Need help building from the pros

Is a high compression B18C the smart thing to do?

  • Definatley

    Votes: 6 85.7%

  • No way

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Yeah but there may be problems

    Votes: 1 14.3%

  • No, can get better specs for less a different route

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Total voters
    7

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Burrows_M

Burrows_M

New Member
I need some help building my motor to what I want. I know the basics but that's about it. I'm getting ready to drop a B18C in my 99 ek and I want to go all motor. So far all I know what to get is my block bored out +2.5, ITR pistons 83mm, 12.5:1, a new head, P&P the head and get tuned. I have a buddy who did all this to his teg but he said there was a lot of other shit he added to maintian such high compression. As of right now he's really busy building his race car and I can never get a hold of him to find out what the other things were. If you could help me with a build I would really appreciate it.

I forgot to add that this is a complete swap. Comes with 35k miles on the motor, LSD tranny, ECU, axles and half shaft, shift linkage, motor mounts, alternator, starter, clutch, flywheel, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, fuel rail, injectors, distributor, engine harness, and all sensors. What I would like to do is instead of put the motor in and then have to replace stuff with aftermarket crap, I just want to replace it all when the motor is out of the car and drop in a fully built motor.
 
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I'm not sure how high I plan on goin, the only piston set higher that I saw I think was 13.8:1 but i'm not sure
 
No higher on stock pistons and pump gas...pushing it as is IMO

Need a fuel pump, re-programmed ecu, dyno tune

Building a motor....you tearing it apart and putting it together yourself? If not....double your swap cost to have it stripped, honed, cleaned, and assembled.

Look into different theories/opinions on breaking motors in too
 
A friend and I are building it ourselves yeah. Just havin a machine shop bore out the block and port and polish. And as for the gas I would be using the 94 octane with a bottle of 180 octane booster in every tank
 
Be careful on who is port and polishing your head. Most machine shops are V8 Mentality and they will most likely rob horsepower. Leave it stock or find someone reputable....port flow is my recomindation.
 
So i decided to keep my stock bore size, gonna go with the Wiseco 81mm 13:1 ITR pistons
 
How is that for clearance issues between valves and piston?

If piston size went down and compression went up....longer rod? Or crank? Stroked?

Thats why I ask about the clearance issues. I'm not too knowledgable on such build specs.

Is 81mm stock? Shouldn't you go a little bigger? (81.5mm) so cylinder is honed out and straight as an arrow? Maybe I've been told wrong.

There's OEM piston size and OEM re-build piston size...this I know.
 
I'm not exactly sure about the clearance. But yeah 81mm is stock bore size. Lol im lost on this basically, all I know is ive seen them built like this and I know they work. I'm trying to get some help from people who know from experience, so I think im as lost as you
 
Make sure its a re-build size piston.....that way the cylinder is like brand new after its honed...rather then putting in a new piston tnat is the same size as the old one and cylinder walls that are use to a worn out piston/ring combo

Call an Acura dealership and ask them about the brand new re-build pistons that Honda offers.
 
This is all I know about the pistons i'm looking at

Bore mm/inch - 81.00/3.189
Stroke - 3.433
Rod Length - 5.433
Comp. Hight - 1.181
Head cc's - 41.5
Dome Dish - 8.25
Gasket Thinkness - .028
Deck Clearance - .017-
Block Hight - 8.347
Compression Ratio - 13:1
Pin Diameter - .827

That's about it lol
 
I don't think you'll be at 13:1 compression but I could be wrong. If the pistons are OEM size...no way its 13:1
 
It's not a stock piston. I'm shooting for high compression, the stock compression is like 11:1 and i'm looking at different pistons right now that range from 12.5:1 to 13.8:1
 
In my opinion when you go over 12.5:1 thats pushing it for longevity. You wouldn't see 250,000-300,000 miles out of the motor. But I don't know my shit, It's just the way I see it.
 
Ok guys, i'm gonna have to re word this to try and get answers. I have a 99 EK and I plan on doing a JDM B18C1 swap. I'm looking for a set up that can put up good numbers (200+ whp) and still be reliable for a daily driver on pump gas.
 
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