Need Some Suggestions

[chamaco77]

Ok guys I have installed everything got the VTEC wired up and everything. I start the car........the CEL turns on and the car runs rough almost as if it has a misfire, but my plugs wires etc. are new. I pulled the code 2 long blinks and 2 short blinks. Code 22 VTEC oil pressure switch unplugged or faulty. I haven't switched out the switch yet but I just wanted to know if the switch is indeed bad would the car run like crap. My thought was if the switch was no good then the VTEC wouldn't work but the car would still drive normally. Am I wrong for assuming this????
Any help would be appreciated.
I used my old harness and my old dizzy. Can you guys verify the firing order is 1-3-4-2.

 

[tab]

is this a known good motor?

 

[chamaco77]

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is this a known good motor?

From what I understand yes.
I got it from a junkyard but it was compression tested and leak down tested. I didn't pull the oil pan to check the bottom end but I did yank the valve cover off to do the gasket and everything looked nice and clean up there nothing out of the ordinary. The t-belt and everything behind the t-belt cover looks great, no leaks or weird noises. Do I know for sure it's a good motor, the answer to that would be no. But I did get it from a reputable company who also is on e-bay and has excellent feedback. I didn't buy it off of ebay I just know they have an account up there.
I think buy using my old harness and old dizzy, I may have done something wrong. I also noticed that my old dizzy and the one that came with the engine have the no.1 cylinder in a different spot. The f22b1 if you were looking at the dizzy from the passenger side of the car has no.1 in the lower left of the cap. My f22b2 had it in the lower right of the cap. However when I installed the old dizzy and brought the motor to TDC it pointed to the lower right. So the key that meshes with the cam on the both dizzy's must be clocked differently. But I don't think that's the problem.
I thought I may have a timing issue but when I loosened the dizzy bolts and tried adjusting it, it didn't make a difference on how the car ran.
The only difference I find that I didn't make any change to was the O2 sensor. My old one has more wires on it then the new one. The B1 has I think 3 wires and my B2 had 4. Would that cause the car to act up, even if it did wouldn't it give me a code for that?
I'm willing to try anything guys so please any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Like I said the car is only throwing that code 22 nothing else.

 

[tab]

ok, check your easy stuff first.

Timing. 1-3-4-2 counterclockwise if I remember right.

Cam timing. At TDC, the cam arrow should be in perfect line with the crankshaft mark and perpendicular to the valve cover deck.

Get the right O2 sensor.

Code 22 is VTEC Oil Pressure Switch. This should be considered at a later time, unless you believe the engine to be junk and have bad oil pressure. Just make sure that everything is wired properly for now.

 

[chamaco77]

Quoted post[/post]]
ok, check your easy stuff first.

Timing. 1-3-4-2 counterclockwise if I remember right.

Cam timing. At TDC, the cam arrow should be in perfect line with the crankshaft mark and perpendicular to the valve cover deck.

Get the right O2 sensor.

Code 22 is VTEC Oil Pressure Switch. This should be considered at a later time, unless you believe the engine to be junk and have bad oil pressure. Just make sure that everything is wired properly for now.

OK here we go.....
1. The firing order is correct, (the dizzy spins clockwise, the crank spins counter)
2. I fouled the plugs on start up so I put new plugs in and advanced the timing
3. The car ran fine until it got to temperature, then it started surging up and down
4. I pulled the throttle body removed the rear plate and made sure the mechanical adjustment screw was all the way in, it wasn't so I bottomed it out and put the throttle body back on. No Change
5. Car keeps surging when its up to temp. So I can't set the timing with it surging the way it is.
Can it be my IAC valve. I priced it new at $200 which I don't have a problem paying but I need to know for sure because no one takes returns on electric parts.
6. The CEL turned out to be a connection came loose when I put my airbox tube in, fixed the connection and now there is no light, but I also don't have VTEC because of my timing and idling issue.
7. Would a bad IAC valve trip a CEL if it were no good, can the valve be bad with no light.

 

[TeamUrbanChaos]

im not to sure what u exactacly mean by surging ..is it idling at very high RPM's or is it fluctuating up and down??? if you car is fluctuating in RPM's up and down at idle, that sounds like your Throttle Position Sensor is bad. wha your describing is what happens when the TPS isnt giving a accurate reading or is bad. this WILL also cause you VTEC to not work becuase you car uses this sensor to determine what precentage of of the throttle is open. im also assuming that since your VTEC isnt working, your rev limiter is somewhat lower as well now correct?? since youve taken off you throttle body already i assume you already know where the TPS is located. id try to replace that and see if your "surging" stops. you also might have a vaccum leak somewhere. that would also cause poor idle. what i would do is:

take your intake off so you can see the throttle body and with the car on, put your hand in front of the throttle body and cover the whole opening so it gets no air. if you did this right and you have no vaccum leaks, the car should stall right away. if it begins to diesil ( kind of bog and seems like it wants to stay on) then id say you have a leak somewhere.

as far as your code 22, im not too sure about that. maybe you just have a bad sensor. cant really tell

your iac valve dosent register a code on the ECU so i dont know if that would play a role in your no VTEC problem. but there is a way to check that tho. its in my haynes manual and its very easy. ill get back 2 u later with it

 

[chamaco77]

Quoted post[/post]]
im not to sure what u exactacly mean by surging ..is it idling at very high RPM's or is it fluctuating up and down??? if you car is fluctuating in RPM's up and down at idle, that sounds like your Throttle Position Sensor is bad. wha your describing is what happens when the TPS isnt giving a accurate reading or is bad. this WILL also cause you VTEC to not work becuase you car uses this sensor to determine what precentage of of the throttle is open. im also assuming that since your VTEC isnt working, your rev limiter is somewhat lower as well now correct?? since youve taken off you throttle body already i assume you already know where the TPS is located. id try to replace that and see if your "surging" stops. you also might have a vaccum leak somewhere. that would also cause poor idle. what i would do is:

take your intake off so you can see the throttle body and with the car on, put your hand in front of the throttle body and cover the whole opening so it gets no air. if you did this right and you have no vaccum leaks, the car should stall right away. if it begins to diesil ( kind of bog and seems like it wants to stay on) then id say you have a leak somewhere.

as far as your code 22, im not too sure about that. maybe you just have a bad sensor. cant really tell

your iac valve dosent register a code on the ECU so i dont know if that would play a role in your no VTEC problem. but there is a way to check that tho. its in my haynes manual and its very easy. ill get back 2 u later with it

I'll definitely try taking the intake tube off and cover up the opening to see if it stalls immediately, I corrected the code 22 problem that is no longer an issue, if you can get me that procedure to check the IAC I would greatly appreciate it, I don't think it's the TPS because I've tried 2 different Throttle bodies and neither one of them have triggered the CEL. Thanks for the valuable info, I can't thank you guys enough.
And by surging I did mean the RPM's go up and down like you desribed.

 

[chamaco77]

Update:
No vacuum leaks, put my hand over the throttle body and the car cut off instantly.
Thanks for all the help and info so far guys, but if you have anymore suggestions please don't hesitate to say something.

 

[tab]

The IAC is code 14.

 

[chamaco77]

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The IAC is code 14.

OK well the IAC didn't turn on the light but I replaced it anyway and the problem is totally gone, so today I'm gonna set the timing, and change my plugs because I think I may have fouled them. I'll let you guys know what happens.
Thanks again for all of your help
I wish you guys were local so I can buy you all a