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92egcivicls

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whats up name is steve,new to honda scence.i just bought a 92eg hatch with a b18b1 ls swap.has only intake and exhaust and a chipped ecm.
the rear of the hatch is guted no rear seats,tray or seatbelts.also the front doors have been gutted,no glass,window gear,etc. it will be getting lexan soon,the car has ac and a sunroof so im not sweating attaching the lexan to the doors.
what times should i expect with this setup? i beleive the old owner ran a 15flat before the weight reduction,and tuned ecm.
is mid 14s possible? with some bolt on's? like header,pully.
also will a b18 header for a integra line up to my catback exhaust on the civic?
i plan on spraying this motor later on once i have a replacment one here.
it is a DD,but not for long..
 
asking what times to expect out of a car is irrelevant, there are so many variables that contribute to eta that there is NO WAY to give you an estimate of how YOU can drive your car.
Another thing, WHY would you reduce the weight of your vehicle to effectively run on a drag strip yet leave the a/c hooked up???? if you are trying to cut time off your eta then you should have tossed the entire a/c system FIRST, pump, lines, freon, evaporator, condenser, relays and wiring weigh almost 120lbs, throw in the fact that even if you don't have your a/c on your still have 1 extra pulley and tensioner pulling about 5 crank hp.
you're going to be lucky to run less than a 14.5 unless you have a really aggressive tune and the best exhaust and intake you can find. O yah, and a professional driver behind the wheel.

The b18 header should line right up to your catback, well to your cat. just make sure the flange is facing the right way where the header meets the cat.
 
i can drive it,lol.im not asking for a 1 tenth dead on answer just a close guesstimate of what the car could pull assuming i can drive,wich i can.
ive been down the track litteraly hundreds of times,from a 11 sec monte carlo rwd,to a fwd saturn on spray.
but the hatch feels alot more quicker then a 15 flat.it chirps 3rd gear every time.
i didnt build the car i bought it with ac,it will get removed later on when i get a new DD to retire the hatch to track only.the gear/track assys were shot for the windows when i got the car,i just pulled them out.for weight since they werent working and glass was just sitting in the doors.and thats the reason for the lexan before removing the ac,i can live with the lexan windows being screwed on as long as i still have ac.when im not driving as a DD the ac will go,as with just about everything else that is not needed to get it down the track decently quick
 
high 14's if you can drive like you say, but a honda also is NOT a monte carlo OR a saturn.
you can get low 14's on a 50-75 shot until you roast the engine, unless you're running wet.
continue with the weight reduction and literally take everything off the car and you could run 13s
 
lol thats not what i wanted to hear:(
so that being said..since i already have a b swapped in.
i would be better of getting rid of the ls motor,and getting a vtec b16 or b18c
and i could re-use my trans and axles.
just have to swap harnees,motor,and ecm right?
the times would get much better then right?..im looking for 12s when its said and done with spray.
any thoughts on the best way to reach that goal withoug going completly broke?
 
lol thats not what i wanted to hear:(
so that being said..since i already have a b swapped in.
i would be better of getting rid of the ls motor,and getting a vtec b16 or b18c
and i could re-use my trans and axles.
just have to swap harnees,motor,and ecm right?
the times would get much better then right?..im looking for 12s when its said and done with spray.
any thoughts on the best way to reach that goal withoug going completly broke?

Keep the LS and boost it. That would probably be the cheapest way to get to the 12 second range...
 
or you could use your hopes and dreams...
the only way to get a honda to do twelves or less it to own your own engine shop or spend alot of money.
unless you buy it running twelves.
 
A K20 or H22 with all the bolt-ons and some good tuning might be able to manage 12s in a very stripped-down Civic hatchback...
 
but the lowest price i have seen for a k20 or h22 and trans is like $1500 and then the mounts and depending if your car has the right ecu and the time it takes.
 
Right, I didn't say it would be cheap, but just rather that's one possible route to running 12s in a Honda without boosting or building the shit out of an engine...
 
well i need some help,lol...from the looks of the motor it appears obd2<valve cover> and the ecm says p75,how do i know if im obd1 or 2?
i think its been swapped to obd1,but whats the easiest way to tell?
and if i can get it to 14.5 n./a i should easily be in the 13s on a 75 shot.
i gained a full second on every vechile ive sprayed a 75shot.i could live with mid 13/s:)
i walked my buddys high 14sec 3.8 rivera with upgraded pully on the s/c bye about 2 car lenghts from the line,then he just stayed their till he let off,when he realized he wasnt getting anywhere.
probably would have been closer for him from a roll.
 
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that is true brutal, youll prob run a 14 with a h22 in a hatch just gut it, a buddy of mine from pennsylvania has one and all he did was get crower cams and adjustable gears and tuned it right and he is running high 12 low 13
 
there are a few ways to tell
engine will say b18b instead of b18a
b18a is obd 1 (and 0)
b18b is obd2
distributor on obd2 has 1 plug while obd1 has 2 plugs
oil pump housing will have a crank sensor on obd2, cranks sensor is built into distributor on obd1
it really doesn;t matter as long as you have the engine harness on the b18, it will plug into your car with little or no modification, plugs are the same,
p75 can be either obd1 or 2, if it plugs directly into your car then it;s obd1, if its got a jumper harness or doesn't plu into your car then it's obd2
 
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