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NOS instaled HELP

Discussion in 'Forced Induction' started by formby, Jun 9, 2005.

  1. formby

    formby learning in progress

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    so my friends and i finished the install last night..

    with a 60 shot the car felt awsome...for now the nos is hooked up to a WOT switch ....and we did not use a relay just a fuse on the arming switch.......i plan on spraying an 75-80 shot on the street and 100 at the track with better gas
    even with the pyr chip and the dizzy in the middle the car felt sweet and i did not hear any detonation
    .. i spent most of the night doing 3rd gear pulls on 417 (toll road) i killed an rx8 that was laughing at me...(my car is not painted and i have a fart can for now) he honked 3 times, and i proceeded to kill him by 3-4 cars may be more....then he did a fly by....lol

    i used the bkr7e plugs, i had no gapper so i left them like that (is that bad?????)
    what should i put the dizzy timing at?
    what should i set the plug gap at?.28 or.30
    should i put a relay?
    is it bad to spray in 1st?
    what do you guys think?

    i ask because this is the first time i own a car with nos...BTW i have stock ls rods with arp bolts, and cast.20 over ls pistons...full msd 6a system with blaste3 coil....with racing fuel i think i'll get away with a 100 shot
     
  2. wannaberacer

    wannaberacer Member

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    what kind of setup are you running? (wet or dry?) What are you doing with fuel?What are you doing with timing? And did you check your plugs after spraying a couple times?(that will really tell you if you detonated)

    If you can't get to a dyno shop, my best recomendation is to retard the timing overall about 2 degrees with a 70shot(some may say 1, but I like to be conservative). Also, you'll need to hook up a wideband and see what you're doing for fuel ratios...
     
  3. formby

    formby learning in progress

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    its a wet set up....and the fuel psi is @ 55@wot...and fresh plugs are usually white, but ill check tonight when i gap them....and as far as timing the rule of thumb is 2deg for every 50hp...but my concern is the ecu timing ....i have no idea how changing the timing on the dizzy changes the timing in the ecu....and your right about the WB i need a plx m300



    also...my car turned off after i sprayed...and another time the oil light flickered ...wtf could that be....my honda tech (coggin honda) friend told me his did that to and not to worry
     
  4. formby

    formby learning in progress

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    everytime i run the nos; the car turns off and the oil, and battery light turn on..or the check engine light comes on and off....the timing on dizzy is @ full retard....no smoke..... acceleration is quiet and fast


    i checked the plugs and the groung strap was clean on all the plugs but spots and debris were evident on the ceramic of 3 plugs....not alot
     
  5. formby

    formby learning in progress

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    does any one have any suggestions or am i the only one that has experienced these symptoms...

    any comments are welcome.....
     
  6. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    well i heard something about unboosted engines having problems with wet systems because the intake has too much fuel and then starves the engine of air...lemmie do some research and see if i can find that article again.


    EDIT*
    I found the article, and this is what my statement came from
    http://www.rpmoutlet.com/nosprod.htm
    The second type of nitrous kit is the "wet" style of kit. These kits include carburetor plate systems and add nitrous and fuel at the same time and place, normally 3-4" ahead of the throttle body for fuel injected applications or just under the carburetor as with plate systems. This type of system will make the upper intake wet with fuel. These systems are best used with intakes designed for wet flow and turbo/supercharged applications. The reason for this being the fact that fuel flows differently than air or nitrous. This difference in flow characteristics can lead to distribution problems and, in some cases, intake backfires. Intakes designed for wet flow (such as with carburetors) cause much less separation of the nitrous/air, and fuel. Because modern fuel injection intakes are designed to flow air only, they have tighter turns and a more compact design as a result. Thus, they generally do not make good candidates for wet flow nitrous systems.
     
  7. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    Well theres your answer...replace your rods...then fix the problem....id saying throwing a rod would be worse than the N20 not working
     
  8. formby

    formby learning in progress

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    yeah i will....but since the motor is turning off...could io go up in nitrous and keep the same fuel jet
    example....i have a 75 and 80 shot...could i use the 80 nos jet with the 75 fuel jet?....my idle fuel psi is 55 and 60psi with the fpr diconected
     
  9. driver1

    driver1 Senior Member

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    i would not suggest doing this simply for the fact that u run the risk of running lean and detonating
     
  10. formby

    formby learning in progress

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    yeah i was thinking about that...but the engine is runing realy rich....so until i can take it to the dyno i think ill try that....i dont think the difference between 75&80 is that much....and the extra fuel has to compensate....
     
  11. driver1

    driver1 Senior Member

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    call the nitrous manufacturer that u bought the kit from they will be abl to tell you the difference in the fuel jets
     
  12. formby

    formby learning in progress

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  13. driver1

    driver1 Senior Member

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    i would say around there....unless the nitrous manufacturer says to up it, i would leave it right around stock...being its a wet kit it shouldnt really need much more than stock to run safely. Otherwise where yuour running a smaller fuel jet than normal maybe i would up it 5-8 psi or so.

    edit: stock fp must be around 35-38 for that motor isnt it? im not sure, as im nto real fimiliar with them
     
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