OBD2 B18C1 into 94 Civic

[psychofreke]

I just need someone to verify that I have all of my info right so that it all goes smoothly.

I have a 1994 Civic DX and a 1996 GSR. I want to put the GSR motor into the civic. So... drop the motor into the civic using the Integra mounts and the harness is plug and play. I need OBD1 Injectors (although I don't quite understand how this makes a difference). I'll also need an OBD1 GSR ECU. I can use the same dizzy and Alternator(?) provided that I rewire the dizzy using the OBD2-1 wire conversion table and rewire the alternator to work with the obd1 plug. Next I need to run wires for the VTEC Oil Pressure, VTEC solenoid, knock sensor, IAB solenoid and IAB 12V+ from the harness to the ecu and pin them as follows:

VTEC Oil Pressure @ D6
Knock Sensor @ D3
VTEC Solenoid @ A4
IAB Solenoid move from A20 to A17
IAB 12+V @ spliced to wire @ A25, yel/blk wire @ injectors, or the IACV
Is this all right? Is there too much? Am I missing something? This will be my first swap and I want to make sure everything goes smoothly.

Here is the info I found on rewiring the alternator to work. I'm also not sure how accurate it is.
Rewire an OBD2 Alternator to OBD1 Alternator.

I just want to make sure I do this right, because it's a lot to take in and I'm thinking it would only take wiring one thing wrong to screw up everything.
While I'm at it I was thinking about doing the following:
Use this page to convert to Power Steering
OEM Cruise Control Swap
Install GSR cluster into 92-95 Civic
DIY Solid Mounts (I'm not sure about this one...)
And swap over the Integra braking system (although I'm not sure if it will work since the DX is non-ABS. I don't care about the ABS, I just want the 4 wheel disc... need to find a good DIY for this one).

 

[JDM B20 EH2]

The rear motor mount is your only prob I see. You have to mix and match to get them to line up correctly. If I can recall right you have to use the civic frame side mount and the gsr motor side mount, there is also a way to use the b16 Del Sol mount. I cant remember exactly. You dont want to use a ODB2 engine harness on a OBD1 car. I did this when doin a swap in the past and the car always ran rich(could have been the OBD2 inj but not sure). Once I swapped back to to the OBD1 harness and sensors I didnt have this problem anymore.

IAB 12v source I would go from pin 25

Depending on where you are at I will trade you my complete power steering setup for you non power rack. You just pay for me to ship to you and I will pay for shipping tome if you want. Works great just dont want power steering and new turbo wont clear.

No do not do the DIY solid mounts like that. If you do it all at once the inside never hardens and if you do it layer by layer and let it dry it takes a few weeks to do. There is a urethane kit you can buy from Fastenal that you mix and pour. You can get different hardnesses.

I also have the cruise control parts I believe.

If you are doing cluster I would do whole dash. It is a PTA though. Have done it in the past.

As far as ABS it dont matter for a rear disk conversion as you are not going to wire it up. Just unbolt the shocks from the body in the rear, the toe bars, that lca's from the body, the sway bar from body and suspension, and unbolt the radius arms from the body drop the complete suspension as a unit on each side. I have done this as way easier that way. I think you have to use the gsr e-brake cable.

I would use a 1g dizzy with a 1g harness.

If you need feel free to call or txt me at 501-545-7452. I did almost the same thing when I swapped my suspension and b20/itr tranny from my wrecked teg to my hatch.

If you follow the link in my sig below it shows what I did then.