P28 vs P30

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P7ank5te7

New Member
Ok, this will probably be a very stupid question here, and Yes, I have used the search function but didn't see quite what I was looking for. So heres what I'm trying to understand, is the difference between them, only the bin on the chip it self, otherwise they are pretty much the same thing? I was wondering because I was looking at getting another P28 for my Ex, and maybe start getting into tuning at some point, but getting it like ready. I would like to start out small and just learn how to do data logging just to see what I will see and start with the basics and get to learn that first then, move on from there once I've mastered somewhat, reading the data logs. HaHa. But the reason I ask is because in the near future would like to get a B16A and if possible reuse the ecu and hopefully by that time I would be knowledgeable enough on how to burn a new chip and convert it from a D16Z6 over if it would work. Make sense? My other question is, my friend has a 97 EX with the D16Y8 and if we were to get the crossover cable would a P28 work for his car also since the motor is almost the same just OBD-2 vs OBD-1? All input is much appreciated, and any criticism won't be shut down because it helps me understand both sides. But like I said, I would like to start small and learn how to read the data log and look and see what you would normally see, so I can get an idea of what I need to watch for. Thanks -Gary
 
yea, you can chip both the p28 and p30 fairly easy.. but if you're running a single cam now i'd just use the p28 because the chip and be modified to run the b16..
 
I understand that, and thanks for the quick response. The thing I'm looking at is getting an addition p28 to mod so i have my original to sell with the motor if i sell or use as a back up if i change something once i get into the tuning, burner and romulator. I just want to learn to data log right now and see what shows there when it needs to be adjusted. Would this be a wise choice? And again would the P28 work in place of the P2P with a converter to do the same thing there also, and such, because the person I know would like to go to turbo also?
 
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no need to sell it with the motor.. keep it..
 
Haha.. Ok. Still since I'm soo new to it, would it be wise to have a stock one and then the one that as my back up? This way if I mess something up I have my back up right there? I'm just looking to see what I should do, also what would you recommend for data log for now? I know everyone recommends Crome Pro, which is what I am def. looking at getting when I get better rather than going right into the trial and error stage and burning/blowing something up.
 
Any suggestions for software to data log? I was thinking on getting the HondaLog from moates.net. Is that a wise choice to start with for data logging or is there more recommended?-Gary
 
regular version of Chrome is free and it kicks ass still
 
I thought that it doesn't data log, maybe I missed it. But when I was looking at the features that come with it versus Pro and looking at program it self, because I downloaded it to get a feel for it, I didn't see it. But I'll look at it again. What about the logger? Good or Bad? -Gary
 
Use Freelog to datalog :) I've never used the Crome logger, but Pro features an "autotune" thing that automatically changes the fuel settings so that it's at the target A/F you set.

Hondalog is a hardware that connects the ECU to the PC, so it's needed along with a software of your choise(Freelog, Crome datalogging, etc.). Go for it; better than the "Nokia" Datalog cable.

Also, the P30 has the knock sensor circuit. Most of the features in Crome were designed around the P30 basemap, but they'll work in a P28 with knock sensor disabled.
 
Ok, so I'll check out the Freelog program. I'm probably going to go with the Crome Pro after I learn what I'm looking at. LoL. The features of Crome Pro are the part that make it worth the 150 bucks. So you think the Hondalog should suit the proper purpose and is pretty decent for being only 30-35 bucks depending on what one you get(housed or unhoused)? Lastly about this, is it wise for me get a Wide Band O2? Like will the ecu read that and it be better for the data logging and tuning? Or would it only cause more problems? -Gary
 
Ok. So you recommend just an external gauge. I take it from that, now this may sound stupid but right, I can't use a Wide band on my ecu, correct?
 
it has 2 plugs, one goes into the engine harness and one goes to the digital gauge thing i'm guessing.. so you'll know what your A/F ratios are while driving, so basically it shows you what your ecu is reading

by going into the engine harness, it hooks up to the ecu
 
I understand the harness.. I just didn't notice that it had the ability, me and my ignorance on reading.. haha. I think the cable we see tho, is the the cable between the sensor and gauge and you have to wire it in. Not sure tho, but appreciate the info. Anything else I should know before going to do this? -Gary
 
Get the housed Hondalong unless you want to cut the ECU case and make the Hondalog a port on the case. The wideband o2 sensor reads a/f ratios more accurately. A narrowband just reads lean, stoich, or rich. A wideband reads "16.7, 14.6, 12.1, 10, etc.) In other words, instead of just saying rich or lean, a wideband tells you exactly what the A/F ratio is.

Most wideband o2's have analog outs that allow you to hook it up to the ECU and to other accessories. You don't need a display at all because it'll be hard to keep track of by memory. Instead, when you datalog, it'll show up on there instead. I myself am using the Innovate LC-1, cheap(compared to others, at $200 msrp, or around $170 on ebay), and it works great. I'm also using Freelog and Crome too. For my datalog cable, I'm using the serial port with a Max232 breadboard(the Hondalog is pretty much the same thing but uses USB). The LC-1 uses serial port too, but since I only have one I have that hooked up to a serial->usb adapter.
 
So all I really need to do is go to a local Autozone or Advance Auto,etc and by a wide band o2 and wire the linear side to where my actual O2 would go to the ecu. Then just use the data log tool which should be able to pick it up and be better than just using a standard O2? Is that what I understand? I knew the wide band was for more accurate readings but ya.
 
lc-1 freelog

How would one get freelog to read the input from the lc-1
 
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