PLEASE HELP IM SOOOO CONFUSED d16y8 to b16a2 swap

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tvsethi

New Member
OK here it goes, i have a really good friend that is a great honda mechanic and i dont really know diddilly squat, i spun the bearings in my 97 civic ex, w a 1.6 vtec d16y8 and i needed a swap so he got me a b16a2 from a 00 civic si, because i already have a si front cap, we put everything in just fine but some how i dont know what the hell im worried about but we used the d series harness, with a few modifications, such as extending the o2 sensor wires and a few more, he said that we totally bi pass the cranking angle sensor plug and sensor it self, but i am sceptical, he pulled out a read out on bi passing it all together so both are just hanging, the wiring harness fit everything fine, but when it came to the ends to plug into the ecu he soldered 2 wires together for from the harness to make it bipass that crank sensor, HERE IS WHERE IM CONFUSED LIKE CRAZY, if nothing is plugged into the sensor how does it read out !?!?! next the b16 ecu has a spot for only 2 plugs instead of three, so he said there is a jumper harness to adapt to the b16 ecu which converts the 3 plug to a 2 plug for a direct fit to the b16 ecu, but then he said that actually the d16 ecu is a 1.6 l and so is the b16 the only difference is the twin overhead cam, so like i said im clue less, so we still put the d16 ecu back into the civic and plugged up all three plugs, somehow im not believing this is the right way, what do i do ? am i wrong? GIVE ME HELPPPPP
 
OK here it goes, i have a really good friend that is a great honda mechanic and i dont really know diddilly squat, i spun the bearings in my 97 civic ex, w a 1.6 vtec d16y8 and i needed a swap so he got me a b16a2 from a 00 civic si, because i already have a si front cap, we put everything in just fine but some how i dont know what the hell im worried about but we used the d series harness, with a few modifications, such as extending the o2 sensor wires and a few more, he said that we totally bi pass the cranking angle sensor plug and sensor it self, but i am sceptical, he pulled out a read out on bi passing it all together so both are just hanging, the wiring harness fit everything fine, but when it came to the ends to plug into the ecu he soldered 2 wires together for from the harness to make it bipass that crank sensor, HERE IS WHERE IM CONFUSED LIKE CRAZY, if nothing is plugged into the sensor how does it read out !?!?! next the b16 ecu has a spot for only 2 plugs instead of three, so he said there is a jumper harness to adapt to the b16 ecu which converts the 3 plug to a 2 plug for a direct fit to the b16 ecu, but then he said that actually the d16 ecu is a 1.6 l and so is the b16 the only difference is the twin overhead cam, so like i said im clue less, so we still put the d16 ecu back into the civic and plugged up all three plugs, somehow im not believing this is the right way, what do i do ? am i wrong? GIVE ME HELPPPPP

try this and get back to me
This article describes how to trick a U.S. OBD2a or OBD2b ecu into thinking a CKF sensor is wired in when there actually is no CKF sensor on the engine.

What is the CKF sensor?
The CKF is the Crank Fluctuation Sensor.
On all 96+ (OBD2) Honda/Acura vehicles, this sensor is integrated onto the oil pump.
(CKF images soon)

This trick is mainly aimed to help hybriders who are using a U.S. OBD2a/b ecu in their vehicle, but their motors are lacking a CKF sensor. For example, running an JDM OBD2 engine in a US 96+ vehicle but retaining the US OBD2 ecu. For those that don't know, when using a US OBD2 ecu and the CKF sensor is not wired in, the engine runs like total crap. This trick basically taps the CKF into the CKP signal.

This wire trick will save you money (around $300) and headaches!


PROCEDURE
  1. Please refer to the ecu pin out page respective to your OBD2 type and take note of the CKF pin locations:

    or,
    OBD2a pin out schematics

    OBD2b pin out schematics
  2. Get 4 Scotch-lock/tap splicers
    Sometimes dubbed 'quick splice', these can be real life savers.
    Get yourself 2 of these bad boys and a pair of pliers for the squeezing-splicing portion of the job.

    tapsplice.jpg
  3. Locate ECU pins

    OBD2a Users:
    This mod requires you to quick splice a total of 4 wires (2 wires per quick splice).
    Locate the blue ecu plug "C":

    obd2a_01.jpg


    Now locate pinout C1 (CKFP) and C4 (CYPP) ; using the pliers quick-splice these two wires together as shown:

    obd2a_02.jpg


    obd2a_03.jpg


    Then locate pin C11 (CKFM) and C14 (CYPM) and quick-splice these two wires together as shown:

    obd2a_04.jpg


    obd2a_05.jpg


    That's it!
    Your finished OBD2a quick-splice job should look something like this:
    obd2a_06.jpg


    OBD2b Users:
    This mod requires you to quick splice a total of 4 wires (2 wires per quick splice).
    Locate the blue ecu plug "C":

    obd2b_01.jpg


    Now locate pinout C22 (CKFP) and C29 (CYPP) ; using the pliers quick-splice these two wires together as shown:

    obd2b_02.jpg


    obd2b_03.jpg


    Then locate pin C30 (CYPM) and C31 (CKFM); quick-splice these two wires together as shown:

    obd2b_04.jpg


    obd2b_05.jpg


    That's it!
    Your finished OBD2b quick-splice job should look something like this:

    obd2b_06.jpg
 
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Blanco, YB...you guys should write a book. I learn more and more reading from you two than anything else it seems. Thanks for being there for everyone and teaching us what you know.
 
OMG yblegal your the PIMP, lol and thanks alot blanco but this wire trick will get rid of the cfs but what about the ecu, why did we plug these wires back into the d16 ecu ? since it is three wires what do i do about the b16 ecu i have both, and what difference will it make with the ecu from the d16, we drove it maybe 5 miles or so as a test run but it started running hot and the lower radiator hose was cold, and the only warm part was along the thermostat but it was too late, so i am going to put a thermostat and some nick and nack work today
 
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