Questions about engine swap

[AHHVTEC]

right

 

[Dasfinc]

You can do a budget turbo for VERY cheap. Get an internally waste-gated Turbo off a Volvo/Saab/ or pickup a DSM turbo, Get some decent fuel management and fp/injectors, and have some fun.

 

[delsolsir2]

B series is the way to go. I would recommend thinking about a frankenstein swap if you want serious power. The B16 is great and loud as hell, but dosent like forced induction (I have a turbo B16A SIR2 in a 93 del sol). I should have bought a CRV B20 block and slapped on a GSR B18C5 head. If you dont know that much about the swap though a B16 install into your vehicle is allot more straight forward. good luck getting 400hp though

 

[dtob]

YEAH Frankenstein. I'm actually in the middle of an ls/vtec right now. Can't wait to finish it up and take it out. I think mainly because its my dd and at the moment i'm riding my bike to work. Thankfully its only 2km away. Sorry for the jack but ya ls/vtec or crvtec is the way to go for big hp numbers. Just make sure you get some good rod bolts. Non vtec dohc engines have 1mm dia smaller bolts. ARP is a good upgrade.

 

[93civicracer]

good luck getting 400hp though

You say that like it's really hard with a b16a..I thought it would be as easy as throwing in a bolt-on turbo, catback exhaust, and beefing up internals like forged pistons/rods polish/porting and just turn up the boost and deliver more fuel. Not necessarily easy, but I think you know what I mean. Really I'd be happy with 250-300 hp so I can shut those stock mustang punks up. 160 hp from b16a, 200-250 with a turbo kit, and then maybe 300ish with a 75 shot of nitrous .

 

[dtob]

200-250 with a turbo kit is pretty reasonable but with forged internals 400 would be achievable. On 20-25psi with a t04 turbo but its still possible. Although 400hp on a light ass car like a civic is kind of pointless though because it'll be spinning all the way through 3rd. Won't get any kind of traction until 4th gear. 300 is more than enough.

 

[93civicracer]

300 is enough for me, 200-250 is definately a huge step up from the 120 I'm running right now and will satisfy me for sure . Even if I did achieve 400 hp, I could still adjust the boost and tone it down to 250 for daily use then adjust boost for 400 and put on better traction tires for racing, right?

 

[93civicracer]

Well unfortunately I have to fix the engine I have now before I can even think about swapping it. Maybe someone here can help tell me what's wrong.

I went to start it today and it turns over..but it just keeps turning over. Tried jumping it, tried push-starting it and almost aaaalllllmost got it but I don't know why it's doing this. I threw in 2 gallons of premium 92 octane gas so that's not it. My guess is its the alternator, anyone know for sure?

I at least took advantage of it and got a ride to autozone to recharge the air filter, put more oil in it, and bought duralast spark plugs and wires lol.

 

[93civicracer]

I have to fix my current engine now..it won't start. It just keeps turning over but won't start. I tried push-starting and jumping but neither worked I ALMOST got it with a push-start but at least I took the chance to go out and put more oil in it, put 2 gallons of 92 octane gas (so that's not it), recharge my intake filter, and put in new duralast spark plugs and wires. I think its the alternator but I'm not sure.

 

[delsolsir2]

its your distributor most likely, they are very common to fail. pull a plug, leave the tip in the ignition wire and ground the threads to a nut on the engine. have an assistant turn it over and see if you have spark. if you dont, most likely will be distributor. it is not you alternator, with the plug pulled and engine attempted to start you should smell gas inside the chamber or hear the pump turn on when the key is switched on. if you dont have spark, dont bother replacing the the coil it is never the problem, ive had one module blow, but it is very rare. more common than not the hall effects sensor in the distributor has shit the bed causing you to replace the whole unit. There will be two types of distributors when shopping for a new one TD42-u and TD44-u you most likely have the 42 as it seems all my B series heads take the 44. keep your core till you can compare to whatever one you buy.

 

[93civicracer]

Well just when I thought it would be an easy fix...I was able to jump start it the other day and it started knocking...My homey told me I have rotating lifters and said I should replace the timing belt and put lucas into my oil to hold me over until I can get my engine swap.

It sounds shitty like knocking and when I went to rev it it sounded weeeaaaak I mean the tone was lower and weaker. I'm gonna take it to pepboys and get it checked out and probably a tune up would be a good idea.