right motor a 99 ek hatch

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K-V-NO

Member
i'm planning a swap for my 99 ek hatch and goin all motor and would like to get in the low 15's high 14's in the quarter mile. which motor would get me there and which motor would be easier to swap in.
 
the b16 and b20 are all straight forward swaps requiring just the 99+ civic SI rear tranny mount and top driverside bracket and either an integra or 99+ civic si shiftlinkage and axles. The h22 requires either hasport or placeracing mounts and special axles. and several other stuff, with the b16 you will be very pleased with basic boltons, and wil be in the 15's easy and possibly high 14's with some good tires and driving. Unless you want to go b20/vtec it requires a lil motor attention to the build but will be very pleasing at the end, expect a high 13 with a b20/vtec with mild boltons and pistons...

i personally went with an ls/vtec but for you, i recommend a b16 for its simplicity and power.. -paul
 
Originally posted by tnsxsear@Oct 17 2003, 05:25 PM
the b16 and b20 are all straight forward swaps requiring just the 99+ civic SI rear tranny mount and top driverside bracket and either an integra or 99+ civic si shiftlinkage and axles. The h22 requires either hasport or placeracing mounts and special axles. and several other stuff, with the b16 you will be very pleased with basic boltons, and wil be in the 15's easy and possibly high 14's with some good tires and driving. Unless you want to go b20/vtec it requires a lil motor attention to the build but will be very pleasing at the end, expect a high 13 with a b20/vtec with mild boltons and pistons...

i personally went with an ls/vtec but for you, i recommend a b16 for its simplicity and power.. -paul

thanks alot and good looking out, i was leanin towards the basic b16 swap
 
would anyone know the quarter mile time w/ a b20(non v-tec) in a ek hatch, and would i have any problems in the long run w/ b20v-tec.
 
just a stock b20 with say an civic si s4c tranny will prolly yield a mid-low 15. and if you do a b20/vtec the right way, it will last as long as you take care of it. regular oil chages and check ups.
 
what would i need to get to build a b20v-tec the correct way and is there any other tranny i can use besides a s4c tranny?
 
well upgrading the pistons and rods to get a good compression if going allmotor, anywhere from 11-12.5:1 .. use some ARP headstuds, gsr oil/waterpump and timing belt, getting a block girdle.. little things. as for tranny you can use any b-series one..-paul
 
Originally posted by tnsxsear@Oct 17 2003, 07:41 PM
well upgrading the pistons and rods to get a good compression if going allmotor, anywhere from 11-12.5:1 .. use some ARP headstuds, gsr oil/waterpump and timing belt, getting a block girdle.. little things. as for tranny you can use any b-series one..-paul

good lookin out paul
 
I cant stress a good oil pump enough on ls/B20-vtec motors, The non-vtec botom ends uualy run slightly loser tolerances so when the oil is needed to activate vtec the botom end can get starved of oil, the gsr should be ok but i'de go toda/spoon ect... just for peace of mind.
 
Originally posted by EGVortechGSR@Oct 17 2003, 04:19 PM
I cant stress a good oil pump enough on ls/B20-vtec motors, The non-vtec botom ends uualy run slightly loser tolerances so when the oil is needed to activate vtec the botom end can get starved of oil, the gsr should be ok but i'de go toda/spoon ect... just for peace of mind.

true, a gsr is adequate for daily/weekend racing, but if you need more oil, opt for a pro drive oil pump gear..
 
does anyone know the price on a b20(non vtec) swap with a s4c tranny, and also the price range on buildin a b20vtec swap with a s4c tranny.
 
K-V-NO - I am doing that exact swap on my 99 DX Hatchback and maybe I can give you a little help. What I did was buy a VTEC head first, then get just the b20 block. In my opinion there is really no sense in buying a complete b20 motor then buy a VTEC head to swap on. If you have some time and want to save a bit of money buy a piece at a time until you can put the whole build together, you will save money in the long run. As for me, I bought a 2000 SiR (US Si) B16A2 head for $500 Cdn (complete head). Now Im looking to get the b20 block and then search for a transmission. I cant tell you exactly what its going to cost me in total, but make sure you budget for all the small parts nessesary to properly complete the swap. Hope this helped a little and good luck!
P.S. I will post pics when mines complete.:)
 
why not just modd your d motor if you are just looking at a low 15. My 97 dx runs a 15.3 and these are the mods
cold air intake
dc header
custom 2.5 in exhaust no cat but it has a resonator
msd wires
ngk plugs
and some light 15" wheels wraped in falken azenis
centerforce clutch
and to top it off a lovley delsol si trany or any s20 trans will do

now if you gut the rear interior and add a wet 75 shot to it you sould posiably run a 14.2 i did but your motor will not last long with a good oll 75 just to warn you
 
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