Can't/will not drive a wagon or hatch. Just have no appeal whatsoever for me.
So I bought an '09 TSX and unbought it in one weekend
- Thread starter totalburnout
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nope...just one Z is leaving right now ...the yellow one. But I have a guy that sounds like he runs a restoration shop coming to look at parts, and I might be able to snag something from him for the other two.... lets just say...what I get will toss everyone here and on the other forums for a spin...Something soo unlike me...
/thread jack.
I still say Outback
probably a v8 in the CRX and the ew4 turbo motor into the Z.
George777
^^ Likes Bewbies
what I get will toss everyone here and on the other forums for a spin...Something soo unlike me...
If you get something craptastic like a Camaro or Mustang, so help me God I will gouge out your eyes and skull-fuck you.
No offense intended towards anyone that has/likes those cars. I happen to enjoy driving those cars, I just don't see Clayton purchasing one for any logical reason.
/threadjack
Back on topic... New Mazda 6... http://www.mazdausa.com/MusaWeb/displayPage.action?pageParameter=mazda6
public transportation is pretty cheap too.
Pretty sure public transportation won't meet my needs to visit five to six clients a day, across four different towns.
Put money down on a 2005.5 Audi A4 2.0T w/ sport package, xenon lights, cold weather pacakge, premium audio package. The car is brilliant red with ebony interior and has 22,000 miles. The dealer wouldn't move off of the $24,000 price tag so I bought it at $24k @ 3.9% financing for 3 years.
I'm not sure if I'm going to buy the APR chip or the GIAC chip.
http://www.cars.com/go/search/detai...onal&paId=286656516&recnum=38&leadExists=true
I'm not sure if I'm going to buy the APR chip or the GIAC chip.
http://www.cars.com/go/search/detai...onal&paId=286656516&recnum=38&leadExists=true
EGProject
YEEEEAAHHHHH
Good buy, you should be happy, provided the car was taken care of. I work on Audis day to day, and the 02-05.5's are near the top of the list reliability wise.
Make sure you know the cars history, and plan on purchasing an extended warranty (Honda Easycare, Fidelity, Audi Assure). Since it's a 2005.5 (1.8T, not 2.0), be weary of the T-belt on that car, and get it serviced RELIGIOUSLY. Once you start skimping on services, things tend to snowball, and before you know it you are out $4k on one repair order.
One good thing is - the B6 A4 1.8T's are far superior to the 06+ A4's with the 2.0s.
Build quality is great, and the 6-spd is great for highway cruising. 6th gear around 75mph can still net you at least 28mpg.
We don't usually see any in for anything crazy, and if you can drive stick halfway decent - clutches can last 140k+ miles. Brakes can be a bit pricey, but if you do it yourself it's not bad. Keep an eye on the axle seals going into the trans, and the rearend. Some interior pieces have been known to peel and the paint chips away (ESP button, light switch, climate control). Coils tend to go on the 1.8T's and when one coil goes, I suggest replacing all 4 with the new style coils (red top, instead of black).
And for the life of the turbo on the 1.8T, try to change the oil every 5k. Recommended interval is 10k - which almost everyone goes by - but sludge will eventually start to accumulate and fuck up your oil drain lines and breather system.
Make sure you know the cars history, and plan on purchasing an extended warranty (Honda Easycare, Fidelity, Audi Assure). Since it's a 2005.5 (1.8T, not 2.0), be weary of the T-belt on that car, and get it serviced RELIGIOUSLY. Once you start skimping on services, things tend to snowball, and before you know it you are out $4k on one repair order.
One good thing is - the B6 A4 1.8T's are far superior to the 06+ A4's with the 2.0s.
Build quality is great, and the 6-spd is great for highway cruising. 6th gear around 75mph can still net you at least 28mpg.
We don't usually see any in for anything crazy, and if you can drive stick halfway decent - clutches can last 140k+ miles. Brakes can be a bit pricey, but if you do it yourself it's not bad. Keep an eye on the axle seals going into the trans, and the rearend. Some interior pieces have been known to peel and the paint chips away (ESP button, light switch, climate control). Coils tend to go on the 1.8T's and when one coil goes, I suggest replacing all 4 with the new style coils (red top, instead of black).
And for the life of the turbo on the 1.8T, try to change the oil every 5k. Recommended interval is 10k - which almost everyone goes by - but sludge will eventually start to accumulate and fuck up your oil drain lines and breather system.
No-no. Mine is a '05.5 when they started the b7. The 2.0T FSI motor. Its not the newer TSI motor, but it is still the 2.0T.
I used to hate wood interior, now the wood trim in my friend's 328i grew on me. I hate light wood interior, but a black leather interior with deep cherry wood accents looks nice.
Hopefully everything I've read about the 2.0T B7 A4 being light years ahead of the 1.8T B6 is true even though its contradictory to what you just wrote.
EGProject
YEEEEAAHHHHH
Ahhh. theB7 A4.
Well, theres good and theres bad. The good is, that the 2.0L is better on fuel than the 1.8T, and that it has a little more balls. The brakes are much better, and overall the interior is nicer (better buttons, steering wheel controls).
On the other hand, there are a few recals concerning the TFSI 2.0L. The first of which concerns the manifold pressure valve (kind of an active PCV valve). If this fails, you will go through a quart of oil every 1500 miles or so, and you will get the "Oil Min" light on. Theres a TSB out for it, so it will be replaced free of charge if it breaks. Additionally, there is also a hi-pressure switch for the direct injection that will occasionally go bad, but there is also a TSB out there for that as well. The 2.0's also will eat a little oil if you go 10k between oil changes, and drive it hard. Just the nature of the beast. You may need to add 1 qt for every 10k.
Well, good luck - and post some pics when you can.
Well, theres good and theres bad. The good is, that the 2.0L is better on fuel than the 1.8T, and that it has a little more balls. The brakes are much better, and overall the interior is nicer (better buttons, steering wheel controls).
On the other hand, there are a few recals concerning the TFSI 2.0L. The first of which concerns the manifold pressure valve (kind of an active PCV valve). If this fails, you will go through a quart of oil every 1500 miles or so, and you will get the "Oil Min" light on. Theres a TSB out for it, so it will be replaced free of charge if it breaks. Additionally, there is also a hi-pressure switch for the direct injection that will occasionally go bad, but there is also a TSB out there for that as well. The 2.0's also will eat a little oil if you go 10k between oil changes, and drive it hard. Just the nature of the beast. You may need to add 1 qt for every 10k.
Well, good luck - and post some pics when you can.
I was actually just told that the car will eat oil if you go 10k between oil changes by one of the car runners at Audi last night.
I didn't realize that the engines were burners. Oh well, I guess thats what CPO is for and that the oil level sensor may come in handy.
EGProject
YEEEEAAHHHHH
It's all normal for any direct injection motor. Especially a turbo one at that. It happens once and a great while, and if it's down - just add a quart. The min oil light comes one when you are about a quart low, so it's nothing catastrophic - there's still 4 quarts in there. Overall, the 6-spds are good cars. The autos are dogs, and to be honest the shifter feel in a stock B7 is better than a 1.8T B6 A4.
Good luck, and if you have any more questions, I'll try and answer them.
Good luck, and if you have any more questions, I'll try and answer them.
Nice buy man! Thats a good price on that car. I see them going for 27+ with high 20k miles . Now I am jealous and want my audi back! Definately do the GIAC tune though. It's tha phun! If you can stay off the turbo you should be able to get some good gas mileage from it.
Yeah, I'm just not sure what tune I should go for - the GIAC or APR. I don't want to void the CPO warranty and want the flash to deliver smooth power and lots of torque while remaining hidden.
VWvortex.com is fairly awful at providing insight on the GIAC vs APR.
VWvortex.com is fairly awful at providing insight on the GIAC vs APR.
