supercharged d16a6, na b16a1, or na d16z6?

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

3.8kg is pretty light, but you can get stuff almost as light without the Spoon price. You might not want to run such a light wheel on a daily driver either- I'll bet it won't hold up too well on the street.

Don't go to Wiseco's site- read up on ImportBuilders' site or shoot them an email. Wiseco makes MUCH more than what they list on their catalog. You can also use JDM DOHC ZC pistons- you can get a set for about $100, and they'll bring your compression right up to 12.0:1.

I really don't know which valves to recommend over the Skunk2s. Go search on your own and find some. All I know is that I keep hearing negative things about the Skunk2 valves, so I'd stay away from them.

Skip the pulleys unless they're just lightweight. Underdrives tend to cause problems. If you underdrive your power steering, A/C or alternator, the pumps and generator won't be working within their OEM specification unless you're revving up high. Maybe if you're going to be on the track all the time they would be nice, but on a daily driver you could cause damage to your car's systems. If you're looking at replacing the crank pulley, you really want to keep the OEM pulley because you don't want to toss the harmonic dampener.

If you're in Canada, the D16Z6 should be very easy to find. Just start calling junkyards in your area. The Z6 was available in all of the 92-95 Civic EX models in the US, and I think those are the same as your Civic Si in Canada. The D16Y8 could also be an option for you. They were in the 96-00 EX here, and your 96-00 Si. As for rewiring, you can run all your original non-OBD systems on either engine- just reuse all your old sensors and distributor, then wire in a VTEC controller to take care of the VTEC crossover and the fuel management. As far as shift linkages, axles and mount kits- all together those will typically cost you about $800 US, and to me, that's not just "a few hundred dollars more".

Both the D16Z6 and the JDM DOHC ZC have similar levels of potential. They both make about the same amount of power and torque in stock form. The major difference between the two is obviously the number of cams. The DOHC ZC is really nice with a turbo and no internal mods- most people can squeeze 200-220whp out of one without going inside to change anything. The same goes with the D16Z6- they typically make 200-250whp under boost with the proper setup and no internal modifications.

The DOHC ZC is easier to tune sometimes because you can independently advance and retard the cams, but all the aftermerket cams for the SOHC VTEC help take care of that. As it stands, the aftermarket for the D16Z6 is much larger, since the engine (and the D16Y8) was available in the US. You can swap in all sorts of OEM and aftermarket pistons to raise compression, get tons of different camshafts, buy valvetrain components etc. With the JDM DOHC ZC, it's very difficult to find parts for it. There are maybe 2 manufacturers that make cams for it- and even then it's almost always a custom order- nobody makes cam gears for it anymore, and there aren't any OEM pistons that can drop in to raise compression. The engine was last available in 1995- 1991 in any kind of decent quantity (the non-OBD version that you would want too) at all, and it was NEVER available in the US. I don't think you could get it in Canada either. Regardless, it is a good engine- and there are sites/forums out there dedicated solely to supporting it, but I would choose a SOHC VTEC over the DOHC ZC if you're planning on modding the engine at all. It's much easier.

The geometry of the DOHC ZC and the D16 engines are the same- all are 75mm bore by 90mm stroke. The pistons and rods are interchangeable between the D16 and DOHC ZC engines.

And you know- if you spent a lot of time reading up on the forums and using the search feature, most of your questions would have already been answered.
 
thanks for all the great replies to his questions Cal, but I have one related to this thread what is a reasonable hp# to look for when doing all of the mods you suggested on the z6.
 
160-170whp possibly? Maybe more? It all depends on the tuning. I don't know what kind of gasoline he'll be able to get, what kind of compression he'll be running, or what kind of fuel management he'll want to use. Assuming perfect tuning and 93 octane pump gas, plus high compression and lightweight pistons/rods, I don't see why 170whp or more wouldn't be possible. People on D-Series.org have already broken 160whp on pump gas with a similar setup, and that's also with heavy DOHC ZC cast pistons. With lighter forged pistons/rods and even higher compression, you can get even higher power numbers.
 
One quick question. The jdm ZC SOHC VTEC engine that was on 92-95 civics in japan, will aftermarket D16Z6 parts fit on the ZC Sohc vtec.

At the UR site they said all the accessory pulleys are stock size and the crank pulley can come lightweight or lightweight and underdrived. but what's a harmonic dampener.
 
They should- they're the same engine. Just remember that a ZC isn't a ZC unless it actually says "ZC" on the block.
 
Thanks for all the help Cal, i don't think i have any other questions, but that may change, thanks anyways.
 
if the D16A6 has the same bore and stroke as the D16z6 couldn't i just replace the d16a6 head with a d16z6 and then buy the vtec controller.

I know there are plenty of sites that show how to do a mini-me but i've only seen sites where they suggest using the crx dx bottom end, so i was wondering about the d16a6 bottom end.
 
Yes, you can use the Z6 head on the A6 block. You'll have slightly better performance than just dropping a complete Z6 engine, because your compression will be up a little bit. There are plenty of sites out there with information about making a mini-me with an A6 block and Z6 head- just keep searching.
 
This may be a stupid question, and i did try to find an answer on this site, but didn't find anything really definitive.

I was wondering if it would be possible to mate the z6 head to a d17a bottom end (i think that's the right term) or atleast swap the z6 or a6 crank for a d17a crank and/or rods if i'd need them.

Also if you bored out the a6 block about how much more displacement could you get while staying safe.

And if i did the mini-me setup with the a6 block and z6 head could i still use the same cam, cam gear, jg cylinder head, intake manifold, and valvetrain that i would have if i had swapped in a d16z6 engine. And if i went with a lightweight crank pulley would i buy it for a a6 or for a z6. Also would i buy a header for a a6 or a z6 (are the exhaust and intake ports the same).
 
I don't know about mating to the D17... but you can use the D17 crank in a D16 block if you pick the right pistons and rods. Read up on all the D series deck heights, rod lengths, piston compression heights and strokes and you'll understand what you need to run a D17 crank in a D16 block.

I wouldn't bore the D16 out to more than 76mm while using the stock sleeve.

If you use the Z6 head you can buy any parts for the Z6 head- it's still the same head, right? Treat the engine as a Z6 for everything above the head gasket.

I don't know about the crank pulley, but if there is a difference, match it to your block. A6 block = A6 pulley. Just stick with the stock one though.

For the header, they mate up the same way- but depending on how your chassis is set up, you might want to buy the A6 header. Different manufacturers make headers different ways to clear things like lower cross members on the CRX.
 
Back
Top