troubleshooting the hatch's problems...

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posol

RETIRED
Well, as most of you daily readers know- my hatch died last week, and forced me to buy an STi :p so, i put the hatch up for sale.

I've gotten no serious offers on the thing, so I started doing some thinking today while out for a whip with neonmike as my co-driver/naviagtor, and wildbill/W tearing up the streets in the bmw (damn that guy's fast....... on bald snows. That ball-set on ebay really helped :p )
Anyway, here's the link to the old thread if you haven't read it last week-

https://hondaswap.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=51917

So, i'm brain storming with mike...

Here's what happened. It died/wouldn't start that morning. hoof it to work. come home. work on it.
i ended up swapping the dizzy from the b16 on the sol onto the gsr in the hatch. boom, started right up. took it around the block. came home, shut it off, went to bed.

Now, it was cold out that night.. 15-20-ish and snowy.
Honestly, i doubt the car ever got to open-loop temp.

next morning, i go to work- starts right up. half way to work (about 2miles or so) it just dies on me. I coast into a gas station, get towed home, walk to work again. pretty much said fuck it at this point, borrowed a car for the rest of the week, and bought the sti on saturday.

Now, here's what i'm thinking.

About the place where the car died, is usually where i start getting heat. hrm... open loop temp is reached.
when that happens, pop goes the ignitor or the coil (i haven't tested to see which it is yet)

what happens when the car reaches temp? it starts reading the o2 sensor for the mixture. What wires through the distributor wiring harnees? Some of the o2 sensor wires.

hrm.

thoughts? opinions? ideas?
 
looking in my helms, none of the wires from the o2 go directly to the distributor. they go to the ecu. but the ecu still will change timing based on the o2 reading. have you taken apart the ecu's to see whats fucking up on them? id rip them apart and find out the peice of them thats failing.
 
he was poppin the fuel pump fuse. And yes the wiring does trace through the distributer for the o2 sensor.
 
yeah, there are no fuses being popped ths time though, and the way it shuts off is different. it's unrelated to the melting of 2 wires together i think :p
 
Originally posted by neonmike@Feb 28 2005, 07:53 AM
he was poppin the fuel pump fuse. And yes the wiring does trace through the distributer for the o2 sensor.
[post=467055]Quoted post[/post]​

then that might be the problem. i dont think its supposed to go through the distributor. my helms has them being seperate, and my gsr isnt like that. in fact my o2 sensor is wired completely outside the harness, and directly to the ecu. it runs flawless.
 
well, bypass it B- If that's the problem, then cutting the wiring from the ECU to the 02 sensor now should get rid of the short, wherever it is

then wire the 02 straight from the ECU and see what happens? I mean idk, it seems unlikely, but then again, who knows-

Actually, pull the loom off the harness back there if you can B, and make sure none of the solder/heatshrink connections came undone, as I can halfway remember having to add some length to the 02 sensor wires because they didn't reach


remember Ian, this isn't a GSR harness- This is a d16z6 harness that I lengthened and whatnot to fit
 
yea i know but the wiring for obd1 shouldnt change that. the wires just shouldnt be going through the distributor.
 
the hatch lives.......

muhhhahahaha

:)


culprit: coil
 
question - will it last or will it burn the coil again brian! - wait and see- drive the hatch and keep sti miles down lol !
 
i think its good now.

bill took it out on a beat run. i stayed at the house with a tow strap and cell phone handy :D

he was gone for 10 min and i could hear him the whole time (nothing like banging the rev'er in 4th on public neighborhood roads. lol)

the car was DEF warmed up and then some.
 
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