vtec or cams

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Ive never seen a torque loss from going to the vtec head. Maybe if you still had the b16 sissy cams vs. a stage 2 in the other head.
 
Gaining only 4hp from the vtec head!! Doesnt sound like you set it up right. Especially if you bent all of your valves. You probably didnt have much if any tuning either.
 
i got head work done with cams on my b18a1 and spanked a JDM ITR....and thats on the real. ask me, i'll tell you how:D
 
I bet he had a b16 or a GSR tranny...
 
nope, still running the stock b18a1 tranny....click on the link or call Bill Gude. He will set you up with your goal wheather it be all motor or turbo charged, vtec or not......he made me a believer. 11:1:1 compression and still stock bottom end
 
boostin4fun said:
Ive never seen a torque loss from going to the vtec head. Maybe if you still had the b16 sissy cams vs. a stage 2 in the other head.
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It is actually a GSR head with stock cams, and my tuner is one of the best in Southern California..... And it was a LS head that I bent my valves in with Crower Stage 2 cams, I now have the LS/VTEC with a stock GSR head, and it does feel slower, even though it is a basemap on my Hondata. I figure it's a waste of money right now to tune
I will wait until I build the GSR head. Oh and as far as not setting it up right..... I think it would be hard
to set it up wrong. The head goes on only one way and you run an oil line oh and a VTEC line to the ECU for the secondaries since it's a GSR head...... Pretty simple to me.
 
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integraslut78 said:
It is actually a GSR head with stock cams, and my tuner is one of the best in Southern California..... And it was a LS head that I bent my valves in with Crower Stage 2 cams, I now have the LS/VTEC with a stock GSR head, and it does feel slower, even though it is a basemap on my Hondata. I figure it's a waste of money right now to tune
I will wait until I build the GSR head. Oh and as far as not setting it up right..... I think it would be hard
to set it up wrong. The head goes on only one way and you run an oil line oh and a VTEC line to the ECU for the secondaries since it's a GSR head...... Pretty simple to me.
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Yeah, you could have used the factory springs with stage 2 cams that could cause problems. You admit that you are using a base map when your other setup was probably tuned out all the way. So I wouldnt say anything negative about using the vtec head untill you tune it out.
 
integraslut78 said:
I had Crower Stage 2 cams in my LS and then went to a LS/VTEC after I bent 14 of my 16 valves. The LS was alot torquier (if thats a word) I think I put down 146hp and something like 122tq. Then I went to a LS/VTEC setup and went up to 150hp but alot less torque maybe like 115tq. It just depends what you want hp sells cars and torque wins races.
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Right here you are talking about the power differences you had between the heads, you mean to tell me you went to the dyno to get power and torque numbers and didnt do any tuning?? That doesnt make alot of sense to strap your car on and make 1 pull for nothing.
 
The only reason why I thought it wasnt possibly set up right is because you destroyed one head. There is many things you can do wrong besides bolting on a head. Such as timing the cams with the crank, which done incorrectly can lead to a bunch of bent valves. Dont take it personal, I dont know much about the previous setup you had im just making my point.:)
 
boostin4fun said:
The only reason why I thought it wasnt possibly set up right is because you destroyed one head. There is many things you can do wrong besides bolting on a head. Such as timing the cams with the crank, which done incorrectly can lead to a bunch of bent valves. Dont take it personal, I dont know much about the previous setup you had im just making my point.:)
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Nah no worries mang. I don't argue with people online, its not worth it. Yeah I am just going to wait to tune it until I build my GSR head, I figured there was no point on a stock LS/VTEC. You know what I mean.... kind of a waste of money plus I have another car for my daily driver. :)
 
ok so could i get more performance just beefing up my b18a like switching to stage 2 cams with springs, exhaust, ECU, intake... if i did go vtec i would want to get the whole thing and not just the head which is sounding pretty expensive. i guess the real question is... is it possible to make it better than a vtec without boosting it
 
click here: High Performance by Gude

pnp head, 3 angle high compression valve grind, port matched intake mani, ported throttle body, cams and an ecu to bring it up to 55hp at the wheels

you get 11:1:1 compression with a stock bottom end

the headwork is truly awesome, even the valve guides that stick into the runners are removed.
 
basically its a pull off your whole top end and ecu and they will do everything for you at $1250.00. if you want send and add'l $500.00 and they will send you a complete head package if you dont want any down time to your car. keep in mind that whatever you send is what you will get back.

you get a complete head package from the throttle body to the cams. i recommend the gorilla cams, but you will need the dual valve springs. if you want, get the head package with the gorilla cams and throw in some ITR pistons and run it at 28 degrees overall timing and you can hit low 13's - high 12's all motor non vtec.
 
NOTE: what is Vtec cam right ??? 3rd cam k good for one lobe bigger.cam for non vtec would be bigger than hmmmmm b16 (ctr or (itr --- fact of the b18 Ls or Rs is the head more room in the head for better cam springs and retainers the price you can get a head for a B16 --- obd0--- or obd1 spend it on cams for none vtec Vtec kick in is about 4500-----5600 think of it as 1200 kick with cams non vtec, build the crap out of the b18 rs-ls will get the most HP out of the stock motor swaps-some turbo b16's i will get crap for this but its what it is seen and done it. vtec is great for a extra boost at 4500---5600 thats it the boost of the turbo will have to better than 5000 boost to do a thing with power other than 2-5 psi from stock 10.1 or 9.1 cams will help the turbo if you get one, with the set up. Note: inside to out on motor will make more power make sure you know what you want more N/a or none you have to stick with one or you spend more $$$. get your self a honda acura performance book. to learn more.
 
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If your running a B18a, which I assume since its a 93, and emissions are not a problem where you live... then if i were in your place I would build either purchase a Garrett or go t3/04 and keep boost under 15psi. I don't know everything about turbos but I do know if you match them right to how your building your engine, Esp. Honda's B-series you can really make great power. If you kept the boost under 8 psi you can more than likely run it safely from stock internals, personally I would reinforce or resleeve go forged and titanium. Build it strong to last long! You can make good quick power off of 16 and 18's. Turbo is good bang for the buck.
But... Frank setups such as the LS block/ B16 head, B20 block/b16 or 18 head, and the new G23 opens the door for you to have more than just hp and high boost. LSvtec gives you a bit more torque and hp. Over bore and run high compression pistons with near race stage 2 maybe stage 3 cams with a well worked ported head with the valves on a 5 angle back cut and your gonna have a fun car to play with. Or go CRV/vtec and boost it. Figure what you want your car to do and then read and research. You have a lot of options. Im going LSvtec and supercharging it with a JRSC and shooting for 12psi. I live in Cali and its hard having a legal turbo'ed DA9. I wanna stay street and still try to get close to 300 hp. Im having some stuff done to the supercharger and getting my head from Endyne thefirstone.com. My tranny is gonna be either from a GSR or si they might be the same tranny, but I want it rebuilt with an OBX final drive and have the ratios just right for the output of the engine. Im looking into Hytech headers, don't know if i can afford them any time soon. lol
 
Oh god your right old ass thread! god im such a nube!
 
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