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vtec wiring tomorrow

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> BA-BB /CA-CD' started by stickyfusion, Jan 28, 2006.

  1. stickyfusion

    stickyfusion Member

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    Hey ppl. I'm doing a h23/95 prelude si to JDM h22 swap and had a few last minute questions about wiring. First, where is the extra a/c fan switch located on the usdm engine that i have to put on the jdm. Second, how do i get an internal coil distributer cap for the h22, i heard that i can use the cap from a 2000 civic si but i'm not sure. Also is there an internal to external and external to internal distibuter wiring guide on this site? Third, are the vtec solenoid and vtec sensor the only two wires i need to run to the new ecu or is there another, and if my car is already wired for vtec as i hear some are do the wires just go from the ecu to the shock tower connectors? TIA for your replies.
     
  2. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    you have 2 coolant switches. one by the thermostat, the other at the return to the radiator on the front of the block.

    you need a cap from a 97 4cyl VTEC Accord for the internal coil. here is a quick wiring thing for the distributor:

    [​IMG]

    the original is what tab did...i ran the the wire underneath the plug rather than ontop of it. you just take the yellow/black wire that hooks to the coil and splice it into the YELLOW wire on the dizzy.

    My cars knock sensor wasnt wired in, so i had to wire that up, but you can run the the wires from the solenoid and pressure switch straight to the ECU, but most people do it to the shock tower just to keep it clean. Make sure you ground the pressure switch (i think its the pressure switch...its too late to look it up).

    Any more questions, just post.
     
  3. tab

    tab Super Moderator

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    It's easier to go from external to internal than the other way around.

    Look at the picture of my left hand. Connect that red dot to the black/yellow wire at the base of my pinky finger. Done. That's how easy it is to wire external to internal.

    For the fan switch, switch the waterneck on the front of your head. That will add the second swich you are missing in about two minutes, no wiring.

    If the H22 EGR is different(I'm not sure on the H23) : Swap the EGR off of your other motor carefully, and again, no wiring.

    You'll only need to wire two wires. You already have IAB and knock. In fact, your old oil pressure wire becomes the new VTEC oil pressure sensor wire. That leaves the green and blue wires. Your solenoid and switch. Run those to the ECU and ground the black wire.
     
  4. stickyfusion

    stickyfusion Member

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    that was actually a lot easier than I thought it would be. thanks again guys, u guys rock! :thumbsup:
     
  5. stickyfusion

    stickyfusion Member

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    I was thinkin that i might just leave the egr off. I have seen many ppl do it. other than a CEL does it hurt anything it raises detonation temp right? I was just thinking that if i had my TB and head ported and polished i woundnt want all that crud going back in there.
     
  6. mikeislord

    mikeislord Senior Member

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    Well if this is gonna be your daily driver, I would keep the EGR.. Better mpg.
     
  7. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    :werd:

    and as you stated, the egr keeps combustion temps down and prevents engine knock.
     
  8. stickyfusion

    stickyfusion Member

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    all done now but the taillights are stuck on whenever the battery is connected. weird

    anyone know why i cant link to any of the pics in my gallery to put on this page
     
  9. mikeislord

    mikeislord Senior Member

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    Double check your wiring at the ECU. Maybe you messed up a pinout or two. That could explain the taillight issue.
     
  10. tab

    tab Super Moderator

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    nah, you can pull the ECU and still have tail lights. Not related, seperate problem.
     
  11. stickyfusion

    stickyfusion Member

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    its actually the brake lights and i'm still tryin to figure it out. also i cant turn the key to start the car the rotating bezel or what ever you call it is locked up. it will only turn if u jiggle it, and even then it takes 5 mins. How much is a new ignition lock or do i just need a part inside it?

    edit :
    it feels kinda like its accidentally activating the steering wheel lock even though the whell hasnt been turned
     
  12. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    wierd....the swap wouldnt have effected your ignition or tail lights in any way. I dunno what the hell is goin on in your garage.
     
  13. tab

    tab Super Moderator

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    :werd:

    I'd ask a locksmith about your ignition.

    The brake lights should be a little simpler. I'd start by looking at the switch on the brake pedal area. It's pretty simple. The switches are always reversed. The button is depressed by the pedal in the up position. When you press the brake, the button is allowed to pop out, making the connection. If that button/switch have been moved, then it is possible for the brake lights to stay on all the time without a wiring problem. After that, start testing circuits.

    You could, for testing, disconnect that brake switch wire. If the brake lights go out when you disconnect the wire, you've found your problem. I believe that's a ground switch, no positive juice.
     
  14. stickyfusion

    stickyfusion Member

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    fixed both problems the key just had a sticky pin so i lubed it and the brake light switch was missing the grommet that pushed the switch in so i used a penny

    now the airbag light is stuck on after reactivating the airbags [​IMG]
     
  15. stickyfusion

    stickyfusion Member

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    [​IMG] how do i build a 700 hp motor from my old h23 block...this is gonna be fun. that h23 block is closed deck so thats good. anyone know who makes SUPER strong sleeves. i was thinkin about a build that could handle 30+lbs of boost but im really a noob in the FI arena.
     
  16. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    ive got the build up for that engine on another forum. ill see if i can post it up...id say youd probably get 600HP out of the build, but i havent looked hard enough to find a clutch that will hold that. i do know that it was an T-67 w/ JE 9:1s a manley valvetrain and crower turbo cams. you might need a special ground cam for that kinda power, and Darton sleeves will definitely hold it. You then have to think about suspension upgrades and kissing daily driving ability GOOD BYE!!
     
  17. tab

    tab Super Moderator

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    :werd:

    But start a new thread or PM eachother. That should be in the FI forum.

    cool, It sucks being right all the time :)

    why were the airbags deactivated? There is a sequence that has to be followed to fix airbags, for safety mostly. Ask in the general maintenance section about this.



    How did you end up with this pile? ignition, airbags, taillights, etc. [​IMG] Seems to have a lot of problems.
     
  18. stickyfusion

    stickyfusion Member

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    [/quote]
    How did you end up with this pile? ignition, airbags, taillights, etc. [​IMG] Seems to have a lot of problems.
    [/quote]

    I kinda got the chasis for free :mrgreen:
     
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