What can a stock b16 handle?

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1000$$ for a tune is not only gay but wrong as well. If you are that worried about the money differance then wait till you have the money. Nos and turbo is not cheap! There is so much more that goes with that than just slap a turbo on there or toss some nos on there. And either one you pick will not do what you want it to do imo, unless you build the motor to handle the hp. Then when you get to your hp goal you will say"fuck" i cant get traction. Or i am over heating, or what happend to my cluch or....or....or.... This can go one for hours. You need to build the engine to handle the power then you need to build the drive trane and rest of the car to be able to use the power
 
if you can't afford to do it right, you can't afford to get it fixed when it blows. stop trying to do it half assed. i know it's impossible to teach an 18 year old to have some patience, but wait until you get out of school or get a higher paying job.

I wasn't trying to half-ass anything. I was planning on a stock, rebuilt b16 with a 75-100 shot and a stronger clutch, in a very light chassis, and not spray it until I can drive down to Houston or Dallas to GET A TUNE and a valvetrain upgrade (stainless steel valves, titanium retainers and springs, etc. for longevity), but that's half-assed, right? The goal WAS 300hp but realistically I don't think that'd be possible without a mild bottom-end build even with a tune if it's gonna last, even though the guys I mentioned run theirs untuned (a year now) without problems at those levels I wouldn't do it.

As I said, things changed, but it did look like I was going to get a free car and money for college, making my income all mine except for the low rent I pay and in this case, I could afford it.

But that's half-assed, right? Get off my nuts and find a different youngster who actually needs a lecture ;).
 
Thinking about the endless possibilities for nitrous or turbo on a stock bottom end?... but
the youngster seems to know what is obtainable already...why was the thread started?
Entertainment? I dont think it was knowledge b/c...well...he already knows.

You can run a 75 shot in the intake tube or 80 direct port at 20 a pop (more efficient IMO)
A tune is not totally necessary but you would need to run colder plugs and retard the
timing. And you are still risking throwing a rod.....nitrous can be that psycho bitch that is
so effed in the head but she has the carnal knowledge of Aphrodite...but she'll cut your
balls off while you sleep! lmao

Turbo....build it yourself from new/used parts....always there (except when its hot and
muggy out)....8lbs with the right turbo and you can obtain 230whp while not worried
about a motor you cant afford to fix.
 
I've been saving up for some time for a down payment now, thought I was going to be given a car and get college money, that's all in the works. But now, I have to actually save a little more for that down payment myself and put some more away for college, taking away my ability to afford to do this. Damn didn't you read my last post?

And I don't know what a b16 or gsr will handle, stock, with a good tune. May handle roughly 230whp untuned, sure, but I was looking for the possibilities with a good tune you know like at d-series.org where everyone who's done it will tell you they've made up to Xhp (I think 250whp?) on a stock d16 with a perfect tune.
 
I really dont think you'll get 'dependable' horse power out of a stock B16 internals when trying to obtain 250whp+. Of course we've all heard tails of that elusive catfish that got away and the stock d-series with intake and exhaust that rips down the 1/4 like no ones business. But in reality....with almost every motor we'll all encounter.....250whp out of a 1.6 liter with stock internals....going to the grocery store durting the day and ripping up the back streets at night....it just isn't realistic to think dependability will be found with a good tune. What is involved in a good tune? We are talking about maximizing and tweaking to gain that little extra. Timing issues can be done fairly easily. The adjustments made to air/fuel ratios are important but just to get a good baseline of what is needed and most of that info is avaiable and easy programmed into many Honda ECU's. The tuning involved is just fine adjustments that (IMO) don't have the impact on longevity that you think it does. VTEC engagement at low 4K rpm? Highly, highly overrated. VTEC engagement should be a smooth transition...it isn't a 'turbo boost' like all the car diving video games we all love.

Now 8lbs with a good kit....drive it with confidence and still be able to launch it on street tires without feathering the gas pedal down the track (well...at least after third lol) and not need big injectors and fuel pump. Go more lbs....I suggest the injectors and pump
 
I disagree with your opinion. I think that when you're damn near doubling the power output of any engine, even the tiniest things count. Double the power, double the damage from the tiniest flaw you could've fixed, even though you might not be perfect it's still better.

B16 pushing 20+ psi from a large turbo, several hundred horses, sleeved block with forged internals, etc. the works without any type of tune because it's run by stock settings meant for 160hp on a stock engine that's had every aspect of it internally modified? Might make it half way down the track, tune it well and it'll make it several times. Same goes for a b16 boosting 8 psi from a small turbo, it's still added power which equals more damage from smaller problems, right?

And that's another reason I'd use nitrous. You're running all stock with nothing but bolt-ons when you get your groceries, only need the juice for the strip.

Man it feels like I'm being interrogated and constantly questioned on my knowledge just because I'm 18. So there's NO WAY I'm capable of deciding what's best for my goals, right? LOL
 
I think we differ in opinion of what a tune actually consists of and what is obtained. IMO you will not get some comfort of reliability from a 'perfect tune' unless the air/fuel ratio was way way off and detonation occurred. Especially with a stock bottom end and 8lbs. Now...built from op to bottom and pushing big boy turbo AND high boost....yes a tune can be a huge advantage and (especially with VTEC) the small variance in a tune can make a big difference but for low 200whp.....no not in my opinion.

I come to this site to learn and pas on the info. I've been into Hondas and had the same one by the time you were 2 yrs old ('96) But I do not claim to know all or even enough about modifying...but I know my fair share and have seen enough good/bad attempts at turbo/nitrous. I am simply stating my opinion (like if it was my money being spent)

Yes...you are young and (from what I've read in other posts of yours) easily upset/defensive about your opinions on Hondas.....and sexuality. Some people hate what they fear and fear what they dont understand and they're called bigits.....hopefully you will not wish to be in that category for it is a dysfunctional ride in a circle. Believe it or not....most of us here thought we knew enough at your age too. But we fooled ourselves and found out we really didn't know anything. Dont take offense to stuff so easy and realize that it takes "different strokes" to rule the world (yes I'm old and used to love that show)
 
Upset/defensive about my opinions on Hondas...because I actually try to do the best I can and come up with my opinions on building an engine based on my own efforts and what I've seen done before so I disagreed with your opinion and told you what I thought? Dude when I have an opinion it's because I've thought it out, and by disagreeing with your opinion I've implied that you haven't swayed mine, that's all. Sure you fine tune for the most power, but what good is it without added reliability which is also important to me?

Upset/defensive about opinions on sexuality because I just so happened to be surprised by something somewhat queer which happens to be something that disgusts me and made a few crude posts about it and said what I thought?

Which means that I fear it?? I just plain don't like it lmao and I don't care what you call me.

Seriously, I'm not perfect, I know full well that I don't know everything nor do I claim to, but if I have an opinion on something, it's gonna be known and just because I'm not easily swayed don't think for a second that I'm just trying to know it all. I'm just not the "this guy said that so I changed my mind without even thinking about it" type.
 
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Sure you fine tune for the most power, but what good is it without added reliability which is also important to me?.

Usually by tuning for more power you're also making the car run right. Thus, at least a tad more reliable.

Look dude, these guys are trying to help you out and not get you stranded with a hole in your block.

I'm your age and I have 2 cars. One for work and one to work on and have fun with. Even then I still won't go and spray a shot through either one because I DO NOT have the income to safely build/repair the cars WHEN something happens. I promise something will.

Just do ya a little stock swap and have fun with it. I beat the ass off my LS everyday and it's begging for more. Still plenty fun and it's bone stock in a completely gutted car.

But to stay on topic............. I'd agree with everyone else. 200-250 whp. Just hard to say. Engines are different. Also based on how in depth your rebuild is, etc.
 
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I am saying added reliability will NOT be found in some tune. It will HELP...no doubt but it will not be a cure or anything close. It will just make sure the air/fuel ratio is adjusted to not be too rich or too lean....that it is. Relaiabilty is found in the hardware used....pistons, rods, springs, cuplers, valves, cams....actual hardware....not software. Software adjustments are nice but don't matter when you spin a bearing at 9K rpm's.

So your perfect tune reliability scenerio is non-existent. Can you get 300whp (your original goal) reliability out of a B16? Yes....with a built motor (bottom end is about $1000-1500) Then the head work ($1200-2000) And the injecotrs....fuel pump....aftermarket motor mounts (b/c the OEM aint gonna hang), Beefy axles, LSD trasns, (Those all add to around $2000) And thats without a Turbo system still.....so ($1500-2000)

So thats around roughlt $7000 added up to get your crx to 300whp and be reliable. Actually would be able to get at least 400whp with that set up but I do not recommend trying to get even close to 300whp with a stock B16. Liek you said...double the power...and with a stock block? Wow.....silly.

So yes....we all can aggress a B16 with 300(relaible)whp is possible but at quiet the cost....and thats without the cost of your "miracle tune" (thats my sarcasm as a reply to yours)
 
stupid people

its butt-fucktards like you that give this site a bad name. a 100-shot on a stock motor untuned!!!????? then throw in some rods and tune it without the juice???? $1000 for a tune???? dont need a tune for ""NOS"":confused::confused:

ok paul walker, grab vin diesel, a stock b16a, and a fuckload of "naws":D blast a 100 shot on an untuned motor and ride off into the sunset.....


bitch you dont know facts... incase you didnt know nitrous doesnt constantly run, the power is at your disposal... only when you hit the button or set the micro switch that activates by pushing the pedal to the floorboard does the nitrous engage

IMO if you get a tune using the nitrous YOU HAVE TO CONSTANTLY RUN IT think about it... if you get the tune spraying.... what happens when you are running down the highway and not using it?
Answer: your car runs like ass... as if you had a tubo car runnin 12psi that was fully built without a tune.... dipshit

thats a big part of the reason you need to tune your shit if you run a turbo.... it constantly runs.......... what did you do to become such a high member? go around posting "hey you guys" in people's threads to get your post count up?

if you arent willing to have a simple disagreement or seperate opinons without throwing a fit like a 6 year old child IF you arent right.... dont post....... im 19 years old i wouldnt act like that.... shit
 
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I am saying added reliability will NOT be found in some tune. It will HELP...no doubt but it will not be a cure or anything close. It will just make sure the air/fuel ratio is adjusted to not be too rich or too lean....that it is. Relaiabilty is found in the hardware used....pistons, rods, springs, cuplers, valves, cams....actual hardware....not software. Software adjustments are nice but don't matter when you spin a bearing at 9K rpm's.

So your perfect tune reliability scenerio is non-existent. Can you get 300whp (your original goal) reliability out of a B16? Yes....with a built motor (bottom end is about $1000-1500) Then the head work ($1200-2000) And the injecotrs....fuel pump....aftermarket motor mounts (b/c the OEM aint gonna hang), Beefy axles, LSD trasns, (Those all add to around $2000) And thats without a Turbo system still.....so ($1500-2000)

So thats around roughlt $7000 added up to get your crx to 300whp and be reliable. Actually would be able to get at least 400whp with that set up but I do not recommend trying to get even close to 300whp with a stock B16. Liek you said...double the power...and with a stock block? Wow.....silly.

So yes....we all can aggress a B16 with 300(relaible)whp is possible but at quiet the cost....and thats without the cost of your "miracle tune" (thats my sarcasm as a reply to yours)


I think what CAFROG is trying to say is that a tune will help your motor stay together longer, but its going to give out eventually no matter what. Its about the same as if the motor was stock.... not a thing done to it..... eventually you are gonna rack up miles and are going to have to replace the motor or have it rebuilt. Even with an awsome tune and a built motor, eventually .... shit happens haha:p
 
Usually by tuning for more power you're also making the car run right. Thus, at least a tad more reliable.

Look dude, these guys are trying to help you out and not get you stranded with a hole in your block.

I'm your age and I have 2 cars. One for work and one to work on and have fun with. Even then I still won't go and spray a shot through either one because I DO NOT have the income to safely build/repair the cars WHEN something happens. I promise something will.

Just do ya a little stock swap and have fun with it. I beat the ass off my LS everyday and it's begging for more. Still plenty fun and it's bone stock in a completely gutted car.

But to stay on topic............. I'd agree with everyone else. 200-250 whp. Just hard to say. Engines are different. Also based on how in depth your rebuild is, etc.


I agree i just turned 20 and built my 1st honda a gutted b20 ef with bolt ons fun as hell to drive n cheap to maintain compared to a 300hp b16. and the motor still has a whole lot of potential in it. id say throw u together a nice b16a2 hatch and build on it. Building cars takes time and patience no 18 year old IMO is going to be able to throw together a 300hp beast in a matter of 6 weeks on there own income. what 18yo needs a 300whp Daily Driver ne wayz thats just asking for trouble if u ask me whether its with the law or shit breaking and having to replace it.
 
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