F22A4 in a 90 accord, burned a valve. Took it apart. No hard oil varnish on pistons, they cleaned right up. So I figured the bottom end is ok. Had a valve job for $175, put it back together. Now at 3500rpm (i.e. 80mph on the interstate) it uses 1 qt in 150 miles and smokes when downshifting. Going to 15W-50 and seafoaming didn't help. I am assuming it is the rings and not a bad valve job, what do you think? I will check compression but I don't know how to check whether oil burning is from blowby or from valve guides.
Options:
1) Stay off the interstate
2) Pull the head and do rings and rods. I get NPR rings and pistons for $75 on ebay. This would be complicated by the fact that I had to helicoil one of the bolt holes in the block
3) Somehow do the rings from below? Would have to trust that the crosshatch is ok.
4) Swap in a professional rebuilt short block. ($$$)
5) Used F22A from junkyard from a wreck or with tested compression.
6) F22A JDM.
7) Used/JDM F22B/H22. Motor mounts? Tranny? Wiring? ECU?
I like the option of going with a newer higher HP motor but want to minimize the amount of adapters, rewiring, etc. Seems like the H22 might be more work than I want.
Options:
1) Stay off the interstate
2) Pull the head and do rings and rods. I get NPR rings and pistons for $75 on ebay. This would be complicated by the fact that I had to helicoil one of the bolt holes in the block
3) Somehow do the rings from below? Would have to trust that the crosshatch is ok.
4) Swap in a professional rebuilt short block. ($$$)
5) Used F22A from junkyard from a wreck or with tested compression.
6) F22A JDM.
7) Used/JDM F22B/H22. Motor mounts? Tranny? Wiring? ECU?
I like the option of going with a newer higher HP motor but want to minimize the amount of adapters, rewiring, etc. Seems like the H22 might be more work than I want.