which brand work better.

[Taco15]

Alright i finally got a little money to spend. I want to buy a FPR. The problem is,is that i dont know jack shit about it. I need some advice on which brand to choose.Give me some brand names so i know what to look for.
On another note... i just payed $21.42 for mobil 1 synthetic oil. damn that expensive. I'm used to paying 1.75 for castrol.

thanks guys

 

[nfn15037]

AEMs FPR is quite nice and well constructed, the B&M ones tend to break from what I have dealt with. How come you need a FPR now?

 

[Taco15]

yeah i was just reading someones page and they talked about there B&M taking a shit. Well i got an LS/Vtec on my crx and want to know EVERYTHING thats going on with my car. Also i seem to be running rich.....very rich. but the wierd thing is, it's unstable. Sometimes it smells alot like gas(or is carbonation?) and back fires after every shift. Sometimes it's perfectly fine. No smell no back fire. I plan on gettin autometer temp,water,oil,fp gauges. IM BROKE SO I HAVE TO TAKE IT SLOW.

 

[MikeBergy]

Why don't you just replace it with a new stock one? If I needed an adjustable one, AEM makes good stuff, that'd be my choice.

 

[Taco15]

thanks. so far i'm leaning towards the aem one. Thanks for the input on the stock fpr. i'll check that soon. if indeed its bad i'll rplace it and buy and A/F gauge.

 

[cycloneb18c3]

aem is one of the best ones made. I dont like them ones where you cut your stock one in half.
my old crx had a mallory race firewall mounted one. worked like it was supposed to(no problems)

 

[xj0hnx]

Originally posted by Taco15@Mar 21 2005, 02:29 AM
Also i seem to be running rich.....very rich.

[post=476241]Quoted post[/post]​

Well, before you go spending money on crap you just don't need, you should have it checked out by a shop that can monitor A/F ratios. You go cutting fuel out without seeing what's going on in real time, and you think you're broke now? Wait till you're buying a new motor because you starved yours for fuel.

 

[Taco15]

Originally posted by 92b16vx+Mar 21 2005, 03:51 AM-->

Taco15

@Mar 21 2005, 02:29 AM
Also i seem to be running rich.....very rich.

[post=476241]Quoted post[/post]​

Well, before you go spending money on crap you just don't need, you should have it checked out by a shop that can monitor A/F ratios. You go cutting fuel out without seeing what's going on in real time, and you think you're broke now? Wait till you're buying a new motor because you starved yours for fuel.

[post=476384]Quoted post[/post]​

thanks, so should i buy a A/F gauge first? well i just got off the phone with my mechanic. I 'm takin it in 2 weeks,his wideband is messed up. He's got an auto meter A/F for 55 brand new so i think i might jump on that this Fri....Ohhh and i got a job! Guys thanks for all the input! Thats why i love HS, no problem or question too small.

 

[xj0hnx]

I wouldn't tune off the Autometer. Why? Because while it will give you a rough estimate based on voltage fluctuation (all it really is, is a voltometer, that reads the signal voltage between the o2 and the ECU), it won't be accurate like a true wideband o2 sensor and reader.

 

[Taco15]

what do you mean tune off the auto meter? I though autometer gauges were really good? I'm gonna let my mechanic tune my car with his wideband. I just asked if i could use the autometer to get my readings.

 

[posol]

if you don't have a wideband, you are reading narrow band, which is only CLOSE to accurate at WOT. even then, its a far cry.

hondata.com has a write up on narrowband vs wideband lambda meters. have a read.

IMO, there is no point in getting an adjustable FPR unless you have an injector that REQUIRES more than stock 45-ish psi rail pressure to function proerly.

i ran 860cc injectors off the stock FPR. no problems at all.

lowering your rail pressure to solve a rich condition is asking for more problems.

if you're running rich, the first thing i would do would be to replace the o2 sensor.

 

[Taco15]

Originally posted by pissedoffsol@Mar 21 2005, 11:48 PM
if you don't have a wideband, you are reading narrow band, which is only CLOSE to accurate at WOT. even then, its a far cry.

hondata.com has a write up on narrowband vs wideband lambda meters. have a read.

IMO, there is no point in getting an adjustable FPR unless you have an injector that REQUIRES more than stock 45-ish psi rail pressure to function proerly.

i ran 860cc injectors off the stock FPR. no problems at all.

lowering your rail pressure to solve a rich condition is asking for more problems.

if you're running rich, the first thing i would do would be to replace the o2 sensor.

[post=476859]Quoted post[/post]​

ther is no need to post twice. Do it again and your messag will be deleted. thank you HS management. J/K thanks for the info man i really appreciate it. As soon as my mechanic gets his wideband back he'll take a look at it

 

[hybrid89]

listen to what b said...best advice their is...

 

[Taco15]

just got and offer on a faze A/F gauge. any advice or opinions? 40 bucks is the asking price

 

[formby]

no

 

[Taco15]

Originally posted by formby@Mar 22 2005, 05:32 PM
no

[post=477205]Quoted post[/post]​

ALRIGHT thanks for the input

 

[ripperbone]

Originally posted by Taco15@Mar 22 2005, 03:48 PM
just got and offer on a faze A/F gauge. any advice or opinions? 40 bucks is the asking price

[post=477184]Quoted post[/post]​

faze gauges suck ass.

 

[spydy43]

I would not waste my money on a narrowband a/f gauge period, I would put my money into something else

 

[Taco15]

Originally posted by spydy43@Mar 22 2005, 06:39 PM
I would not waste my money on a narrowband a/f gauge period, I would put my money into something else

[post=477249]Quoted post[/post]​

well god damn! Now i'm being advised to completely stay away from the gauge? shit what am i supposed to use to show how lean and rich? whats your setup, if you have one?

 

[posol]

a narrow band does a light show. thats about it. it shows you whatever the fuck it wants to. lol

you need a wideband.

http://www.plxdevices.com

the m300 is very popular.

and read that hondata article.
http://www.hondata.com/techwidebandtuning.html