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which motor to turbo ?

Discussion in 'Forced Induction' started by vtecturbo, Sep 11, 2004.

  1. vtecturbo

    vtecturbo Junior Member

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    I have a 93 civic hb with a 95 gsr motor that is going down hill.The compression is whey down.I just bought a garrett t3 turbo,hondata with boost control and everything else to turbo my car.My ? is should I just rebuild the bottom end on the gsr or should i buy a b20 block and turbo that.I can get the b20 block for $600.00 and then I can buy the vtec kit to make it work for 300.00.Should i go this route or would it be cheaper to rebuild the gsr, and would the gsr be more reliable then the b20. I want to run 10psi,my horsepower goal is 250 to 300 to the wheels.need someone to help me with good feedback someone who knows what they are talking about.ps if i rebuild the gsr factory parts are going back in
     
  2. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    rebuild the gsr. why use factory parts?

    you're willing to dump 600 on a b20- why not on the gsr as well?
    eagle rods for 325, and some forged pistons for another 350-ish, and you have a pretty damn strong block to play with. getting new bearings will probably be needed as well, if the current ones are shot.

    you already have it, and its WAAAAY stronger than a b20.

    hitting 300 whp off a t3 at 10psi is never going to happen. so just keep that in mind.
     
  3. breed

    breed Senior Member

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    my advice if your gonna go turbo do it right or that gsr will end up in the shitter once again. I had a ls/turbo hatch running the hack and popped it after 6 months. my brother just built his type r with aebs sleeves,je pistons,eagle rods, bored to 84mm. took forever but well worth it.
     
  4. vtecturbo

    vtecturbo Junior Member

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    thanks man .I meant by using factory parts was pistons and rings or should i go with something else.what is youe take on a block gaurd.how much hp will i get from 10psi
     
  5. [Freemantle]

    [Freemantle] Senior Member

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    Psi is meaningless, blockguard is also meaningless.

    A built GSR powerplant flows an incredable amount on the high cam, so using a compressor with a higher Area/Radius is the adviseable thing. A straight T3 housing will not give you what you need. Look into good hybrids, Presicision, and GT-Series turbochargers. They cost a good buck, but your engine is one of the few four-cylinders that can easily spin those compressor wheels.

    Look at me, I've built my engine and done my fuel tuning already. The only actual components I have for the actual turbo setup is my turbo manifold, and that is probably it until I buy my own wideband. Do the buildup right and save your tears. Patience (and a firm faith that I will eventually kick ass) is what makes driving this 155ft/lb "slouch" an okay thing for now. You can afford to wait.
     
  6. breed

    breed Senior Member

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    I don't like block guards. most of the time they are installed incorrectly and hurt you more than helping you. so just skip it.if you want to go turbo definatly do it right. do research, and ask a shit load of questions.
    i ran a 13.5 with the stock lsmotor running the hack but blew it up so it was pointless.
     
  7. NotUrAverage_Si

    NotUrAverage_Si Senior Member

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    What's a turbo? :unsure:












    No for reals though, for the price of the B20 block and the kit to make it VTEC (Are you just talking about a VTEC cylinder head?) you can send your gsr block to be bored, honed and sleeved to a 2.0 litre. You'll need some bigger injectors and a bigger turbo to hit 300whp.
     
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