my EJ Build: Take 2
- Thread starter fionntan
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I got some work done on the engine yesterday. I had a little problem. I must have lost one of the rod nuts when I checked the bearing clearance a couple of weeks ago. I had to order one from the local dealership and it will be there tomorrow. So all the rods are torqued down except the #1 rod. I put on the oil pump, rear main seal, and water pump. I stopped at the water neck because I forgot to clean it up. I cleaned it and painted it to match the engine and put it on this morning.
I ran into a problem tonight. I am trying to install the crank pulley and I got to the part where you install the cog onto the crank using the "key" and I have a different looking cog then what I see in the helms. The helms shows two washers and I only have one. The cog has a flared end. I looked it up on majestics site to see how much it would be to order a second washer and they show an alternative which I believe I have. Now my question is which way does the cog go on. The picture shows it with the flare facing out, but the line for tdc is on the other side. Here is a pic of what I am talking about.
The parts in question are 12 and 13.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catimgs/13s0201_e16.png
The parts in question are 12 and 13.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catimgs/13s0201_e16.png
I also have a question about installing the cams.I am not sure what is top dead center on these cam gears. There are paint marks on one sprocket that line up with the zero on the gear then there are lines etched into two sprockets that are equal distances in both directions from the paint marks.
Do they look like they are set correctly or is TDC when the white marks face each other.
Do they look like they are set correctly or is TDC when the white marks face each other.
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I figured out what marks to follow. I installed my cams and the exhaust cam is pointed at tdc like it should be, but the intake is pointed at the 11 o'clock position. I can turn it to the 12 o'clock, but when I let go it falls back to 11. It looks like the #3 cylinder rocker arms are what is preventing the cam from sitting at tdc. When I install the belt can I just hold the int cam at 12 o'clock? When I adjust the valve clearance will it fix the problem? Or should I take out the cam and try again?
Someone PLEASE help!!!
Someone PLEASE help!!!
I am going to try a couple of things tomorrow and see if I can get the cam to sit properly. If that doesnt work I am just going to roll the cam forward with a wrench while I put the belt on. Its only off by about a 1/4 of an inch and everything spins easily, no binding or grinding. I dont know if thats a bad idea, so if it is let me know please. Anyway here are a few more pics of the progress.
usually when i install the timing belt on my car, it takes two people. i have to have someone hold the intake cam in place, and then i slip the belt on. the way you are doing it is correct.
as for the crank sprocket, hondas come with one of two things:
1)a sprocket like you have with one "built in washer" you could say.
2)a sprocket and two separate washers.
the built in sprocket should be facing towards the oil pump, IIRC.
as for the crank sprocket, hondas come with one of two things:
1)a sprocket like you have with one "built in washer" you could say.
2)a sprocket and two separate washers.
the built in sprocket should be facing towards the oil pump, IIRC.
still dont know what caused thatI got the timing belt on yesterday. When I turn the crank i get some loping resistance. The belt also seems to pull forwards on the cam gears after a couple of turns.The crank sprocket seems to sit to far out. The belt almost hits the back washer. I haven't put the crank pulley on yet, I don't know if that makes a difference.
This pic shows how the belt is leaning towards the block, not even with the rest of the belt.
This one shows how close it is to the sprocket.
I also put on the intake manifold. I dont have the bracket that connects to the engine right there at timing belt. It goes behind the timing cover. Will the one from my d series fit, or do I need to go get on at a junk yard?
This pic shows how the belt is leaning towards the block, not even with the rest of the belt.
This one shows how close it is to the sprocket.
I also put on the intake manifold. I dont have the bracket that connects to the engine right there at timing belt. It goes behind the timing cover. Will the one from my d series fit, or do I need to go get on at a junk yard?
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Ok well the build is going slow for the next two weeks. I have a film that I am working on that has to be done by the 1st. I did however mock up the rest so everyone could get a little taste of what it will look like finished. Do any of you guys have a spare timing gear cover? The plastic piece that goes over the belt and gears. I seem to have misplaced mine, so if you have a spare laying around let me know and I will buy it from you. Anyway here are a few pics.
I picked this up to drive while the coupe is down for the swap. I am planning to start the swap next week. The car is a 93 four door. It is pretty much a piece. The body has a good bit of damage (nothing serious) mainly cosmetic. The engine has an oil leak. The windows are messed up on teh drivers front and pass. rear. It will get me around for a couple of weeks. I will probably fix a couple of things and sell it when I am done with the swap. I will get some better pics once I have cleaned it up.
I pulled the car into the garage yesterday and started getting the engine ready to pull. I got most of the plugs unplugged. I took out the rad and most of the other parts that will be in the way. I checked the high and low lines to the ac before I started and there is no pressure in either line. If there is no pressure then it is safe to take out correct? I want to get rid of it, but I am a little nervous about taking it apart. Here are some pics.
Today I will tackle the BITCH pin.
Today I will tackle the BITCH pin.
sapman1992
New Member
That is one clean looking engine. Nice job so far.
