D16y8 n/a build

I realized today just how many spare parts I have laying around and it just so happens I have a pefectly good head, both manifolds, fuel rail, injectors, a block w/ internals and oil pan. The block needs a rebuild but I decided I would put a little bit of extra money a month into this motor to assemble as a spare motor. It would consist of a d15b7 head, d16y8 block, d15b7 intake manifold w/ tb, d15b7 exhaust manifold. The d15b7 head has already been started to be disassembled and thourghly cleaned and both intake and exhaust runners ported and pollished. After the head is done both manifolds will be port matched to the new runner size of the head. My question to anyone who see's this post is: What head studs will I need? I am guessing I need the z6 timing belt again but I am going to try and see if the extra y8 timing belt I have will work instead.

i wouldn't put that combo together. why? for a running motor? if you're gonna build something, might as well wait a little bit longer and put together something a little nicer. why not try and find a y8 head and put together a complete y8? it'd be a lot easier than trying to mix match a bunch of parts, you could just get everything specifically for the y8. i'm doing an a6/y8 mini me right now and it took me months to get all of the parts i needed because i had to get them from all over the place. that combo isn't really going to make much power at all unless you're planning on boosting it. if you're going n/a, might as well buy or piece together a full y8 or z6. just my opinion though, i'm sure some hondaswap vets will make me feel like an idiot lol. good luck though man

Well I agree I shouldn't just mix and match parts but this is what I have left from building my mini-me. I pretty much have everything but the timing belt, and I might even have that if my y8 belt would work on the setup. I see your point with the no power thing. It probably wouldn't be powerful at all unless under boost conditions, that could be a fun boost setup because I wouldn't really care if I blew up a bunch of spare parts taking up space in my garage ya know? However if you have any clue of how I go through motors you would understand my concern on having a back-up motor assembled and waiting quickly. I threw a rod in my y7 and spun a rod bearing in that y8 block so it would have to be rebuilt anyways. By the way that is only in like 2 years that I have owned my civic. the y8 crapped out in 3 months.

why're you having such bad luck with motors lol? get an a6 bottom end and rebuild it with honda bearings. it'll run you about $200 for all of the right bearings. then just replace the water pump, timing belt, and everything from the head gasket up including arp head studs. use an z6 or y8 head for some power. the z6 head would make a way easier setup. i know y8's are known for oiling problems, maybe it's all of the d16y motors, that's why they've crapped out on you. anyways, i would go with the above setup. do you have a motor right now? if not, i would just put that together as cheaply, but as safely, and best put together as possible and throw it in your car so you can drive it. meanwhile, putting together a cheap build that i listed above that'll be a under $1,000 and will last you years

I have a y8/b7 mini me, a ton of new parts that I have been trying to get running for a while now. I don't know what is up. I am trying to find a new p2p ecu because the one I bought was for an automatic which I didn't know til now. I am running a ported y8 intake manifold, a port matched exhaust manifold, hard wired vtec, w/ a lame short ram a k&n air filter with a relatively stock exhaust. It should be a decent bump in power over the y8 I had without vtec wired.

hold up, a p2p is the actual y8 ecu right? and you're running it in a obd1 car? does it run? you know you could've just ran a p28 with the y8 head? you gotta use a d15b7 distributor from a 92-95 civic lx or dx. it doesn't matter if the distributor is from a vtec car or not, all a distributor does is deliver the spark to each cylinder. is everything working fine?

dude it's an obd-2 car. it is a 98 dx sedan.

haha oh shit my bad i was thinkin it was a eg car. alright nevermind then. is the car running and driving though? i was just reading about obd2a and obd2b, do you have all that figured out?

you'd be a person to ask, i'm not sure which wires are which on the vtec solenoid. i'm converting from obd0 to 1 and have a conversion harness. there's three wires from the harness and three on the solenoid, so that's all good. the wires from the harness say vtec solenoid signal, vtec pressure switch signal, and vtec pressure switch ground. i'm guessing that the vtec solenoid signal wire goes to the green/yellow wire that's by itself. i'm not sure about the other two that're together on the plug but i'm guessing that the red/white wire is the vtec pressure switch signal and the green/black wire is the ground. can you or anybody verify this? thanks

i know i just thread jacked kinda, sorry, just real quick tho. i couldn't find any other info anywhere else. everybody just says run the single wire to d6 on the ecu, etc, etc. that's not what i'm looking for. i just need to know what each of the wires are. thanks

bump. will anybody answer this? or choosing not to because i thread jacked? lol. i apologize but i thought philyphreak could help me out but i'm not getting anything out of him or anybody. feel free to let me know, i'd really appreciate it. thanks everybody

sorry bro. haven't been on in a bit. I can't help you there. I am not good with wiring.

oh okay, thanks though. i posted this in another thread too and nobody's really able to help me with it. i just need to know what the wires are lol. thanks

Well I came into a free wrx td04l turbo. It needs to be rebuilt but it was free so I may end up putting it to use in the civic. I still have a tapped oil pan, I may hit the junkyard and find an hf manifold to customize for the turbo. We will see if I have extra money to put together a kit and money to get it tuned.

my buddy purchased a kit from ssautochrome.com. i know, i know, most people say they're garbage. but he bought the kit with the cast manifold, so no welds are going to break. we've also already replaced the lines with aftermarket steel braided lines, so those should hold up fine. so the only things that can go wrong is the wastegate or turbo itself, and those can be had very easily and are pretty inexpensive if not free. but anyways, yes, you already have the turbo. hit up ssautochrome.com and get yourself a turbo kit for cheap and replace a few things and you're ready to roll.

philyphreak2127 said:

Well I came into a free wrx td04l turbo. It needs to be rebuilt but it was free so I may end up putting it to use in the civic. I still have a tapped oil pan, I may hit the junkyard and find an hf manifold to customize for the turbo. We will see if I have extra money to put together a kit and money to get it tuned.

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Nice. I'm going to use a very similar turbo on my wife's car. Use that one and you'll have really fast spoolup and a really fat torque curve.

That's exactly what I was hoping for. a fast spool. Do you know when these babies hit peak boost? A buddy of mine looked at it, (he is a very good welder), and said he would be happy to help with the manifold, exhaust and anything else I need help with to get the kit together. This will be my first "junkyard" turbo kit so I am kind of excited to see what happens. Hopefully it doesn't end up in a blown motor.

Peak? No clue. I do know that someone was able to make over 190whp with a 13g on a D16Y7 at 12psi, and people have gone as high as 15-17psi on this with a D16 SOHC VTEC.

Alright I was thinking I may need to drop the compression of the motor so I can run pump gas. I think this swap is around a ten to one. I still need to figure out why this thing won't start.

what swap are you referring to? because 10:1 can still run super low octane gas and be fine. but are you speaking of turbo-wise?