JDM EVAP pruge solenoid problem

First off... is there a evap purge control valve on a 1994 jdm gsr. I swapped a 94 jdm gsr into a 94 honda del sol. I was able to use the jdm engine harness so as not to have to rewore the factory one. car starts with no codes nor throws any, to check the CEL light we unplugged the TPS sensor to check the CEL and it threw a code, plugged it back in and no code, so the CEL works. The d series had an evap purge on it, and we cant seem to find the one for the gsr, nor an open plug on the harness. The problem the engine is having is that when it starts it idles at around 2100-2400 and when it hits 2500 RPM it falls on its face (ie it drops to about 1k and then returns to its high idle).

any help would be greatly appreciated.

TIA

any ideas?

alright guys well i eliminated the problem opf the evap solenoid. Just so everyone knows, the jdm gsr obd1 engine DOES NOT have an evap purge. I did however wire it up on the chassis side of the harness to see if the ecu recognized it, and then traced it to the ECU, there isnt even a pin on the ECU for that solenoid. So now if someone comes along with that question it has an answer . Also after meeting up with the owner of the car who i performed the swap for, i found out that his "buddy" had done a terrible job of an auto to manual swap, from what i was told it was done before this man owned the vehicle, but anyway he said the car started jumping idle after they did they auto to manual conversion on his 94 del sol. I personally have only done auto to manual swaps on OBD2 vehicles and i have always jumped the wires at the ECU to disable the lock-up solenoid as well as the other sensors as to trick the ECu to thinking that all is in proper order.
With that being said i started loking for where he changed the wires....i found them in the center console at the plug for the auto harness. The guy that did the wiring soldered wires straight into the plug, melting several areas of it . This leads me to believe that there is probably a wire touching in that plug that shouldnt be.

Anyway the guy left with his car with his new engine swap working correctly minus the problem it came in with which was the jumping idle, the swap went fine other than that and the first startup threw 0 codes

Thanks for veiwing this, and i hope later on that this well be of some use to someone.

since it sounds like u know what ur talking about, i just put an obdII j-spec gsr into my 98 ex coupe with a whole bunch of goodies on it, and its doing the same thing with the idle. it was already a manual, and ive checked all the vacuum hoses. i took the EVAP emmissions purge control solenoid valve off since we dont have smog checks in florida. mine wants to idle around 3 grand and very roughly at that. any ideas?

depending on how long the engine sat before it was put in, sometimes the IACV (Idle Air control valve) likes to stick shut/open, if so while it is running just tap on it with a rubber mallet from the top to free it up. If thats not the case check your MAP (manifold absolute pressure) and TPS (Throttle position sensor) plugs to make sure they arent switched, since they have the same plug and are in the same area some people get them reversed, (having these reversed will not throw a code just cause very unstable idle and when throttle is applied bog the engine down) since they work off different voltages.

check those and get back on her with a reply if that doesnt fix it, sry for the delay in reply i work offshore in the gulf and havent checked my email in a few days

also did that engine have a plug for that evap purge solenoid on the jdm harness, if not then you know for sure it wasnt used, also know that you have a jdm engine you only need your primary O2 sensor

it will not have a plug for the evap because there is not one on that engine and if you use your stock wiring and add all the wires the you will have the plug and it will not be plug into anything and this will not produce a code because the ecu will not be looking for something that was not there in the first place.