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i thought it was measured from the center of the headlights down...the headlights have to be a certain height or something...

to tell you the truth i have no clue... i would imagine it was the bottom.

i'd just get rid of it. you're in no position nor is your engine to be spraying

fuel and bottom end work. you'll need to replace the rods/pistons for a 250+ build. spark is another issue... you need to have a sufficient ignition setup to ignite all the extra fuel. a set of h22 injecors would be superb or even a set of DSM injectors. something that jets out at least 300...

upper nipple. your first priority would be to get a decent boost controller. just my .02

50 shot fogger is WAY easier to hook up... and i wouldn't shoot anymore than a 50 to it for fear of rods giving out.

lol... you guys fight like a group of old hens... go b18 and be one happy m/f... turbo or all-motor the bast after you get bored with the level of power it supplies. bottom line, b18 or bust beech! P.S. didn't know the B20 was an illegal swap in CA. thanks for the heads up in a sense lol.

my buddy said 51 inches... hope it helps

yeah, that sounds like it would be pretty sick. jump over to your thread on your starting problems. i may have found a couple of things you could check as a source to the problem. check it out.

doubt it... how long has it been since you repplaced the dizzy cap and the rotor? plugs and wires too... 75% of the time it's gonna be an electrical problem (generally spaeking) it very well could be the fuel cause it seems like there's a lapse in fuel delivery if it takes that much to start...

not a problem. why did you need the measurements anyway?

true... but the b20 makes a little better numbers for the price imo...

they look fine to me... i've never known the lights to be bigger than any other light from the 92 to 95 models. they're all the same.

(1) Look for puddles... pretty simple. (2) Look for smoke out the tailpipe... blue smoke in particular... this means oil is getting into the combustion chamber. it will do this a couple of ways. first thing i'd check is the valve seals. most often they give out and you'll leak a little oil into...

B20

i personally like tokicos... they ride a little too stiff for me, but are worth the money if you plan to autocross. my buddy has them in his 91 hatch and they virtually eliminated all the body roll... pair these with a decent set of sway bars and tower bars and it should be stiffer than hugh...

i'll check it on my buddie's hatch tonight.

i would say it would be synchros... my d series trayy did the same thing. is it hard to get into gea? does it randomly fall out of gear? does the noise go away after depressing the clutch? answer these questions and it should narrow a few things down.

i've heard similar things too... regrinds are a bad way to go.

Ok, so i bought a d16z6 for my 96 hatch. dropped it in, wired it up (was done professionally by master honda tech) and it drives great, except for one problem. the cel pops on when i'm in vtec in third gear. it does it in 4th too... i'm confused by it. after the cel comes on all it does is want...