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Body (96 honda civic CX hatch) Engine 1994 B18C1 FrogPad wiring harness converter and a Civic (modified) wiring harness. I have also tried this on 2 P72 ECUs... same result on both. I just bought a new car battery... Didnt help. but I needed one anyway. Edit .. (Acura Integra GSR)

well... im hitting that frustration point. Car was running fine before the skunk 2 intake. Put on the intake and car starts to throw codes. I have fixed a few codes but here is what I have now. Code 20 (electronic Load Detector) Vtec doesn't work but I assume this is because the car is...

Bump... I really Really want to drive my car. been stuck indoors most of the winter.

Well now after replacing the IAT 2 out of the 3 engine codes are now gone. Still throwing code 20 (Electronic Load detector) Went like this Unplug ECU remove old IAT Install new IAT plugin ECU (about 5 minutes after being unplugged so codes were cleared) Turn Ignition to on (not started) Car...

Sensor is on order (comes with the O ring.) 37880-PE2-013 Costs $57.55 canadian (if you arrived at this thread because you have the same problem as me that should help you)

Ok, went back outside. IAT sensor is on the driver’s side but I believe that it used to be on the passenger side on the factory intake When I start the car (without plugging the hole) the car jumps to about 2400RPM and stays there... once warmed up the car will pulse from 1000 to about...

Wires seem fine, I just dissconnected and then reconnected so I know I have the right wires. I might have damaged the sensor when moving it over. is there a way to test the sensor? is there a way to test the IAC?

Would it help anyone if I posted some pictures? I put some duct tape over the hole and drove around. Its like a new car once that inlet is plugged.

Just put a skunk 2 intake on my B18C Now it idles way to high and it wavers, but if I take off the intake and stick my finger into a manufactured hole in the inside of the throttle body towards the rear side of the engine, right before the butterfly it works great. There is quite a bit of...

B18C1 - Integra Axels - SIR Shift linkage - Short Ram Air intake - 2x ECU's Chipped with custom chip I burned (No Speed Limiter, No rev Limiter, No ELD light, Higher Vtec point, modified fuel map) - New Factory Timing belt - Skunk 2 Air Intake - Toxxin Rims (17”) - Lowering springs - New...

staring from the middle working my way to the outsides, 17 foot pounds. is that correct?

That’s cool, I just looked it up. I didn’t know there were options, I just bought the OEM replacement. The old gasket is completely removed... took forever but it’s removed. I really don’t want this gasket to be easy to remove... if anything I want to make absolutely sure that it has...

I recently replaced my Intake manifold on my GSR with the Skunk2 manifold. However when I replaced the manifold I used the old gasket, it seemed in pretty good shape at the time. When I went to start my car it seemed to think that 3000RPM was a good point at which to idle. I took off the old...

I have a JDM and a USDM ECU... I just modded my USDM with datalogging... works great http://www.ecimulti.org/uberdata/index.html there was another website to... but I have the link at home.

My hook up seems to run fine. i ask a couple of friends, and they said thats how they did there's, like mine. i guess its ok, cuz i'm keeping up with HB swap too. Quoted post even hooked up wrong the car will run fine, in the article in this website...

IACV, you will need the 2 wire plug off the original wiring harness. It should have a green/black and a black wire. Attach the yellow/black wire from the 3 wire connector to the green/black wire on the 2 wire plug. Attach the black/blue wire on the 3 wire connector to the black wire on the 2...

Its an odb1 ecu, and odb1 engine. wired with a Civic CX odb2 wiring harness using a frog adapter. this image http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/wiring/wiring.92-95.jpg when i follow the IAB wire back up the frog adapter and hook into the relocated pin with a multimeter the multimeter will only...

its a 37820-P72-A01 but looking at the pinout post above I might have the pin wrong. the article I have been looking at has the pins labeled differently.

Well maybe I am missing something here. The article you pointed me to was for an ODB 2 engine into an ODB1 car. My setup is the opposite. Here is what I have found. Using a multi-meter I connect A17 to the negative lead and the positive lead to +12V IGN. I then race down the highway...

I got a big syringe to replace the fluid. they sell them at automotive stores, just suck the fluid out of the oil container and stick the hose into the fill plug on the tranny. fill the tranny until the oil level in the tranny is level with the plug. I cant remember what type of oil you need...