See now, this is what pises me off. Thoughtless people throwing that idiot word around. Reading comprehension is key here. If you read my posts, I merely mentioned that it is possible to downshift without the clutch in certain situations. I never said heel-toe wasn't useful or viable. I do...
No, I don't. I made all of this up and don't even know how to drive a manual transmission. I'm a 16 year old and wish to be as skillful and knowledgeable as you are some day.
If you had any sort of technique you would understand that you can easily and very smoothly downshift without the...
You might be able to get away with machining in a groove, but you will spend a lot on machining all of the pistons. You are better off getting some aftermarket forged pistons.
*squirt*
What problem? Ohhhh, your problem that was posted half way through this thread? You need pistons designed to retain the wrist pin if you would like to use those rods. There will be grooves machined into the wrist pin bore in the piston which accept spiralocks or C clips.
Now, back to the...
I think Jacobs makes a good nitrous control unit. It pulses the solenoids so the power is progressive rather than a huge hit of HP within 10 RPMs. I had to use one of these on a customer car since HP went from ~205 to ~360 when the nitrous system was engaged and it would overwhelm the 22"...
Typical S300 glitch. Maybe try the Hondata support forum or talking to your tuner about the issue. It could possibly be a bad socketing job int he ECU.
Think about it some more after you look at it from the edge. You will see that the washer is conical, and that the big end of the cone faces away from the belt.
All B16 heads are the same, from like 88 to 00. The only difference with any of the plug wires is the little plastic bracket things that hold them down. I'll repeat myself: all B series plug wires fit all B series heads. VTEC, non VTEC, GSR, B16 all the same regardless of Honda's part numbers.
...a one pin, thus one wire connector. You can get a small female spade connector to stick into the knock sensor then run that to the knock sensor ECU pin.
The car runs like shit with a knock sensor code because the ECU pulls timing (alot of timing, like 10*+) which makes the motor feel sluggish.
Well, what do you want to do to do with the rest of the motor? Piston selection is just as important as the rest of your parts. Turbo? All motor? What cams? Displacement? Pump gas?
If you are going to buy a kart, seriously consider a Rotax RM1. I have an 80cc shifter kart and honestly I haven't run it in a year because the classes suck here. Nobody shows up with 80cc karts anymore so I would get lumped in with the 125s and get smoked by someone who weighs 50 lbs less...
The burn mark is from 50k volts jumping an air gap. You should replace the cap and rotor every 20k miles or so if you demand a lot from your ignition system. Getting corroded in there could mean that the small rubber gasket that seals the cap off from the atmosphere isn't there or is cracked...
PR3 is also available in an OBDI variant, although they are much less common.
It is possible that someone swapped out ECU boards in your PR3 case, I would open it up and have a look.
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