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If your VTEC hits hard, it is coming in too late. The reason for it to hit hard is your engine is starving for air then your VTEC comes in and lets it breath. If you set it earlier, it will pull harder through the entire range, just not all at once.

Not true! There are mounts and axels avalible for H and F motors... 1FunRyd · Performance Customs · Projects Third one down.

That was just to just to let him know there were options with trannies that would bolt right up, mount normal, and not need a lot of axel work. Besides that, B trannies are listed elsewhere on this forum! https://hondaswap.com/swap-articles/b-series-transmission-guide-29099/

Here's some info from H-T that may help. Daniel M. </B></B></B></B></B></B></B></B> Offline 192 posts [100%] Milano Italy 1-1-2004 « Re: Anyone have the specs on the Euro R/ATR transmission? (satan_srv)« » 12:40 AM 5/29/2005 Reply Edit Here are all the specs I have find out on...

That is your 'speed sensitive power steering' valve. It changes the amount of assist at changing speeds.

I'm sure you will get a bunch of help from now on.

No it is not a direct bolt in. De motur mountie no feet. Pay someone big $ to do it for you.

I'm guessing you have an F22 now that is running well, you are in school and have a shop class that allows you to work on your own stuff, and you want to take your first car that you love to the next level. If you have the expertise, build a motor for it first and swap it out when it is ready...

Sorry about the ass question of what color is it but, you have to give us more data. Is this your only car, winter beater, daily driver that you drive 100 miles a day to work, a weekend toy, ????? Keep it in mind that the H23 has FRM sleeves which are not the most boost happy so, if you plan on...

What color is it?

On top of all the $ and time needed to make a 10 second car, using one as a daily driver is no picnic. It becomes an instant cop magnet, a chore to drive, and you never want to park it anywhere out of your sight. A good low 12 second car will kill most of the stuff on the street and you won't...

The F22C is a stroked F20C the same FRM sleeves, besides he asked if he could see 220 ponies out of it. It stands to reason that 237 N/A is more than 220 in any form, he should be able to do it with a hairdryer on minimum boost and the right parts. If he uses cams, rods, and crank at near...

If AJ's can get 300 hp out of a n/a F22C and the H22 has the same bore/stroke, I can't see a problem getting 220 to the ground, with enough $$ thrown at it. By-the-way the F22C has 237hp from the factory

You can check this out to see if it is what you're looking for. possible group buy ko si shifters - Preludepower.com I hope nobody has an issue with linking to a Prelude site. Good luck.

But they only modify 1 cams timing slightly.

H22A: Rod 143MM H23A Rod 141.5MM If you don't want to spend the money on the rod and you are replacing the piston you can use the F20C piston that has a 3mm shorter pin to dome height.

As far as 'best' I don't know but, if you have a good substantial budget, I read somewhere you can use the B16 tranny to make a F20C from an S2000 into FWD. That would put you at 240 OEM ponies.

I do like the way the exhaust runs down the back-side of the motor, you can change the oil without dripping onto the pipe.

On another note, will the f20c internals and or head fit the f20a or b?