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If the top end isnt moving, the timing belt is probably broken.

Thrust washers come to mind.

Does the cell come on and go back off when you turn the key to the on position? Make sure the tps and map sensor plugs aren't mixed up.

Explicit ^

I had a 3 month wait for a traction bar on my civic. to make a long story short, I disputed it with PayPal and got my money back 7 months later.

Usually turns out to be something simple. I've seen that happen too many times. Lol

Check your grounds. Especially the one on the t-stat housing.

Does the light come on and go off when you turn the key on?

That's because you're running an obd1 ecu. There is a two pin plug in a rubber cap located above the ecu under the dash on the passenger side. Put a paperclip across the two pins and watch the check engine light on the dash. Use this link for help: OBD 1 CEL codes...here....

Is the check engine light on? If so, what codes is it throwing?

I have an 01 h22 type s running its 01 obd2 ecu in my 99 ex. No injector resistor box. Only US OBD2 ECU'S use a secondary o2. What do you need to hook up to the intake manifold vacuum? All I have is my brake booster to its own nipple, evap canister to the evap purge solenoid, cruise control to...

Why do you have a resistor box wired in? as far as I know, obd2 H's don't need them with the stock injectors. My h22 type s doesn't have one.

If it bolts in like the other one, and has the correct resistance value; I'd use it.

Spark plug wires in the correct order?

Well, I know Matt Malloy. if there's a way to do it, it will get done. This should turn out good.

What he said. ^^^^ Or Go to Google, type in "cometic " find the style that you want. Then Google common sense, buy some of that too .

It's not that easy, the obd2 ecu's look for more than the obd1's. Fuel tank pressure and something else. I tried it one time in an obd1 car, I could never get rid of all the codes, it always ran rich and shitty. I was out $135 in the end and ended up running it on a p28. Ran better with the p28...

For the most part it should run fine. The ignition timing and fuel might be off a little bit because of the difference in cam profiles, but the ecu should be able to cope with it.

The y7 block has a hole for the knock sensor, you have to tap the threads into it though. Everything else should be fine besides the vtec check engine light. As far as the black circle, I think the y8 heads had the egr passage inside the head, but never used it.

From what i can see, it Looks like you had a d16y8 head, and bought a d16y7 engine. Is your car an ex? If it is an ex, you will get a check engine light from the d16y7's lack of a vtec solenoid, and knock sensor if you use your d16y8 ecu (engine computer).