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Isnt the iat on the intake tube? If it is i may have a really BIG problem because i have an injen cai and it doesnt have the plug on the intake

Ok i have a 92 civic with d15b. I have been having problems with the car at about 1500 rpms. When it gets to about 1500rpms it acts like it is hitting the rev limiter and it does this everytime. No problems above or below 1500rpms just right in the same spot. I do have a cel but the code is for...

No should just be an direct replacement. If you do it yourself be sure to give yourself plenty of time to do it. I made the mistake of thinking i could do it in one weekend and ended up breaking the head off of two bolts and having to bum a ride to work that week.

You would be swapping an obd0 motor for an obd1 so you will have to do some wiring not 100% sure but you could probably use the same mounts,axles,tranny,but probably have to get a new harness and possibly ecu.

Honestly the h22 would be a perfect swap for your accord. Ive seen it done tons of times so there is plently of info out there on the swap. And if you want to keep the f22...you should check out bisimoto engineering they are single cam gods! hope this helped

Yeah i was kinda leaning toward bs on that one but the guy said he had dyno to prove it... buy anyway thanks for the info

I was doing some research and came across a forum where someone was saying that the d16a6 cam can increase up to 33hp over a stock d15 cam. I was wondering if this same horsepower can be gained by replacing a jdm d15b cam with the a6? If anyone has done this please help.

So would i lose power by putting the vtec head on the b7 block vs the b block?

ok i have a 92 hatch with a jdm d15b. I also have a hatch as a parts car and it has a d15b7. I know obviously the b7 is non vtec and the b is. But my question is there a difference in the blocks? If the blocks are the same i was going to rebuild the b7 so that way i could still drive everyday...

Not sure the mileage of the motor i do know that the body has 130k

Im going to do a compression test soon. The gas mileage is still really good around 35+. Check the plugs no discolor of any kind. Could my exhaust be involved with this the previous owner put 3" pipe w/o cat to a 4.5" skunk2 muffler?

I have a 92 cx hatchback with a jdm 1.5. The car is smoking REALLY bad when i get on it from about 3k to redline. Kinda a grayish black smoke. Ive heard several reasons why this is happening...valve seals, head gasket, piston rings. It is also using a little bit of oil. Any ideas where i should...

Checked the plugs couldnt see anything wrong with them? Is there a chance than it could be caused by bad valve seals or something in the head?

Might help a little bit H22A swap guide

The Odometer say 120k but since it is a hybrid motor im not sure about the mileage on the head. As far as a blown head gasket or piston rings is concerned is there anyway to check those without physically taking the head off? Compression test maybe?

For some reason my 92 civic (mini me) is producing a grayish white smoke (from what i can tell from inside the car) It really only does it from about 3k rpms to redline. Not burning access coolant, and buring a little bit of oil. And im not feeling a power loss. Any ideas what this could be?

Yeah i hear ya there. I would do the obd1 conversion and get a z6 though.

But if your dead set on a d series build... Na would be a good idea if your looking for somewhere around 160whp at best if you want higher than that you will have to go turbo. Ive seen d16 running 8-10psi all day with decent tuning. But remember when turboing a car it is never a bad thing to be...

Personally i would just go B series n/a very reliable and will give ya more hp and you will have an all around better motor for any build.

Ok so which of those answers was directed to my question? Please people if ur not driving an eg hatch and wanting to do a rear disc conversion from a 92 teg stay off this thread. It only takes a few mins to make ur own and you will save everyone a lot of trouble.