'00 Si w/GReddy Kit and CEL!

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turbosupra

Junior Member
Greetings,

As indiciated by the topic I've got a '00 Si with the GReddy Kit (and the FMIC kit as well) and the CEL comes on when it sees boost. Obviously this is the "P1106: Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor Circuit Range/Performance" code that everyone hates. Problem is, the stupid blue box (the FMU, not an e-Manage) is supposed to lie to the ECU about that and it's not. I think. Any one else experience this problem, I hate having to reset the CEL and granny the car to the inspection place every year. It's been doing this for quite some time now (a month or so after the kit when on, 20k miles or so, but I don't drive the car primarly so it never bothered me.) The car runs well, no black smoke out the tail pipe, no weird idles, and good power under boost. To top it off it still does 25mpg or so.

Also, if anyone has a scanned copy of the GReddy manual for this kit that shows the wiring to the ECU, it'd be appreiciated since I can't seem to fnd my copy of it. I'm going back to dig for it in the file cabinet from hell.

Also, the replys of "throw out the FMU and get a e-Manage, Hondata, Uberdata, AEM EMS, Motec 800, etc..." are not what I'm looking for. This is a bolt on kit, and it's supposed to work. I am going to re-check my wiring on the ECU, as that is most likely my culprit, but I'd like to see if anyone else has experienced this problem. I found a post somewhere on the 'net that someone had the same issue with the GReddy kit, but the site is defunct now.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. :p
 
Also, the replys of "throw out the FMU and get a e-Manage, Hondata, Uberdata, AEM EMS, Motec 800, etc..." are not what I'm looking for. This is a bolt on kit, and it's supposed to work.


how about:

ebay the FMU, ebay the emanage,
buy some dsm 450cc injectors, a walbro fuel pump, a socketed p28 ecu, an obd2b->obd1 conversion harness?

you'll probably end up even, cost wise... and actually be able to tune.
not to mention, pick up a shit load more power, get better throttle response, and better fuel economy than an fmu could ever provide.

but, since you don't want to hear that...

i don't know what scan tool you are using.... but if you're throwing a baro code, it has NOTHING to do with boost.

there is the Baro sensor, which richens or leans based on elevation.
and then there is the dreaded map sensor, which will throw a code if it sees more than 1or2 psi of boost.

why? because the computer doesn't have fuel or ignition tables for boost.
a chipped p28 with cromes boost tools will let you have these tables.


its a kit, and its supposed to work, but its fucking garbage.

the blue box probably isn't hooked up right, or is wired wrong, thus not tricking the ecu.

if you don't want to heed this advice, i have nothing to offer you, and straight up- it will only be a matter of time before that fmu fails you.
be it shitty power, shitty response, shitty gas mileage, or worse, leans you out and block goes boom.

all motor ignition advance + boost = bad.

did i mention crome is free?
you can download it from pgmfi.org (and thats the password to extract it too)
i'll be happy to make you a base map to help you get started-- pm me for details if you're interested--

add the proper injectors (dsm 450s can be had for 50 bucks) and a walbro pump (new for 90, used for 50).

other than a laptop, the rest is easy too.

but i'm rambling... and you probably don't want to hear it.
 
Obviously this is the "P1106: Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor Circuit Range/Performance" code that everyone hates.


can you explain how you came to the conclusion thats its OBVIOUSLY the baro?

did you check the codes?
 
I don't currently have an e-Manage for the Civic, it's installed on my '89 Supra, works beautifully (maybe because it's pre-OBD) and tunes just fine. I really don't want to spend any more money, or do anything to the car that will prevent it from passing any sort of inspection. They are loose on most restrictions here, if the CEL light comes on when the key is on, and it doesn't stay lit when it's running, you're good down here.

I figured it wouldn't be an issue to just use GReddy's blue box since this kit will never see anything over it's stock intended boost. Hell, the only person who really drives it is my girlfriend. She prolly never boosts it anyway. It's been doing well since it's been on the car, but that pesky CEL will not go away. I am very aware of the bad deals of all motor ignition advance + boost meaning catastrophy, I just had no idea how inferior that blue box GReddy sold with the kit really was. I figured it would at least do the simple job on the stock kit.

I'm using an AutoXRay EZ-SCAN 6000 to pull the codes. I apologize for not being more specific. It reports this, "P1106: Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor Circuit Range/Performance" as soon as you give it any sort of real throttle. That's the only code it ever throws (and has every thrown for that matter) and it started doing it about 2 months after I had the kit on. I installed the entire kit, including the blue box, and I am going to double check my wiring, maybe over the years something came loose. If the problem is the BARO sensor vs. a problem with boost, where can I begin hunting so I can at least get that damn light to go off. lol!

If there really is no hope for the blue box on completely stock settings, then I will investigate the method you listed. I have no idea where to begin hunting for the DSM 450cc Injectors (or the model numbers, types, years, etc... that I can use), the Socketed P28 ECU, or the conversion harness. If it's the same ole' Walbro 255lph that I use in my Supra, I know right where to get one. My closet. There's 2 in there. I bought extras for a rainy day. If it's not that pump, which one is it?

My line in my original post regarding the replies I didn't want was in regards to the many many posts I read while searching the archives that offered nothing other than, "Throw out that piece of **** buy this." period, with no sort of explanation. Thanks for your time and detailed information regarding my problem. I'll keep an eye on here on info regarding the upgrade parts you listed. I'm off to explore pgmfi.org.
 
I used an AutoXRay EX SCAN 6000 to pull the codes, but I confused it with the "map sensor seeing boost" problem. I've been trying to research the problem and several sources listed that the P1106 code was related to that issue. I figued mentioning the code and it's description was enough to imply that I actually pulled the codes. Apparently it was not. I apologize for the confusion. Obviously I'm not as much of a Honda guy as I am a Toyota guy. I'm relatively new to the Hondas and methods of managing their ECUs.

Originally posted by reckedracing@Aug 18 2005, 09:14 PM
Obviously this is the "P1106: Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor Circuit Range/Performance" code that everyone hates.


can you explain how you came to the conclusion thats its OBVIOUSLY the baro?

did you check the codes?
[post=542036]Quoted post[/post]​
 
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