5 Year Project Plan

Ozwald

New Member
This is the plans i have for my 98 LX. Some of the mods i am doing may sound insane but that is why it is a 5 year project... Feel free for any pointers that i may need to look for an any of this.

What i am planning is for a total overhaul to personalize this econobox with a zest of insanity. Goal hp = 250 ish
The car is being built for a adventure run and then to be used as a winter beater. :D

Car: 1998 LX 4 door auto

Modifications:

Chassis:
Wagon the rear using ek hatchback
AWD rear suspension
Mod rear floor to accept CRV fuel tank
Fender flare to fit CRV suspension (1.25 inch out on each wheel)
Front bumper from 99-00 for fog lights
Skid plate
Spliter
Cut hood to expose exhaust manifold with screen
Modified rear bumper for dual exhaust
Undercoat
Fiberglass wheel wells
Mate black finish with dark red weather stripping
All glass but windshield replaced with plexiglas

Engine Bay:
Harness tuck, mild
A/C line tuck
Electric A/C compressor
Electric Power steering
Cruse control relocation

Engine and drive-line:
B20 block, stock internals
Cylinder reinforcement plate
B18 VTEC head
Coil over ignition, from newer civics
baby or twin turbo (Still up in the air)
Front mount inter-cooler
A/C and Power Steering delete
Manual CRV transmission with AWD
swap 5th for higher ratio
OEM CRV drive-train
2.7in. exhaust to rear diff then dual 2in. on either side of rear bumper
exhaust cutout, precat, post turbo
Polyurethane rear mount only
OEM mounts for the rest

Suspension:
CRV from struts down
5 lug wheels
This will widen the stance by 2.5 inches
CRV sway bars
Strut braces, front/rear
Disk breaks all around, 282mm front, 260mm rear
CRV alloy wheels with p225/65/r15 tires with about 40 psi

Interior:
Full cage
Sun roof
stock dash
full interior
rear bench removed, replaced with two pilot seats
5 point harnesses
custom carpet/ headliner

Electronics:
Home built ECU
4 oxygen sensors (one per cylinder)
Possible wire in wheel speed sensors


Comment if you like the plan or if you can think of anything else i can do. Any other questions are welcome. Again this is a lot of work but thats why i have a 5 year plan. The saving up began a while ago. O yea, im doing the work with my friend. both have auto technology degrees and i almost have my engineering degree and access to a machine shop.
 

phunky.buddha

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Sounds like you should trade for a manual 1st gen CRV and start from there. :)
 

Ozwald

New Member
Not staying auto, it will be a manual
Why do you say the VTEC head will tear it apart?
Its only modifying the valve train. if that statement was true my d16 with a y8 head should have died already.

Ive looked around and the rear diff is only good for about 300hp so i figured id keep is around 250 to keep the transmission integrity ish.

Reason for not using the CRV directly is because it would put me in an SUV class...

I thought it was safe with a good tune to go about double what the engine originally comes with.
 

Briansol

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the b20 revving high is not something it was meant to do. going to 8k is 1200 higher than the b20 was designed for.


suv class is probably easier to compete with than an awd conversion (outlaw?) class most likely I would imagine... what type of racing are you planning to do?

I can't think of a single motorsport event, drag, autox, trophy truck, drift, parking lot, or anything else where i would pick 225/65 tires
 

phunky.buddha

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I can't think of a single motorsport event, drag, autox, trophy truck, drift, parking lot, or anything else where i would pick 225/65 tires

Yeah... I had a CRV build in mind and was thinking more along the lines of 245/50-17. :ph34r:
 

Ozwald

New Member
i was thinking the wider thicker tires because of crossing streams and driving through mud. and keeping the stock size so there is enough flex in the side walls so that the rim wont bash the ground
 

civicious

FüK-VTEC
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Chassis:
Wagon the rear using ek hatchback
AWD rear suspension
Mod rear floor to accept CRV fuel tank
Fender flare to fit CRV suspension (1.25 inch out on each wheel)
Front bumper from 99-00 for fog lights
Skid plate
Spliter
Cut hood to expose exhaust manifold with screen
Modified rear bumper for dual exhaust
Undercoat
Fiberglass wheel wells
Mate black finish with dark red weather stripping
All glass but windshield replaced with plexiglas

Engine Bay:
A/C line tuck
Electric A/C compressor
Electric Power steering


Engine and drive-line:
stock internals
Cylinder reinforcement plate

Coil over ignition, from newer civics
baby or twin turbo

A/C and Power Steering delete
2.7in. exhaust to rear diff then dual 2in. on either side of rear bumper
Polyurethane rear mount only
OEM mounts for the rest


Suspension:
CRV from struts down
This will widen the stance by 2.5 inches
CRV sway bars

breaks
about 40 psi


Electronics:
Home built ECU
4 oxygen sensors (one per cylinder)
Possible wire in wheel speed sensors





I took the liberty to underline all the completely retarded shit.

WHY?

This looks SO much like 'build requests' that I get from engineers on a regular basis...not saying engineers aren't intelligent, but having ZERO real-world experience, knowledge, and know-how REALLY shows through in lists like this...

I'm not going to ridicule you, but you took the time to write up that much crap...do me a favor and explain why for each of the things that I've underlined.
 

phunky.buddha

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i was thinking the wider thicker tires because of crossing streams and driving through mud. and keeping the stock size so there is enough flex in the side walls so that the rim wont bash the ground

You actually want skinnier taller tires for mud and rivers...
 

Ozwald

New Member
Explain it all in a nutshell:

There is no ek wagon in the US
AWD and b20 for bigger motor and ability to put the power to the ground.
Using the CRV suspension for more clearance under the car and more travle
CRV tank because it is bigger
Body mods for the hell of it
engine bay tuck to make it look clean and custom
with a goal power of 250HP the transmission dose not need to be modified, also the internals of the b20 should be strong enough for that power.
the rear polly mound is to limit the rotation of the engine but keeping the other ones stock to keep the vibration down
cop ignition and custom computer to allow for tuning.
Also, next year for my major i need to build and program a computer for my final project in my minor.

anything else? lol Questions are good, Advice is appreciated.

calesta, taller skinnier? i would have thought the opposite. but if so i could use taller skinnier. ill look it up
 

phunky.buddha

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Explain it all in a nutshell:

There is no ek wagon in the US
AWD and b20 for bigger motor and ability to put the power to the ground.
Using the CRV suspension for more clearance under the car and more travle
CRV tank because it is bigger
Body mods for the hell of it
engine bay tuck to make it look clean and custom
with a goal power of 250HP the transmission dose not need to be modified, also the internals of the b20 should be strong enough for that power.
the rear polly mound is to limit the rotation of the engine but keeping the other ones stock to keep the vibration down
cop ignition and custom computer to allow for tuning.
Also, next year for my major i need to build and program a computer for my final project in my minor.

anything else? lol Questions are good, Advice is appreciated.

Yeah.



Seriously, if you want to do all that- just do an EK front end conversion on a CRV. Much easier.

calesta, taller skinnier? i would have thought the opposite. but if so i could use taller skinnier. ill look it up

You only want wider if you need flotation in areas where your tires can't cut through to the lower solid ground below- otherwise you'll just slide everywhere. Go look it up on the serious 4x4 boards. Wider is mostly just for looks, and if you want true flotation, you need a LOT wider- like monster truck wide.
 

Ozwald

New Member
im talking chassis weight, with out engine and trans.

The hatch only add about 250 lbs but replacing the glass gives back almost 60 lbs.

plus with AWD ill need weight in the rear to help with oversteer
 

SlushboxTeggy

It's only stupid if it doesn't work
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im talking chassis weight, with out engine and trans.
You don't think that "chassis" weight is going to change when you have to add some sort of a real subframe to mount the rear diff to?
The hatch only add about 250 lbs but replacing the glass gives back almost 60 lbs.
You're not adding just the hatch. Again, you will increase chassis weight when you fab up whatever you plan to mount the hatch to.
plus with AWD ill need weight in the rear to help with oversteer
You haven't looked into the AWD system yet have you? It's a variable split. It only sends power to the rear wheels when the front wheels start to slip. And you won't get near a 50-50 split even in the best case scenario.
 
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