95 d16z6 into 93eg 4 door won't rev but.....

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I bought a 95 ex with a d16z6 with my FAFSA money and drove it 2 days befor I was ran off the road into a ditch and totalled it. The engine still ran fine so I found a 4door ex(some @#%$&@ put an ex badge on a EG) with a blown head gasket. It was an auto but I changed the engine and tranny. I realized it was an EG so I swapped the floorboard harness. I have the exact setup as the 2 door ex now. A d16z6 with a p28 ecu. Now to the problem. It starts up right away and idles fine. I had to replace the the TPS and O2 sensor to get it this way and the exhaust manifold because it cracked the holes around the mounting bolts. When I try to give it gas it sounds like a car with a MAF sensor does with the intake tube off. This happens around 3000rpm. The engine is fine and I don't have any intake leaks. It pulls the roaming idle fit every now and then but around 1000 to around 1500. Ive been all over forum after forum and it has to be something stupidly simple but it has me baffled. Bought a throttle body with a good TPS. Map sensor doesn't throw codes either. I didnt know you had to calibrate the TPS. But like I said No codes are being thrown. If I cover the Throttle Body with my hand it dies so I assume no leaks, plus I have checked all the hoses. I have sprayed ether around the intake(while it's cold of course) to check for intake leaks and everything seems fine. I've owned 5 300zx's and if it were a nissan it would be the intake hose off the MAF sensor. That is the best way I can explain what the symptoms are. I did replace the floorboard harness. Is there a relay or something that connects to it under the dash that would cause my problem? What is the equivilent to a Mass Air Flow sensor on a 92-95 honda? in other words what sensor tells how much air is entering the engine? The TPS was on a stock d16 Throttlebody, Are you supposed to calibrate it? If so, How?
I have found out that the MAP sensor tells the ecu the air volume. Besides the engine grounds and the black wires that ground at your left knee under the dash, are their any more places that the main harness grounds that I may have missed? that is the only thing anyone can think of.
LOL @ buying a swapped honda with student financial aid money (and then crashing it two days later)

sorry but i had to laugh
check and make sure all the vacuum hoses are ran right if the evap purge and fuel pressure are switched it will cause it to stop around 3000-4000 rpms..
I put a gauge on my fuel filter and it is showing 80psi it had an adjustable regulator so i changed it to a stock regulator. I am stumped. it still has no codes and wont rev past 3000. ive checked grounds and everything. i will check the evap/purge canister in the morning. Thanx for any suggestions
not the big canister, but the evap purge sylinoid on the back of the intake manifold..
still cant figure it out. It boggs if you give it gas, Running 80 psi even with oem fuel pressure reg . Is there a relay under the dash(besides the ecu) that could be causing the problem? Any pinouts I should check to make sure it is right. I have a P28 and then bought a 95 civic ex to replace the A06 and four door auto motor I took out for a 5 speed setup with the d16z6? the Z6 came out of a del sol so would there be a dsifference in the engine harness?
no the harness is the same but you do need to make sure the ecu is for a 5spd. have you double checked the vacuum hoses... fuel pressure should be 42-45 at idle and 48 full throttle...
the ecu, harness, and engine came out of a civic I totalled and it is all for a 5 speed and it ran like a champ before I yanked it. It has to be the fuel pressure but what would cause the pressure to be 80 all the time ? I have tried oem regulators that I know were good. It had an adjustable FPR on it but it didn't change it either. Could the return and supply being swapped do it? I don't think the hoses would reach to do that though. I've turbocharged a weedeater but can't get a civic to rev!! I'm pulling my hair out. Does it have a fuel pump relay that would tell the pump when it has enough prressure?
the vac line goes from the FPR into the intake. The evap purge on the firewall side goes to the canister. The other canister line goes to the TB. I'm pretyy sure that's how it's ran. I didn't unhook them when I swapped engines. I didn't use the same canister but the lines were only long enough to go that way. Oh yeah the tach needle hesitates when I try to rev it.
the engine I took out ran fine except for a blown head gasket. Lol so the fuel system should be ok from the filter back. It was a D15something y5? I'm using the fuel filter from it. Surely that wouldn't matter this much. I just added a gauge on top.
my evap purge valve has been JB Welded in the past. If it's leaking air then would that cause the 80psi fuel pressure?
nope. The FPR just goes straight into the intake. It's only about 6in long.
I can't think of any other vac lines to check. The valve cover one has a mini filter on it and the intake has one too