any GOOD BUILDERs here

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Originally posted by MaliWho97@Nov 19 2003, 09:49 PM
If you want something better, just get a damn B16a and build it.... Bore it to a 1.8, and do the damn thing.

i do have a b16 in my car already. i just want to know if i can use ONLY AN LS CRANK TO MAKE IT 1.8 with nothing else. i have so many thing i want to do but i am just going to pick one. what i perfer is lsvtec first, then b20vtec, then b16 to 1.8
i want the one that will be most reliable and cost will not kill me to mantance and do. BEST SUGGESTIONS?
 
well first of all, using a different crank to increase displacement is probably the worst route you can take. It increases sideloading, as well as the time that the piston sits at TDC. You do however gain more torque because of the bigger crank radius.


If your going big power, I'd say leave the crank.
If your going moderate power, a bigger crank should probably work fine.


and to answer your question, I have no idea what the new displacement is. Use the displacement calculator.
 
to put an ls crank in a b16 you'll need to notch the bottom of the cylinder walls. you'll also need custom rods because the b16a deck height is shorter than the b18's. you want reliable and cheap? keep the b16 you have, throw in some ctr pistons and do some head work.
 
i'd atleast upgrade to arp head bolts, shot peened ls rods or eagle rods, arp rod bolts, balanced bottom end to be on the safe side.
 
how much work will need to be done to use a ls crank on b16. ill probably get eagle rods and some 11-1 piston which is met for it. i need an estimate on how much everything cost for machine work and putting it together. i dont want to do this by myself, rather have people know what they are doing in this topic.

help or should i go lsvtec or b20z???
 
You can get an LS block for next to nothing, and if you know where to look- for nothing. If you are willing to pony up for all the machine work and to purchase an LS crank, forged rods & pistons... Do it yourself before adopting someone elses problem, if you are buying this LS/VTEC that cheap- there is proably a reason. If something goes wrong, you can turn back to your builder. Buy it used, and you are insured against nothing. All this beind said under the premise that you are willing to spend a little and not going to build it yourself.
 
If you're looking for prices to figure out what you want to do, here's a brief list of my pricing.

These prices include the following:
- Honda Block
- Honda Crank
- Eagle Rods
- SRP Pistons
- ACL Bearings
- Honda Water Pump
- Honda Oil Pump
- No Core Charge
- Hone, Balancing
- Choice of compression ratio (most applications between 8.9:1 to 11.5:1)
- Complete Assembly of Short Block

1 - B18A1 machined for VTEC head, including Golden Eagle oil feed kit - $1800
(I'm running this setup in my car, 11.2:1 CR, rev to 9k almost daily, no problems)

2 - B16A2 - $1600

3 - B20 CRV machined for VTEC head, including Golden Eagle oil feed kit - $2000

Sleeving is available and recommended if you're planning on running boost or a high-rev B20. I also build complete long blocks that include a warranty, but I don't want to make this post any longer than it already is :). For more details and prices, send me a message. Hope this helps.
 
Regarding the oil squirters, can't you tap the oil passage and use pr3 oil squirters? That's pretty much all that Honda did when they installed them in the pr3 block, and the pr3 and pr4 are almost identical casts. Its the same thing you'd do when you install a knock sensor. any thoughts? Calesta, have you tried this? And I have a b18 block for cheap if you want it and live in CA. But I spun the bearing (on the rod side), so you'd have to get it machined back to specs by a machine shop. But did I say it's cheap?
 
I'd like to know the answer to this one too. Can you put oil squirters on a B18A/B? I'd like to do this to mine.
Thanx! :worthy:
 
yes you can .... im not sure how to go about it ... but i have heard of it being done
 
My machine shop said that all you need are the oil squirters from a vtec motor, and then tap the oil passage for each cylinder. You'll definately need a vtec oil pump though, in order keep good oil pressure. The squirters will fit perfectly.
 
There's a main oil passage in the block that runs at the bottom of the cylinders in the crank case. You simply drill and tap a hole in the passage for each piston squirter and, after cleaning the block thoroughly, screw them in. We have done it before on a few LS blocks when customers asked for them.
 
The passage that you tap in to is very large...there is a plug at each end of the block for it. It's maybe 3/4" in diameter. After we drill and tap it, we run it through the jet wash then spray it down with a strong solvent and run brushes through all the passages just to be sure. We've never had any problems with material being left over using this method.
 
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