Axle Replacing Tips

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eastbxc

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I am going to be replacing both my axles this weekend and I think I have a pretty good idea how to do it but was just looking for any suggestions that you have found that would make things easier? I found this thread pretty basic info was just curious if anyone had anything else to add?

https://hondaswap.com/general-tech-articles/how-change-axle-civic-integra-44487/

Also I just notice I placed this in the wrong section so if someone could move it that would be great.
 
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sevenhillsbilly

New Member
i do you dnt have to beat on anything with hammer you can go rent a ball joint fork to make the removal of the lower arms a little easier. also you can use the fork to get the end of the axle out of the transmission.another usefull bit of info is the nut on the axle is 32mm and it isnt hard at all if you have an impact gun they come right off but dnt forget to take the dimple out on the nut.
 

eastbxc

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Thanks for the info. I am going to be doing this with my Grandpa he used to be a mechanic so he should have some knowledge it's just he never worked on any imports but he does have plenty of tools a compressor and an impact so I think we can do it I am just looking for any info that would make it as easy as possible.
 

Briansol

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have a pan ready to catch the tranny fluid that will come out when you pull it form the tranny side. and of course, have fluid to top it off with.

and DONT hit the ball joint with the hammer. its a very sensitive piece. one wack to it will screw it up. hit the arm, not the joint.

air tools help for breaking the axel nut. ootherwise, step on the brake while the other person pulls.

new nuts are recommended, and don't forget to crush one of the 'tabs' in to lock it in place.
 

eastbxc

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have a pan ready to catch the tranny fluid that will come out when you pull it form the tranny side. and of course, have fluid to top it off with.

and DONT hit the ball joint with the hammer. its a very sensitive piece. one wack to it will screw it up. hit the arm, not the joint.

air tools help for breaking the axel nut. ootherwise, step on the brake while the other person pulls.

new nuts are recommended, and don't forget to crush one of the 'tabs' in to lock it in place.
+rep all great info

I was reading through my manual today and step #3 the first thing you do when you get the wheels off the ground says to drain the tranny fluid. Do you usually do that or do you just fill in the top? I just replaced the transmission fluid when I rebuilt the motor less than 8,000 miles ago and it has only been about 7 months so should I go ahead and drain it anyway?

Also I was going to replace the axle seal. Does that usually come with the axle? I bought them from CarQuest I am guessing it doesn't but just wondering.
 

eastbxc

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13SH30_B21.gif


Which number would be the axle seal?

Here is a link to that page
 

sevenhillsbilly

New Member
you dont have to drain it just be ready to catch it when it comes out of the axle holes like b said. and the fork is something that makes the job so much easier.
and you need the axle seal for the trans to axle right?

prddisplay.jsp

it is number 10 is what your looking for
13SH30_M02.gif

prddisplay.jsp
 

eastbxc

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Awesome Thanks for the feedback +rep

Alright I will just be ready to fill it up. Yeah I just need the one that goes into the transmission. Hopefully it comes with new axle nuts. I think there called castle nuts but I am probably wrong.
 

sevenhillsbilly

New Member
well you dont need the new axle nuts you can reuse the old ones it doesnt matter. and i dont think they come with new.
and dont forget to put some grease on the spindle end to make it a lil easier goin into the hub. also if your going to take the calipers off to make it easier put some anti-seize on the bolts that hold it on for the next time you do brakes. and replace the cotterpins on the castle nuts on the ball joint and tie rod
 
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disableddan

Crazy Insane
I was looking at a replacement axle at partsource, it had the axle nut and the "circlip".
 

Briansol

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the castle nuts are on the underside and hold the control arms to the ball joints. those don't need to be replaced. The axel nut is on the 'hub' and generally, once its been hammered in, you'll want to use a new one. it can be re-used if its in good shape though.

fluid, not much will drain out... a couple cups or so tops. just topping it off will be fine
 

b18JDMcivic

Junior Member
hey does anybody know what company is good to get performance axels from??
 

eastbxc

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hey does anybody know what company is good to get performance axles from??
I wouldn't know about performance axles but my guess would be just OEM ones. I just got my at CarQuest because they were the cheapest and they also came with a lifetime warranty.
 
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eastbxc

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Thanks everyone for your responses. It is all good tips. I am going to read through the instruction a few more times. I just like to have a good idea of what to do before I start anything so I usually re read the manual 4 or 5 times. I will let everyone know how it goes this weekend. Thanks again.

Also I have another question. I went into the Honda dealership yesterday to talk to the guy who helped me rebuild my motor and see if he had any tips and he said "do not use a torch to heat any nuts to get them to come off because anytime you heat metal like that it distorts it". So I am gonna go ahead and say I shouldn't use a torch? I was just wondering what you guys do because I have thought I have read some where people say to use a torch?
 
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sevenhillsbilly

New Member
no torch you can burn seals out and melt the tops to ball joints and the boot that is around them will have a hole and pretty soon you will be replacing them. pb blaster and time is all you can do and an impact as well.
 

eastbxc

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Alright so I will not be torching anything.

Here is a picture of my new axles and axle seals. I can't wait to change them I am really getting tired of hearing them click as I turn.

SANY0162.jpg
 

BrokenRex

Member
but there's no reason you'd need aftermarket axles for your D. cheapie auto-part store replacements have a lifetime warranty for if they ever start clicking, and you aren't making enough power to snap them on a mostly stock N/A D. (no flames here, we all know D's can make that kind of power, but his isn't built). but if you have the money to throw away, by all means, grab some bullet proof axles and laugh when i break mine.
 

eastbxc

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but there's no reason you'd need aftermarket axles for your D. cheapie auto-part store replacements have a lifetime warranty for if they ever start clicking, and you aren't making enough power to snap them on a mostly stock N/A D. (no flames here, we all know D's can make that kind of power, but his isn't built). but if you have the money to throw away, by all means, grab some bullet proof axles and laugh when i break mine.
Oh I wouldn't be so sure. I have a staggering 71 horse power to the crank!!!!!! :D Yeah I just bought some cheap ones from Carquest with a lifetime warranty. There was someone else asking about aftermarket axles.
 
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