b-18a1 ef swap almost done but running rough

[youngguns4x4]

This is my first car becuase i've always driven trucks but i'm mechanically inclined and not a dumbass so i bought this ef and it sucked and someone had a b-18 with mounts and everything so i bout itfor $800 and its in. The swap is damn close to being over with and ready...i hope. Starting it idled really high so i unhooked the dashpot and it idles down. i'm throwing a 4 code and a 6 code. crank angle sensor seems to be wired up fine. i'm not sure about all of the vacuum lines. I haven't scene any good diagrams. The car is burning alot of gas. you can smell it in the white smoke billowing from it when u give it some throttle. it drives in first but it sound like it bounce the rev limiter at like 2500-3000 rpm. any help would be appreciated because i dont know a ton about this as someof the gurus on here. thank-travis

 

[bryan]

Check your MAP sensor and timing

 

[youngguns4x4]

Originally posted by bryan@Oct 5 2004, 07:18 AM
Check your MAP sensor and timing

[post=398452]Quoted post[/post]​

I'll check it. i'm trying to run vacuum lines right now and am having trouble because i'm using the ef map, and fuel reg. evaporation shit. so if anyone has a picture of there b-18 to ef swap it would be very helpful- thanks bryan

 

[bryan]

use an intergra map sensor i have a vacuum diagram for a b16a it might be the same let me see if i can find it also when you check your timing make sure the motor is at operating temp and you disable the advance by shorting the plug under the passengers sid of the dash it is a blue two pin conector 90-91 or under the hood 88-89 left frame rail

 

[CReX123]

Alrighty, I had the same exact problem as you dude. All you got to do is take the vacuum line that goes into the back of the manifold and T off vacuum line 21 together with that and hook it back up to where it was and it should idle alot better.(Autozone, like 2 bucks for a pack of T's)

You dont have to change anything, you just have to re-route some shit and you'll be fine.

 

[youngguns4x4]

Originally posted by CReX123@Oct 5 2004, 09:09 AM
Alrighty, I had the same exact problem as you dude.  All you got to do is take the vacuum line that goes into the back of the manifold and T off vacuum line 21 together with that and hook it back up to where it was and it should idle alot better.(Autozone, like 2 bucks for a pack of T's)

You dont have to change anything, you just have to re-route some shit and you'll be fine.

[post=398464]Quoted post[/post]​

Theres 2 vacuum lines that run into the back. If your look at it theres one one the left and one on the right. which is which.
thanks for the help you guys. i'll go work on it later. its going to be such a new expierence trying to make amy car fast instead of trying to make my truck suspension flex.

 

[CReX123]

It will be on your right. Do you have the stock manifold on there?
Try it out and let me know what happens

 

[youngguns4x4]

Originally posted by CReX123@Oct 6 2004, 09:05 AM
It will be on your right. Do you have the stock manifold on there?
Try it out and let me know what happens

[post=399013]Quoted post[/post]​

I believe i got that issue taken care of. I still havw codes 4 and 6 and it smokes really bad (white) when u give it throttle or try to drive it. like so bad that it looks like theres a bbq going on in the hatch. The smoke smells like gas really bad. The motot has an aem fuel press. reg. on it so i dunno what its running at. i'm going to try to put the stock one back on and see what happens. i have an injen intake that i bought used because i wanted to get it running that night but the I.D of the tube is real big compared to the O.D of the throttle body. I used electric tape to make it bigger for the night being to try to get it running but that didn't work to well. any ideas on what to do. i thought about maybe trying to fing some interooler connecters that reduce because no pvc plumbing connecters fit either ends.

 

[CReX123]

You shouldnt have to remove the fuel regulator at all, All you have to do is adjust it to stock settings. Also check your distributor timing, See if it is advanced, That might be your problem. Let Me Know.

 

[youngguns4x4]

Originally posted by CReX123@Oct 7 2004, 09:21 AM
You shouldnt have to remove the fuel regulator at all, All you have to do is adjust it to stock settings. Also check your distributor timing, See if it is advanced, That might be your problem. Let Me Know.

[post=399486]Quoted post[/post]​

I dont have a fuel pressure guage s it will be hard to tell if its at the stock setting. i'm going to mess with the dist. timing with the 'ole timing light. i'll try to get some pictures of it.