D16SiHatch
Active Member
That sounds right. all the wires should be the same color on both sides except for the large white wire and its corresponding yellow/green wire on the obd1 side.
b16 swap leaking oil...crappy idle...wtf
- Thread starter HATCHET_HONDA
- Start date
- Replies 31
- Views 7K
We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms
That sounds right. all the wires should be the same color on both sides except for the large white wire and its corresponding yellow/green wire on the obd1 side.
HATCHET_HONDA
scottie fizzle
so those are fine then i guess....well i tried switching those wires and it wouldnt even start at all...switched em back and now its fine. still not revving right tho. no tach yet but im guessing itll only rev to like 5k. also im producing white smoke from the exhaust and its idling horribly which leads me to believe that my head gasket didnt seal.
efhondakid
My name is Byron.
White smoke is burning coolant, did you just do a head gasket?
HATCHET_HONDA
scottie fizzle
yea.. i started from a bare block with this build. i used arp head studs and i may not have used the proper torque specs. the torque differs if you use their lubricant or 10w30 oil. im sure tightening them studs down more isnt gonn solve that. i may have to remove the head again. i have all winter yo do this swap so its all good i guess...just ordered my shift linkage..whoot
efhondakid
My name is Byron.
Tighten the studs in by hand, then 60ft/lbs on the nuts. And did you use an OEM head gasket or a cometic or fel pro fiber gasket? You need to use the OEM metal gasket, the fiibre ones burn through.
HATCHET_HONDA
scottie fizzle
is 60 ft lbs using their moly-lube or motor oil? i used the lube that came with the studs and if i remember right 60 sounds about what i torqued em to. and i used an oem metal gasket that came in an engine seal kit i bought. had everything from water pump seal to valve cover gasket. i used a cometic on my d series swap and had absolutely no problems with that one. i think im gonna pick one up this weekend and replace the head gasket. PITA tho.. takin the cams and everything back out..ugghhh
LILBLKCRXSI
New Member
I had the same issue ,In my case revving high was because i had the Iacv plug confused with the tandem valve plug(dx engine only), I switched them and voila' the rpms dropped to 1200 or so , i might have a vacum leak but i' working on it, I hope this helps.
HATCHET_HONDA
scottie fizzle
I had the same issue ,In my case revving high was because i had the Iacv plug confused with the tandem valve plug(dx engine only), I switched them and voila' the rpms dropped to 1200 or so , i might have a vacum leak but i' working on it, I hope this helps.
what color are those wires for the iacv? green and a red one right? cause when i modified the dx harness i cut the tandem plug off, taped the wires and stuffed em into the wire loom never to be seen again..lol soo if i got those 2 mixed up that kinda sucks
D16SiHatch
Active Member
There are 3 you dont use when its all said and done. 2 of which are for the old dpfi injectors, and one of them is for the tandem valve
LILBLKCRXSI
New Member
yellow and black and orange and ? , i'll look at my wires tomorrow and comfirm, GL.
HATCHET_HONDA
scottie fizzle
i took the head off today. i noticed one of the head studs wasnt down all the way. it seems the block had some rough threads where the head bolts go so it gave me a false torque reading when i tightened them down. i also noticed that the alt. bracket sits a bit high and hits the s2 intake mani cause that corner of the head not to seal properly. hopefully this new gasket seals
93civicracer
Oh, I do a little here and there.
I couldn't get the ARP's to go in at all on my d15b vtec when I did the head gasket, I had to chase the threads and vacuum the shit out of all the holes.
