B18C runs for 2 seconds then dies

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R

RotaryPWR

New Member
So I just swapped a B18C (obd2a) into a 98 civic ex (obd2a) and am using the stock B18C ECU.
Having some issues at startup. When I first turned the key, I heard the main relay, but no clicking of the starter. The previous owner had a crazy ground setup, so I simplified it down a bit and made sure the battery connections were good. Again, no clicking. So I tapped the starter with a hammer and tried again..fired up for just about 2 seconds then died.
Now a few things to note:
On startup, the engine sounds pretty rough. I'm pretty sure there's an exhaust leak between the header and block, so that's hopefully not a big concern. I tightened the bolts to spec, so I may have to get a new gaskett.
There was a big fuel leak that was caused by using the B18C fuel filter. I swapped in for the D16Y8 filter, and no more leak. Don't think this is an issue.
I'm using the Y8 throttle cable and the stock B18C bracket & location, so there is a bit of slack. When pressing the pedal down, it feels loose and barely pulls the throttle. Obviously I have to fix this, but I don't think this would cause the engine to shut off after startup, would it?
I changed the timing belt and waterpump with the engine out of the bay. I followed a combination of the haynes procedure and an online DIY perfectly, and checked again and again to see that timing stayed perfect as I turned the crank. I think the only place I could've gone wrong was when I reinstalled the pulleys. The intake cam should be good as I made sure the timing & up marks were in the right position while the dizzy was positioned at the 1st cylinder position (bottom left plug wire). Crank was positioned at TDC using the white mark. I didn't find any procedure for getting the exhaust cam to the cylinder 1 TDC position though..I'm pretty sure it didn't turn much as I removed the pulley, so I set it back using the timing & up marks. How can you check to make sure the timing is correct on the exhaust cam? I also feel like the belt had a bit more play then I'd expect. Right between the pulleys, I could push it down about half an inch..I feel like it should be tighter than this (yes, I turned the cam 3 teeth and tightened the tensioner)..is this a problem?
I've read some issues about mixing up TPS & MAP sensor wiring. I labelled all wires as I removed the harness, so I'm pretty sure that's not the issue. I may try swapping them just for fun..
Pretty sure all hoses and tubes are connected properly and shouldn't be leaking, but I'll triple check..
Anyways, I'll continue searching around, but if anyone can help me out with ideas, I'd really appreciate it!!
Thanks in advance!!
 
maybe a main relay? just a shot in the dark. also check 1.getting fire 2. getting fuel.
 
well i'm getting fuel as far as to the fuel rail at least..checked it when i replaced the filter. and it is getting a bit of fuel at startup..so unless it's not getting fed enough. but i'd think it'd run for longer than 2 seconds, wouldnt it?

i'll check the main relay, though it worked fine with my Y8..and i hear it when i turn the ignition..

put in new ngk plugs, but i'll check if they are giving a spark
 
forgot to mention that i broke my tps sensor while getting the motor into the bay. i swapped it with my Y8 sensor, which is supposed to be the same. i've heard things about calibrating the tps...should i have done this??
 
On the d16z6 if you break the tps sensor you have to basically replace the throttle body, When i recalibrate mine it had to be set at .45 v. The best i could get mine to was .5 v which is not to bad. You do this by loosening the 2 bolts on the tps and turn it. you will need a fluke meter to check the voltage i will try and find a tutorial on how to do this.
 
is an uncalibrated tps enough to cause these kind of problems? am i correct in thinking that its job is to sense the position of the throttle plate and then the ecu uses this to determine how much gas or spark to give?

i'm pretty sure my starter is a mess and needs to be replaced..it was humming, and now just clicks terribly when i try to start..

checked timing and it seems to be good (at least at the cam end). when i try to turn the crank, there is more resistance than there was when i changed the belt. this could be because i now have the alternator and p/s pump hooked up...but could it also be due to a faulty starter? it's consistant resistance as opposed to varying (i'd assume varying would mean poor timing?)
 
im not 100% sure but i never heard my main relay til it was bad and then came the clicking. id check that. had an issue with one after the alt went. car would start bog n die after few sec. replaced MR and its good. dunno bout ur obd2 but obd1(dunno why a z6 was brought up but....) tps has revits in it and if u break it just easier to replace the whole tb rather than drillin out tapin and screwing back in..
 
have you done anything with the map sensor? like switch the plugs between the tps and map sensor? make sure you got them on right, if you got them on right try starting the car with the map unplugged, if it starts and runs the map is your issue
 
Have you had someone hold the throttle open a little when you start it? sounds like you get an initial startup but the throttlebody plenum is closing after the initial startup.

You have a lot of issues going on at once which makes it hard to diagnose.
 
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just throwing in their, I did something similar and when I got the swap done I had the same issue and mine was timing, ecu tuning, distributor cap/rotor and coil. big thing though was the timing mine was off 3 teeth.
 
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