b18c1 into 00 ex ?s

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Preeetty sure those two wires at the bottom...one is what plugs into the o2 wire...the other plugs into the green plug on the power steering line...and the iat doesnt have anything in it.. because on my civic the iat is on the intake rubber tube...and not in the mannifold like the teg...so you leave that unpluged... because different plug style too. Let me know if im wrong.. but I used some window weld and took the civic iat drilled a hole in my k/n intake and window welded it in....and leave the iat empty... its the only way to explain why im missing plugs here lol....anyways let me know
 
My memory may be fuzzy on this. Haven't done a B-swap in 5 years. But I know my D16Z6 engine harness had a plug for everything. IAT is on the intake manifold (on the timing belt side). It was very close to the evap purge solenoid too. But my JDM B16A swap didn't have an evap purge. I eventually put a USDM IM on it and USDM ECU (B16A3 ECU)

All your EX plugs should work. All I had to do was Extend O2 and VTEC lines. Just make sure they're properly extended and plastic shield. Good to go.

Your Distributor plug should work too......weird if it doesn't. Check (google) numbers on dizzy to confirm its application.
 
Plus you need knock sensor and IAB plugs off that GSR motor and wire them up to the ECU.

It's OBD2....they had two O2 sensors.....right?
 
Plus you need knock sensor and IAB plugs off that GSR motor and wire them up to the ECU.

It's OBD2....they had two O2 sensors.....right?

Well on NY gsr the iat was on the manifold at the top my 00 ex harness used an iat sensor on the intake tube ..I was told not to use gsr iat unless I wanted to extend wire and change plug.. Iat was square on ex harness and a round Greg type in the gsr... every other plug fit. I scalped crank fluctuation sensor plug from ex and wired it into the the gsr sensor.. Ignoring the one wire that the civic plug didn't have. The two VTEC lines are all wired.. I scalped the ex dizzy ug and am wiring it now.. The two wires you thought were iat and something else I'm pretty sure the one round plug goes to the power steering line plug and the other goes to o2 sensor.. and yes there are 2 o2s but one comes out under the car and not off the main harness.. Let me know if u think I'm doing it wrong motor is going in tn! Acura gave me a cruise control cable instead of gsr throttle... So waiting on that..thanks for help!
 
No.

I thought you said it was O2 and PS. The opposite end of the harness is what goes Into the cabin. Only stuff that goes into the cabin are the three huge plugs that connect to the ECU.
 
Think he is just some random asking a question to us, anyways the motor is in.. looking to start it today or figure out my wiring is all beat...lol..Either way it should crank today. Here is a pic with it just handing there.. hood closes.. so thats good..one question tho... it looks like the alternator isnt going to fit at all... I realize ef guys have to make a dent to clear the pulley... but.. man it looks really really fucking tight..obviously i put the motor in.. no PS or no alternator (or brakcet attached).. so its hard tellin not knowing... but IDK... doesnt look like its going to fit.. im using civic si 99-00 post (what attached behind the timing belt cover)... and then the stock ex bracket to the single post stock ex motor mount... and on the passenger side.. its stock ex... stock ex rear mount with 99-00 si t bracket.. so I should be good to go right? oh well heres a pic ill find out more today. Thanks guys.

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okay update.. car is almost done.. i cant tell you you how much trouble i had getting the old bitch pin off of the integra motor (as I cut the linkage off cuz i couldnt get it out when i pulled the motor a year ago...) I ended up drilling it out.. 2 hours down the drain today.. another hour and half figuring out how the HELL that rear motor mount t bracket goes it.. cuz it was too much of a pain to be left on the motor or attached to the mount when putting the gsr in...So now tommorow.. I have to wire IAB (which ive found pretty much all the info i need on the subject..and figure out which wire on the integra dizzy is for the tach... cuz IM using 97 ecu... to avoid immobilizer...and wire that into the ecu... One QUESTION regaurding that... do i wire it in to the conversion harness or directly to the ecu? im guessing it doesnt matter....need some info on that... Put the axles in.. the new shift linkage..plug the ecu in and see how bad I screwed everything up...LOL! I must ask tho...when starting this motor (it had oil sitting in it the whole time it was in the garage.,.)...so I just.. remove spark plugs.. crank till oil light goes away and put plugs back in and then im good 2 go on starting it? And also Im throwing this diagram in... because its all expanded.. but are the things I circles... do they go to the can thats under the support bracket for the intake manifold? I dont see any splits and stuff in the civic like the diagram shows(3,15,16) so does 16 go directly to that black canister? cuz Ive ran out of nipple ends to hook vacuum lines up to lol... THanks again for all the help. will upload video of me popping vtec open header style tommorow or next day hopefully!

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Alternator will fit. You should've had it installed before putting motor in. Little easier that way.

I would change oil but if you think it's fine for start up...no biggy. No need to pull plugs before start. Just make sure coolant and oil are in there. You'll need to keep radiator cap off and fill coolant as needed (I would wait until thermostat opens up and radiator fan came on at least once).

If your jumper harness has lines for IAB's, and Knock Sensor....I'd use those. Much easier.
 
Canister will have a line from TB and purge solenoid.

Not sure what #7 is. But I wouldn't worry.
 
So I need some help.... after i got everything wired in.. the damn lower ball jounts just kept spinning and spinning... said fuck the boots... used a pickle fork...still couldnt get em off.. therefore cant put axles in.. the last thing i had to do..and I still dont have a car..so i figured.. fuck it... I got everything hooked up... threw the battery in, got in...chk engine as I knew it would.. cuz neither o2's are plugged in... no speed sensor plugged in.. just wanted to leave it in neutral and see if it started... I know my injector plugs are in correct order... timing belt never came off... and was running when i pulled motor... all wires are extended... plugged in.. and heatshrink and elec taped to death.. so they are shielded correctly.. I was meticulous when i I did the distributer wiring since i had to scalp the plug off my integra harness ...matched all colors... wires were butted using blue crimps... I hadnt shrink wrapped or taped em yet cuz.. well I wanted to see if it started... I havent run the tach line yet... cuz.. I didnt really care i just need my dang car back..but iab wire is ran to ecu..(red wire) and the black/yellow is going to manifold as a ground....I have my tranny to car ground wire hooked up... and the one off the valve cover to the radiator rail.. hooked up....NOW i plan to go over my my wires again in the morning.... take all the grounds off...wire brush them...I didnt have time to check for spark cuz my ride showed up to get me...and i was getting VERY frustrated after NEITHER lower ball joints would come back out...(anyone wanna run me through some.. IDGAF methods to get that damn 17 castle off the damn lower ball joint so i cant atleast put my axles in...? like I said pickle form destroyed the first boot i tried it on and still didnt help getting the castle nut off)

but heres what it did when i tried to start it...it cranked slow.. then faster and faster.,.. at one point the speedo was jump up to 20mph and back down to zero...I hear a clicking coming from the ecu/relay/fuse area on the passenger side... when i was cranking over... I could hear fuel pump engaging....now things I dont have plugged in are.. neither o2... no speed sensor...its not even in tranny( cuz thats were im putting my syncromesh in...if i ever get thesee friggin axles in... sigh...((((idk what to even do about these lower ball joints.. I hammered.. I had ppl stand on it...i dont have access to air tools...I used jack on just the ball joint end.. while trying to get castle off.. NOTHING))))... and the intake air temp sensor.. isnt plugged in cuz the intake tube is off. Now maybe its all that that wont allow it to start but I figured it would run... just with cel's....and I thought maybe the clicking would give ya'll some clues...Id appreciate it...fellow honda lovers... some help before i commit suicide lol...Ill be all over this thread all night....thnk you.

also side note yeah I WILL DEF PUT ALT IN BEFORE I PUT MOTOR IN NEXT TIME... many skin cells died in lieu of that damn alternator.. lol..oh and im using an ex harness too.. so knock sensor was part of harness...? right..?.Also if I rehook up battery. and try this again can i pull codes? it was deff getting oil pressure too.. when cranking oil light went off...and ofcourse I didnt a fresh oil change
 
Get all sensors hooked up. A CEL can be what you thought was wrong and more. I'm still curious why you had to rewire the dizzy. Did you check what dizzy you have?

I bang a heavy hammer on the lower arm. Sometimes I get the castle nut almost off the thread (but still on) and hit it with a hammer. It will eventually pop off and disconnect. A fork pry bar can be a pain in the ass.
 
Get all sensors hooked up. A CEL can be what you thought was wrong and more. I'm still curious why you had to rewire the dizzy. Did you check what dizzy you have?

I bang a heavy hammer on the lower arm. Sometimes I get the castle nut almost off the thread (but still on) and hit it with a hammer. It will eventually pop off and disconnect. A fork pry bar can be a pain in the ass.

well I had to balljoints popped once...but I put them back together to make a roller while i was wiring the gsr motor, and now they're doing the.. I will spin with the nut.. and say fuck you thing to me.. ill try more to get em off tom...and get some replacement boots.. the balljoints were replaced a year ago by previous owner..... the dizzy...and the gsr motor had the larger stlyle dizzy plug (2000gsr.) and the civic being 2000 had the smaller style.. all the wire colors were the same tho... Minus and extra one from the integra dizzy... which must be wired into ecu for the tach signal...unfortunately Im using 97 gsr ecu to avoid IMM from the 2000 ecu that was with the gsr.. and it still uses the dizzy for a tach signal rather than the ecu.. like the obd2b's..... but thats the least of my problems.. lol...and yeah... i can plug everything in.. but i know the rear o2 sensor was bad when it was on the d series.,.. but the front is good... and yeah I can throw on the intake.. and get the speed sensor in and plug it in... But the clicking and the speedo jumping seems electrical to me... I just have to go over all my wiring again...plug shit in..unplug it... check dizzy wiring.. and most importantly... make all the grounds shiny.. they looked kinda rustic... I appreciate the help man.. and one quick question are you the famous cafrog that made like 600whp on a stock k20 wayyyy back in the day and blew it up on the dyno? lol. thanks again
 
nice ty.. but mine is tight and needs to be loose... but axles arnt in.. I should've left em almost loose. but its my first time.,... not to mention this is the first thing i tried...but I will try again. not to mention...these ball joints are upside down :p
 
If they were popped loose and tightened to roll car around....they'll pop off. I have used a 2X4 and jack under the brake rotor to slightly raise the suspension (put tension upwards) and then whack the lower control arm with the hammer. Right where the ball joint is.

No 600whp K20. I'm only 227whp. I would like to see if someone else used my screen name. If you find a link....post it here.

Edit: can you scan for engine codes?
 
If they were popped loose and tightened to roll car around....they'll pop off. I have used a 2X4 and jack under the brake rotor to slightly raise the suspension (put tension upwards) and then whack the lower control arm with the hammer. Right where the ball joint is.

No 600whp K20. I'm only 227whp. I would like to see if someone else used my screen name. If you find a link....post it here.

Edit: can you scan for engine codes?

again why hit it with a hammer if its spinning... and is TIGHT... ofcourse i tightened it as a roller lol...I cant get it loose to hit it and pop the ball joint....thats the problem... I know it will pop. but getting it loose is the key. lol

and hold on
 
Has spark.. timing is correct and I can smell fuel from the header... I tried plugging iat in, speed sensor and the first o2...no difference...when I try to jump the ecu it just flashes 1 over and over and over....so idk....im lost now. maybe I have the plugs wrong? and oh which o2 do you have to extend.. cuz...mine reached just fine.. the first one anyways.. off the harness... let me know.. thanks!
 
Also.. today... I have spark...I have fuel.. I can hear fuel pump... cant tell if injectors are going...but i can smell gas coming from end of header...and the timing looks good.. popped cover off...both up arrows are pointing up at the same time.....Are my plugs messed up? and when i jump to check cel's.. it just keeps doing long flashes... untill i loose count... and this clicking noise seems to be coming from idk...between the fuse box by the battery and the ecu... but not coming from either of them...its so friggin weird... getting so discouraged.,.. anyone? help?
 
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