b7 block with y8 head

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ive got a y8 head + manifold + solenoid +etc. basically everything off the top is mine.


ive looked hi and low for an exact plug n play formula involving a d15b7 + y8 head, and cant find solid, seemingly 100% accurate (and non vague) trustworthy, relaible and useful information on the head swap pertaining to which belt, ecu, and injectors(z6 or 4age?) head studs, and compression.

i know that mini me head swaps are the most asked and subsequently the most hated on of questions, yo

i even ran into something that i read that seems rediculous(imagine that)... "you will loose hp with the mini me using the y8 head" ,,, this doesnt make any sense, b/c if increased compression = increased power output, then how could i be making less hp than with the 9:1ish of the b7 head? sounds like rubbish but im not sure b/c ive never done the swap. suposed to be around 10.5:1-11:1 somewhere, but still wont disturb the pistons making it a dooable swap

this is all i know thus far and am hoping that is correct:
-y8 head
-y8 manifold
-z6/y8 H gasket
-z6/p28 ecu
-ex/si or 4age redtop injectors
-vtec solenoid
-wire for vtec
-adjustable cam sprocket
-d15z1 T belt
-an oil cooler system
-an ebay gasket set

ive read that the p28 ecu will work fine the y8 head, and that all i need to do is run a wire from the vtec out on the ecu to the solenoid. hopefully this is all true.
ive read that i will need to use the vx timimng belt for some reason, dont know why.
ive read the cam timing will be 1/2 tooth off, so i will need to adjust that with the tunable cam sprocket
ive read that i wont need an oild cooler system, but im going to disregard b/c any engine could benifit over time with an oil cooler, that is if it sees frequent high rpm.
ive read that 4age smallport injectors will work as well, or just the ex/si ones from the EG only.

there is one serious issue i am trying to deal with:
how the fuck will i tune it? ive read that obd1 ecu's like the p28 dont have a serial diagnostics port which allow you to usb into them and reprogram/tune with your laptop alone. so, how do i tune my car if i cant usb into it?
ive read ill have to convert over to obd2 and run the y8 ecu. but ive read also that you cant usb in to the y8 ecu to tune it. yikes!
ive read i could use a piggyback, but is just a piggyback enough to turn out a relaible little fuel map that will be enough of a correction and allow me to change vtec engagement points?
i know about megasquirt and full blown standalones, but im thinking there has to be some hax that exist to get around that

ive been trying like hell to figure out if i should invest in a wideband 02 sensoer and gauge, b/c my header has the port available for it and ill need it if i cant usb into the ecu. but, wtf do i plug my lappy into then? and is hondata good enough software that will allow me to tune the ecu and control the parameters in real time? or is hondata just some sort of passive logging software that only displays how your engine is running and not actually let you CONTROL the ecu?

ive read about chipped ecus, but if they are set up for some "general" setup, then how could they work exactly correct for mine? ive heard they are b/s and not the answer. and ive heard a vafc will alow me to go only but so far. actually, im hoping i wont need to hax any further then just needing a small correction on the fuel and the ability to move vtec around where i want it, since the stock rpm limit of the p28 seems like a step up from the dx.

hopefully someone who has done this or knows enough about it to say knows the answers. thnx for reading.
use a z6 head instead along with z6 timing belt and dizzy, get a chipped p28 and y8 head gasket then bring all that shit to somebody else to do or you just keep clicking that search button. its a very easy way to gain HP if you just keep it simple. pretty much all your doing is swapping heads then running two wires from the ecu to the vtec sol and pressure switch. you might be able to get away with just running a unchipped p28 for a bit but if you do you will have to use higher octane to compensate for the compression bump and maybe back the timing off a few degrees.
This swap is really Simple and info gets skewed often.

Everything you need inclueds:

D16z6/ y8/ d15b vtec head, gasket, distributor and timing belt to match the head.
we had to take the head back off on my friends zc/z6 mini-me because it was kickin the cel for the vtec pressure switch.turned out the oil jet had to be removed from the block so oil pressure didn't drop below 50 psi during upper r's. the cel would only come on after pushing the car close to redline, but after the jet was removed it ran fine. didn't know how common the problem was untill i started reading thread after thread of the same prob with no answers,or mayb everyone just stopped posting when the fixed the problem.