Been away from the Honda camp, need tech info on new build.

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95b16coupe

Well-Known Member
alright im not a honda guy but im tryin to get into them.. i need some info on a 95 civic hatchback 5speed with a B18b non vtec in it.. is it a good car? HELP PLEASE i've always wanted a honda and now i can get one help me make informed decision...
start a new thread. dont' threadjack
 

99sidude

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Understood. Since Ive never even looked at the JRSC kit, whats the reason for that valve? Why dont they want it to work like a traditional S/C?

Having that valve lets the engine run like a stock N/A engine while normally driving. If you didn't have it, the engine would be constantly be sucking in the hot, compressed air charge. It works the same way that a wastegate on a turbo prevents the car from boosting while cruising down the road.
 

Briansol

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in a perfect world we would have a car with 50/50 balance and 300 hp n/a hp.
they do. it's called an e46 m3. :)


K's will run you up to your 10k budget pretty easily if you go jdm vs usdm, and the kpro, etc. i assume you'll want to use some of that 10k for brakes, suspension, wheels/tires, etc.

i'm still not sold on the k-series. they are pretty sweet, but the cost is too much IMO when you can (for a street car at least) make a damn fast car without having to touch the K at all.

at the end of the day, it's up to you want you want to do.

The k24 is not much heavier than a bseries block... in fact, the k24 is lighter than the h22 if i rememebr correctly.
 

Briansol

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oh, and post more pics of Ms Leggs in the G/f picture thread in the lounge area :)
 

evin

New Member
"Also, correct me if I am wrong, but it would seem that doing a similar swap on an EG as I did in my EM1, would bemuch less complicated then a K series swap in the same chassis?"

what did you do in your em1?

Like I said the k swap is not realy a complicated swap Ive done two k swaps one in a em1/es and my hatch ek/ej. Ive also done b and h swaps and they can be just as complicated if not more and require the same amount of swap parts depending on how you go about doing them.

"what trim level hatch should I look for? Like I said, I still want AC/PS/power windows & locks, however I dont want something super heavy."

ex/hx/lx

"whats the weight difference between the 92-95 hatches and the 96+ hatches (not counting the pig-ass EP3 of course)."

96-00 hatches are lighter then 92-95 from what ive seen and dont rust as much unless you get a 96 they rust just the same as a 92-95 but are the lightest out of them all.
Eather way your hatch is going to be fast the stock weight of a 03 4 door weighs 200lbs more then my 98 hatch stock after k20a2 swap and only a cat back apex'i n1 the 4 door ran 13s. Other then the cat back all was stock including the ecu.:eek: :eek:
 

K2e2vin

Senior Member
No matter how well they are designed, they are still a blockage that holds the coolant up. If your just lookin for some kind of support for piece of mind, youd be better off posting your block. Still not as good as sleeves, but better than a block gaurd.

I disagree. Posts support a different area of the sleeve, and could be used in conjunction with a block guard. Reason why most people don't run block guards is because they're not really needed while block posts support the area of the cylinder that's subjected to the most stress because of the rod angle. Both just keep the cylinders from moving. If you see the coolant passages in the head gasket, you can see that most block guards do not impede flow(if it did, it would be easy to modify anyways), and if anything most block guards would act as a heatsink which would increase the surface area of the coolant jacket.

Keep your stock motor and just build that. K's make a lot of power but require more work and money. If that's something you can do, go for it, otherwise, keep it simple. :)

Also, I believe the 96-00 are heavier than the older ones...the 88-91 and the lower-trim 92-95s are the lightest.

For comparison; the lowerst trim(all MT):
1988 Honda Civic Std. hatchback: 1933lbs
1992 Honda Civic CX hatchback: 2094lbs
1996 Honda Civic CX hatchback: 2222lbs
 

MisterMister

USDM whore
"Also, correct me if I am wrong, but it would seem that doing a similar swap on an EG as I did in my EM1, would bemuch less complicated then a K series swap in the same chassis?"

what did you do in your em1?

Like I said the k swap is not realy a complicated swap Ive done two k swaps one in a em1/es and my hatch ek/ej. Ive also done b and h swaps and they can be just as complicated if not more and require the same amount of swap parts depending on how you go about doing them.

"what trim level hatch should I look for? Like I said, I still want AC/PS/power windows & locks, however I dont want something super heavy."

ex/hx/lx

"whats the weight difference between the 92-95 hatches and the 96+ hatches (not counting the pig-ass EP3 of course)."

96-00 hatches are lighter then 92-95 from what ive seen and dont rust as much unless you get a 96 they rust just the same as a 92-95 but are the lightest out of them all.
Eather way your hatch is going to be fast the stock weight of a 03 4 door weighs 200lbs more then my 98 hatch stock after k20a2 swap and only a cat back apex'i n1 the 4 door ran 13s. Other then the cat back all was stock including the ecu.:eek: :eek:

If you look at my first post in this thread, I mention by last Civic build (my EM1 '00 Civic Si, which was stolen last x-mas). Here is a shortened mods list:

B18C5 long block (bought new from Acura)
B16A2 head (reworked stock head from the original motor)
3 angle valve job
Ferra SS valves
Ferra Ti retainers & springs
RC 370cc injectors
JDM ITR header
Password JDM, "J's Racing" style carbon fiber intake (AKA the whale penis)
Omni Power 2.5" test pipe
RS*R EX-Mag cat-back exhaust
Exedy full face clutch
ACT 12lb street-lite flywheel
Energy Suspension motor mount inserts
Energy Suspension shifter bushings
B&M S bend stainless steel short shifter
JDM CTR shifter boot
JDM Accord-R 5spd billet shifter knob
AEM "big brake kit" 12" slotted front rotors, 11" rear rotors (stock calipers)
BF Goodridge stainless steel braided brake lines
Hawk HPS brake pads
KYB AGX shocks/struts
Skunkworks GS-R coilovers (original, not Skunk 2)
SRR rear lower tie bar
Walboro 190lph fuel pump
Rota Circuit 8 16" rims (gunmetal)
Hankook Ventus RS2 tires (215-45-16)
Uberdata chipped P28 ECU
Skunk 2 Stage 2 cams
Skunk 2 cam gears
Spoon Sports 2 layer HG
milled head (.30mm)
Skunk 2 intake manifold
Hondata intake manifold polyurethane gasket
BBK 65mm port matched TB
Dyno tuned by Bubba @ Do-It-Dyno

There are pictures of everything in the initial post as well.

Also, are you SURE about the 96-00 hatches being LIGHTER then the EGs? That goes against what I've thought for well over a decade now. Plus the addition of things like mandatory passenger side air bags would lead me to further believe that these models weigh more. Can anyone confirm this? IN all honesty, Id rather get a newer chassis, so an 99-00 would be ideal, but I REALLY hate the tail lights on those hatches. I really wish they changed them to the rectangular versions like on my old EM1. Also, as far as rust goes, I live in southern California where it NEVER snows and rains maybe 10-15 days out of the year, so its not too much if an issue as long as the car has remained here for its life.

Finally, I'm getting conflicting info on block guards. Now, I've always thought that a properly designed guard would be just fine reliability wise, so if anyone has proof to the contrary, please speak up.

Thanks again,

-Joe

EDIT: I see the person above posted the curb weights for the different chassis'. Thank you. Question though, does the CX come with PS/AC/Power windows & locks (at least as options)? Also did you chose the CX due to it being lighter then any other trim levels?

BTW, I am really leaning towards using a B18C5 engine (stock internals) & transmission combined with a JRSC running with the 9PSI pulley upgrade. Combined with I/H/E, cams, and dyno tune, it should put out quite a bit more then an NA K20 is going to make, especially torque wise.

...Speaking of cams and a JRSC, does one want to use "turbo" cams with overlap designed for said FI cars or would it be better to get NA style cams like the Skunk Stage 2's I had on my last engine? This is less straight forward given that the JRSC bypasses unless at or near WOT.
 
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K2e2vin

Senior Member
CX had A/C as an option I believe, but no PS or power windows(going off of my brother's CX and my cousins' CX, both are '93). A coworker has a 94 CX that has A/C also. May be standard, I don't know. My brother's CX has a DX engine in it, got it for MPG, and my cousin has a LSVTEC in his, for drag racing. My coworker uses his mainly for autocross. Yes, weight was a factor in all those decisions except for my cousin; he only went from a 94 Si to a 93 CX because something happened to the Si.

I have a 88 Std, and I got that because it was lightest of the Civics and that's my favorite body style/gen(I had two 88 CRX DX's prior and I'm not really a fan of the smaller rear end).

As far as the cams, I'd imagine a "stage 2" would work fine with FI. The FI spec cams usually have mild duration but a little more lift.
 

MisterMister

USDM whore
Sweet, thanks guys.

Although I might have a line on a 01 DC2 ITR shell (yes, a REAL USDM ITR shell). It was stolen and had a surgical strip, but the chassis and even the paint is in near perfect shape! If all goes well, this will be the basis of my new build. I will most likely be going with a B18C5 long block & tranny, I/H/E, cams, JRSC, 9PSI JRSC pully, Hondata and dyno tune.

Id say that would make for a pretty killer DD/Auto-X weekend warrior.

Of course, this isnt finalized, so time will tell. Heres going in with my fingers crossed.

BTW, anyone have dyno figures on a B18C5 + BPU and a 9PSI JRSC?
 

h22a1stroked

fullybuilt inc
Whats going on guys.

Let me give you a little background on my self. I had been pretty into the Honda scene for a good 10 years. Starting out with a Del Sol with BPU upgrades (sold), and ending up with a pretty tricked out 00' Civic Si coupe (stolen).

I have since moved on to RWD cars, getting an S13 240 and a '91 SW21 Toyota MR2. I am now looking at getting back into the Honda scene after doing some soul searching and research. I really did love my Si to death and have come to further love that car (even after it's loss), making the decision even easier.

Now, all that being said, I am wrestling with the idea of putting together a hatch, as so many before have done. I always wanted a hatch, even when I was building my Si coupe due to its modability and its light weight. Not to mention the fact that I think these are some of the better looking Hondas to come out in the 90s.

After some thought, I have almost made up my mind to build an EG hatch. The recent article in SS about the K20 powered JDM sweet EG hatch have even further blown my thoughts in the direction.

Now, I was thinking of going with the tried and true LS-VTEC turbo build, but now I am not so sure. The K series swaps are looking better and better, and their power production is such that I might not even bother going FI. However, this is where it gets tricky.

I am a B series guy. Always have been. Thus, I know jack squat about the newer K series swaps other then the fact that they came some decent power in NA builds and that there are a myriad of swap options available for all sorts of Honda chassis.

This is where you come in. I am thinking of a K24 swap due to the better drivability and increased torque, but that raises further questions such as available aftermarket parts, maximum potential, and swapability. Right now, I am looking for a straight swap without ant custom fabrication. If that means going with a premade engine mount kit, so be it, but I would rather not have to do any firewall work or the like, nor do I want to loose things such as AC and power steering.

Furthermore, I am looking to keep at or near the stock curb weight. No gutting the chassis. No massive diet plans. I like my hearing and am not too keen on removing all of the sound deadening material. That being said, I dont want a simple 14 second car. If this is going to ba an NA build, I want this thing to be at least deep into the 13s, all while keeping its composure and drivability on the street and at the auto-x.

Anyway, the bottom line is this:

I am looking for;

Daily drivability
Modability
At least mid 13 second ETs
Balance for competitive auto-x and road race events

With all that in mind, I welcome your comments and advice. Any and all will be welcome. Furthermore, I thank you in advance for anything you may offer.

-Joe

Edit: If anyone cares, here is my old ride:

B18C5 long block
B16A2 head
SS valves
Ti retainers & springs
RC 370cc injectors
JDM ITR header
Password JDM J's Racing style carbon fiber intake
Omni Power 2.5" test pipe
RS*R EX-Mag cat-back exhaust
Exedy full face clutch
ACT 12lb street-lite flywheel
Energy Suspension motor mount inserts
Energy Suspension shifter bushings
B&M S bend stainless steel short shifter
JDM CTR shifter boot
JDM Accord-R 5spd billet shifter knob
AEM 12" slotted front rotors, 11" rear rotors
BF Goodridge stainless steel braided brake lines
Hawk HPS brake pads
Motoul RBF600 brake fluid
KYB AGX shocks/struts
Skunkworks GS-R coilovers (original, not Skunk 2)
SRR rear lower tie bar
Walboro 190lph fuel pump
Rota Circuit 8 16" rims (gunmetal)
Hankook Ventus RS2 tires (215-45-16)
Uberdata chipped P28 ECU (chrome)
Skunk 2 Stage 2 cams
Skunk 2 cam gears
Spoon Sports 2 layer HG
milled head (.30mm)
Skunk 2 intake manifold
Hondata intake manifold polyurethane gasket
BBK 65mm port matched TB
Dyno tuned by Bubba @ Do-It-Dyno

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waz up bro iv been around the scene for 13yrs still going strong you have good motors to work with i dont mess with the k20 becouse your going to wast alot of money unless u have deep pockets what i would suggest what i did 6 month ago h22a1 prelude in a hatch u will run 12's with less money i run 13.1 1/2 in a 96 civic coupe just put in a crower stroker kit now a 2.4L and head work crower springs/retainers act clutch/flywheel/plate and a crome program for the stock comp i run 12.2s now i only spent $6,000 think about it h22a1 or Ls vetec great combo.
 
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