bleeding brakes

knowledge

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Bro if you are bleeding your brakes at the track, you have more serious problems to worry about than having the bleeder hose w/ valve.
 

phunky.buddha

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No, not really. At the drag strip- yes, you have problems... but if you're hitting up a heavy duty road course, I don't see why bleeding your brakes in the pits at the end of the day or before your heats would be a problem.
 

knowledge

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If you build up that much air into your system during the course of a day at the auto-x track. You HAVE serious probs bro. I can under stand bleeding them at the beginning of the day before you race. Not in between every heat though.
 

phunky.buddha

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I'm not talking about autocross... I'm talking about several days running half hour heats at a road course where you're slowing from 140 to 40 over and over again.

I agree though- if you're bleeding between heats, you've got other problems... but the option is there.
 

wildbillhatchbac

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two helpful hints. . .

always bleed honda brakes in this order. . RR, RF, LR, LF

and if you have an older master cylinder. . push the brake pedal about half way down while bleeding. traveling the normally untraveled distance al the way to the floor can damage the seals inside your master. I've seen this happen on a few older models.

*edit . . .hehe i had two LFs
 

phunky.buddha

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Hmm I never heard of that order... I always went either:

RR -> LF -> LR -> RF

or

RR -> LR -> RF -> LF

Gotta go check the Helms... :D
 

B16

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i do RR -> LR -> RF -> LF, cuz i thought you were supposed to start with the one farthest from the master cylinder and work your way up to the closest?
 

phunky.buddha

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Originally posted by wildbillhatchbac@Dec 20 2002, 10:12 AM
actually honda says to do it it this way

RR, LF, LR, RF

i had a brain fart. . . thanks for catchin it. . .how'd it smell . . hehe

Ah HA! So I was right... bleed in diagonal pairs starting farthest from the master cylinder.

:eek: :D :lol:
 

phunky.buddha

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Originally posted by civicracer901@Jan 3 2003, 08:06 AM
hmm. didn't know this. Why though? I still get the same results going RR,LR,RF and LF.

The lines are connected diagonally, then go to the master cylinder. Bleed in diagonal pairs, and you clear out all the air in one line first, then the other. It's the best way to go.
 

civicracer901

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Does anyone know why iam not getting the right pressure. I'll tell you step by step what I did. I went to the RR of the car bleed there then following the rest of the order. Iam still not getting the right pressure. Its still taking to much pedal effort to brake. :blink:
 

GSRCRXsi

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try starting from the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder and work your way closer. i know people have said to do it the diagonal method but ive done this and it always worked for me. hope this helps.
 

civicracer901

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I have a 88 hatchback civic. I doubt that changes anything around. I will do it again. thanks though. ;) such a easy job and I have to make it so difficult.
 

GSRCRXsi

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make sure ur not leaking fluid from anywhere, if you are you will loose pressure in your system, making it near impossible to brake. but if all else fails man, jus take it to a shop or sumthing.
 

phunky.buddha

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Originally posted by civicracer901@Jan 6 2003, 02:18 PM
Does anyone know why iam not getting the right pressure. I'll tell you step by step what I did. I went to the RR of the car bleed there then following the rest of the order. Iam still not getting the right pressure. Its still taking to much pedal effort to brake. :blink:

Look in your shop manual- there's a brake testing procedure in there that will tell you if anything is wrong with your booster or your master cylinder. You seals could be going out in the master cylinder, or you could have a leak- my girlfriend's 88 Civic LX has a leak somewhere in the master cylinder that's causing the RR and LF to always have bubbles in the fluid...

Swapping your master cylinder is pretty easy- so if that's what's wrong, replace it.
 
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