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p.s. there's that butt hurt rearing its ugly head again.
p.s. there's that butt hurt rearing its ugly head again.
Brad's ~EPIC~ EF Hatchy DD Build
- Thread starter GlassHeadlights
- Start date
- Replies 52
- Views 7K
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GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
These guys have weld-in rust repair panels, I was going to get one for the CRX.Rust Repair Panels
About $30 for each quarter and $44 for rocker panels. I could learn to weld better and attempt to restore the hatch then do a good job of the CRX.
There are still tons of descent Hondas where I am (on an island). We're kind of stuck in time here, clean cars stick around.
Car:
Whats the best stuff to stiffen up my stock motor mounts with? 3M window sealant or something?
Window Weld......yes it works. I just did a friend's A/C mount with it. From my readings...its best for you to take the mount out and degrease it well. After you have applied it, let it cure for at least a day.....but two would be better. So that's what I did (2days) and it came out nice. I used a paint stir to apply it......its kinda like icing a cake. We'll see where its at in 6+ months.
I used window weld on all my mounts when I did my swap. I would recommend giving it more than two days to cure. Two days would be fine for a window, but windows don't handle torque on a daily basis, and we all know Brad likes to run his cars hard. I have had mine in for a year now and they still feel strong and sturdy.
GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
Sounds good! To Home Depot I go.
94civicturbo
Member
i used the energy mount inserts on my EF when i had it, they felt nice, but since you are on a budget the window weld should work fine (the inserts are cheap though)
I looked up a couple of threads via a Google search on filling motor mounts. When I did mine, (engine swap) I changed the left, right and rear mounts, replacing them with the Drop Engineering mounts I got the good deal on.
For the front mount, I ordered a new OEM mount from the nearby dealer. I went with an OEM because on the front I stiffened it up with an Energy Suspension kit.
I think filling them is a pretty good idea. Clean up good first, prolly lacquer thinner and a brush would be nice - keep that shit outta yer eyes for sure.
I considered using RTV on the front mount. But the old one was in such shitty condition, I replaced it and since it was then new, went with the ES reinforcement kit. The original was so worn and loose I figured I could never get it aligned correctly for the stuff to set.
I was on a couple of threads guys using Liquid Polyurethane claiming is was a bit softer when it set than the Window Weld. The Drop Engineering mounts on my hatch, along with the ES augmented front mount transfer quite a bit of vibration to the chassis - I don't care - just mentioning it.
One thing for sure - it totally shifts better - way better with the beefed up new motor mounts. Shifting is nice, both up and down.
Mirrors rattle when it idles now - they smooth out when moving so they still work when driving.
For the front mount, I ordered a new OEM mount from the nearby dealer. I went with an OEM because on the front I stiffened it up with an Energy Suspension kit.
I think filling them is a pretty good idea. Clean up good first, prolly lacquer thinner and a brush would be nice - keep that shit outta yer eyes for sure.
I considered using RTV on the front mount. But the old one was in such shitty condition, I replaced it and since it was then new, went with the ES reinforcement kit. The original was so worn and loose I figured I could never get it aligned correctly for the stuff to set.
I was on a couple of threads guys using Liquid Polyurethane claiming is was a bit softer when it set than the Window Weld. The Drop Engineering mounts on my hatch, along with the ES augmented front mount transfer quite a bit of vibration to the chassis - I don't care - just mentioning it.
One thing for sure - it totally shifts better - way better with the beefed up new motor mounts. Shifting is nice, both up and down.
Mirrors rattle when it idles now - they smooth out when moving so they still work when driving.
GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
The Innovative mounts I'm using on the B16 swap are poly-u. I love em. I get the same vibrations - mirrors, interior pieces and the hood bounces lol. And yes! Totally makes better shifting and power transfer when the motor rocks back and forth. I want ES front cross member bushings to complete it. 
Ive got no problem with filling these stock ones, can't hurt at all. I was also thinking of filling the rear trailing arm ones too while I was at it.
Today I tested out a 4' straight pipe (locals haterize me) on the beast. It picks up a lot of lower RPM range but the econo inspired Y7 head sucks. The cam peaks at around 5600, every time I shift it's happier to pull below that. Oh well, going back to A6 status anyway.
Ive got no problem with filling these stock ones, can't hurt at all. I was also thinking of filling the rear trailing arm ones too while I was at it.
Today I tested out a 4' straight pipe (locals haterize me) on the beast. It picks up a lot of lower RPM range but the econo inspired Y7 head sucks. The cam peaks at around 5600, every time I shift it's happier to pull below that. Oh well, going back to A6 status anyway.
GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
While I was enjoying my hangover sleep on sunday my dad took my keys and ripped the motor out of the hatch. 
So I never got to reinforce the mounts or scrub the bay as I'd like.
No real problem, its getting done.
We finished building the motor on Friday. I checked over the block again and the hone job they did was so shitty, more like a scuff. Oh well it made compression. The rings and bearings are said to be new aswell. The water pump looked origional, it was pretty seized, so its also changed out for a good spare. Re-installed the oil jet cause it was running a VTEC head before. Then we slapped the A6 head back on with a new cam seal and slipped on a good timing belt. We have a dead D15B7 that I took the valve cover from, I'm gonna paint it once its up and running.
The clutch was good, but I changed it for a better lookin one anyway and cleaned the whole unit. Everything is connected, we just need oil for the motor and trans then coolant.
Spent $117 on new NGK Platinum plugs (wont have any other plugs), new FelPro headgasket and a CherryBomb Glasspack.
So I never got to reinforce the mounts or scrub the bay as I'd like.No real problem, its getting done.
We finished building the motor on Friday. I checked over the block again and the hone job they did was so shitty, more like a scuff. Oh well it made compression. The rings and bearings are said to be new aswell. The water pump looked origional, it was pretty seized, so its also changed out for a good spare. Re-installed the oil jet cause it was running a VTEC head before. Then we slapped the A6 head back on with a new cam seal and slipped on a good timing belt. We have a dead D15B7 that I took the valve cover from, I'm gonna paint it once its up and running.
The clutch was good, but I changed it for a better lookin one anyway and cleaned the whole unit. Everything is connected, we just need oil for the motor and trans then coolant.
Spent $117 on new NGK Platinum plugs (wont have any other plugs), new FelPro headgasket and a CherryBomb Glasspack.
GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
The new motor has been the most powerful yet! And it doesn't use any oil!
I'm now selling it to a good buddy, he gets any EF parts he wants to complete this thing. Its been a short build haha.
I'm now selling it to a good buddy, he gets any EF parts he wants to complete this thing. Its been a short build haha.
GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
The new motor has been the most powerful yet! And it doesn't use any oil!
I'm now selling it to a good buddy, he gets any EF parts he wants to complete this thing. Its been a short build haha.
I'm now selling it to a good buddy, he gets any EF parts he wants to complete this thing. Its been a short build haha.
