Brad's ~EPIC~ EF Hatchy DD Build

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GlassHeadlights

West West Yall
I would really think about dealing with the rust but maybe you don't mind running this little EF'r into the ground. I been around Hondas for a while and I remmeber seeing lots of clean EF hatches back in the 90's....now they are more scarce in Cali. That tells me that they must be even more scarce in colder climates. This one can survive still. At least tape it off......grind it down a little, prime it and paint it. I got a rattle can to match my color for less than $10 (U.S. dollar yo!) at a PPG store. Its a one-step system with clear already in it.

:hmm: These guys have weld-in rust repair panels, I was going to get one for the CRX.

Rust Repair Panels

About $30 for each quarter and $44 for rocker panels. I could learn to weld better and attempt to restore the hatch then do a good job of the CRX.

There are still tons of descent Hondas where I am (on an island). We're kind of stuck in time here, clean cars stick around.


Car:

Whats the best stuff to stiffen up my stock motor mounts with? 3M window sealant or something?
 

CAFROG

Honda Minion
VIP
Window Weld......yes it works. I just did a friend's A/C mount with it. From my readings...its best for you to take the mount out and degrease it well. After you have applied it, let it cure for at least a day.....but two would be better. So that's what I did (2days) and it came out nice. I used a paint stir to apply it......its kinda like icing a cake. We'll see where its at in 6+ months.
 

fionntan

Banned
I used window weld on all my mounts when I did my swap. I would recommend giving it more than two days to cure. Two days would be fine for a window, but windows don't handle torque on a daily basis, and we all know Brad likes to run his cars hard. I have had mine in for a year now and they still feel strong and sturdy.
 
i used the energy mount inserts on my EF when i had it, they felt nice, but since you are on a budget the window weld should work fine (the inserts are cheap though)
 

Dual-500

Well-Known Member
VIP
I looked up a couple of threads via a Google search on filling motor mounts. When I did mine, (engine swap) I changed the left, right and rear mounts, replacing them with the Drop Engineering mounts I got the good deal on.

For the front mount, I ordered a new OEM mount from the nearby dealer. I went with an OEM because on the front I stiffened it up with an Energy Suspension kit.

I think filling them is a pretty good idea. Clean up good first, prolly lacquer thinner and a brush would be nice - keep that shit outta yer eyes for sure.

I considered using RTV on the front mount. But the old one was in such shitty condition, I replaced it and since it was then new, went with the ES reinforcement kit. The original was so worn and loose I figured I could never get it aligned correctly for the stuff to set.

I was on a couple of threads guys using Liquid Polyurethane claiming is was a bit softer when it set than the Window Weld. The Drop Engineering mounts on my hatch, along with the ES augmented front mount transfer quite a bit of vibration to the chassis - I don't care - just mentioning it.

One thing for sure - it totally shifts better - way better with the beefed up new motor mounts. Shifting is nice, both up and down.

Mirrors rattle when it idles now - they smooth out when moving so they still work when driving.
 

GlassHeadlights

West West Yall
The Innovative mounts I'm using on the B16 swap are poly-u. I love em. I get the same vibrations - mirrors, interior pieces and the hood bounces lol. And yes! Totally makes better shifting and power transfer when the motor rocks back and forth. I want ES front cross member bushings to complete it. :)

Ive got no problem with filling these stock ones, can't hurt at all. I was also thinking of filling the rear trailing arm ones too while I was at it.

Today I tested out a 4' straight pipe (locals haterize me) on the beast. It picks up a lot of lower RPM range but the econo inspired Y7 head sucks. The cam peaks at around 5600, every time I shift it's happier to pull below that. Oh well, going back to A6 status anyway.
 

double0Si

ლ(ಠ益ಠლ)
VIP
Definetly better response and logically so. Any power (torque) that is used in flexing the motor is power lost for the pavement.
 

GlassHeadlights

West West Yall
While I was enjoying my hangover sleep on sunday my dad took my keys and ripped the motor out of the hatch. :eek: :glare: So I never got to reinforce the mounts or scrub the bay as I'd like.

No real problem, its getting done. :dunno:

We finished building the motor on Friday. I checked over the block again and the hone job they did was so shitty, more like a scuff. Oh well it made compression. The rings and bearings are said to be new aswell. The water pump looked origional, it was pretty seized, so its also changed out for a good spare. Re-installed the oil jet cause it was running a VTEC head before. Then we slapped the A6 head back on with a new cam seal and slipped on a good timing belt. We have a dead D15B7 that I took the valve cover from, I'm gonna paint it once its up and running.

The clutch was good, but I changed it for a better lookin one anyway and cleaned the whole unit. Everything is connected, we just need oil for the motor and trans then coolant.

Spent $117 on new NGK Platinum plugs (wont have any other plugs), new FelPro headgasket and a CherryBomb Glasspack. :D
 

GlassHeadlights

West West Yall
The new motor has been the most powerful yet! And it doesn't use any oil! :D

I'm now selling it to a good buddy, he gets any EF parts he wants to complete this thing. Its been a short build haha.
 

GlassHeadlights

West West Yall
The new motor has been the most powerful yet! And it doesn't use any oil! :D

I'm now selling it to a good buddy, he gets any EF parts he wants to complete this thing. Its been a short build haha.
 
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