Drifting not to be...

[Punisher]

I figured that as well but a group of fellas told me they are able to repair the busted can with warranty so gonna give it a go since its my first 'everyday car' but still have my doubts, only glad when I was given a choice to swap a D15B VTEC and a JDM B16A (yeah, its lying around under some boxes for 2-3 years already, clocked about 70K miles, super clean internals), I chose the former for reasons unknown at that time will probably save the B16A for another chassis if required.

Will post some pics of the repair progress.

 

[asmallsol]

From what I can see, your going to have to replace the trailing arm, lower control arm, rear subrame, as well as pulling out the area where the subframe pushed in the unibody. It's going to be pretty expensive.

 

[Punisher]

After one long week of hammering, buffing, torching and frame pulling. Somehow managed to get the rear subframe portion straightened out, more or less. We put in the replacement trailing arm and compared distances left side by right side, its tough, even when equal there is no guarantee of alignment. We haven't even touched or inspected the left front!! Probably tomorrow, after some minor adjustments and putting back the gas tank.

http://photobucket.com/albums/a34/Punisher...italized001.jpg

http://photobucket.com/albums/a34/Punisher...italized002.jpg

If anything fails, will probably look for a new chassis. :unsure:

 

[Punisher]

One question - Is the 96-00 Civic front knuckle the same as the 92-95 Civic front knuckle? (both for 10" rotor setup). Are their curvatures the same? I replaced my left front knuckle from a Civic EK (coded S04?) while my right front knuckle is SR3. While the car is up on the hydro lift, I could feel the gap between the front knuckle and the springs are significantly different on both sides. If they are the same then I suspect some other components may have been bent in the crash but unnoticed as they are so hard to spot.

Thanks for your replies.


UPDATE:

After over 2 weeks, they managed to straightened the frame. Running thru and fro from the frame repair chart. Taking measurements over and over and over again.

Cost of the frame repair expertise/workmanship - $500

Cost of new Honda OEM 15" alloy rims - $175 (old or new chassis, have to spend) Its actually from the new Civic 1.7, somebody gave them up at a nearby outfit to swap for 17 or 18s. I think they look good on my '92 Civic. Will post pics later.

Also found a used Tanabe sustec lowering spring set for $45. I think it goes down 1.6" all around. The springs were exactly the same length as the oem shocks, not sure if they are right. While replacing the springs, found the front shocks were actually sort of jammed. Got them replaced with tokicos (stock specs) for $75.

I also got to install a lower rear stabilizer bar which I bought with 2 matching lower control arms from an EG9 for $25.


Yeah, the whole damn thing cost just over a $K. after adding the left rear trailing arm and front knuckle.

 

[asmallsol]

yes, the 5th gen knuckles are diffrent then the 6th gen knuckles. Hmotorsonline sell GSR brakes for 75 plus shipping. Cheapest way to go imo, plus its a good upgrade to the bigger calipers and rotors.

 

[Punisher]

Originally posted by asmallsol@Aug 5 2005, 06:13 PM
yes, the 5th gen knuckles are diffrent then the 6th gen knuckles. Hmotorsonline sell GSR brakes for 75 plus shipping. Cheapest way to go imo, plus its a good upgrade to the bigger calipers and rotors.

[post=536348]Quoted post[/post]​

So should I get the front right knuckle from a 96-00 Civic as well to balance them out? Not sure if they would work in a 92-95 Civic.

How big are the GSR rotors? 10.5"?


Thanks.

 

[Punisher]

Asked to test drive my car today. Felt totally different especially with the lowering springs, especially when cornering, moving off and braking. It will take a while to get used to. I can't tell what's wrong with it yet (not that there are anything wrong) perhaps on the highway, will be able to tell. I got the alignment results back, a jargon of angles provided, can't tell what its all about but they told me its aligned. The relief is that a camber kit is not needed for the lowering.

Paid the remaining sum of $450 for the trailing arm, front knuckle and other miscellaneous charges. Also found that my left front rotor was distorted in the crash and had it replaced with a stock one. Wanted an upgrade but was reminded whether my wallet was fat enough to take the final blow, so decided to stick with stock - at $10 for a rotor. Spent a total of $955 for this whole repair. The only upgrades that came out of this are the lowered chassis and a lower rear stabilizer bar.

Big holes in my pockets now. I am leaving re-painting until at a later date.

Regarding the caliper upgrade, the numbers on my current front calipers are 16 (some letters) 14. Are the GSR calipers 17 and 14?