GSR Swap wont rev past 4k, tried alot of things.. help please

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The iacv works at running temp. Not a cold start. Try it like I stated. Make sure fan turns on and such.
 
Ok then what works at a cold start? Skunk2 manifold, only thing i see is a iacv. no fitv.. i was under the impression iacv works for cold+warm starts.. i'm assuming i'm wrong/confused. Also the car won't idle long enough for it to get to operating temp.
 
try adjusting your fast idle an see if u can get it to smooth out your idle to get it to temp

He couldn't because car dies out within the same minute. You should pay someone to lend u their stock gsr ecu and see what happens. but your iacv shouldn't be making any noises especially a whistling noise
 
ok will do. a new symptom has arrived, its been there but now starting to pay attention to it. when the car starts up and chokes down a loud hissing noise comes up, its very loud. but when the car fails to start its not there.
 
What you should do that can help me out is have someone with you and video record it everything so i can hear and see everything that is going on and put it on youtube.com....that will help a lot more
 
i have this same problem in my 91 crx. hf. it wont rev past 3k once the car shows it is up to temp. i believe it has the pw0 ecu and looks like it has a 2 step. BUT this problem occurs in every gear while driving. any way a 2 step can go bad and cause this. what do i do?
 
- Oil Pressure Can Be Low
- Bad Distributor
- Bad Ecu( Get the stock Ecu for the motor to see how it responds )
- TPS Sensor
- Disconnect the Cat and Turn it on, See If it passes the RPM that is causing it to limp
 
my current problem is basically limp mode. no codes right now.
is not revving above around 3500, and if you rev it dies out. does not sound right. it is like it is stumbling when running. idle sounds okay, but not normal.

have changed plugs and wires, tried another coil, a whole different distributor, and had the chip in the ecu checked. the car has been running fine for the past 6 months since the last time i had trouble, which turned out to be a leaking fpr. and fine before that for 3 months or so. i know it is not something wired wrong, or not wired up. tried pulling injector plugs and there doesn't seem to be a bad injector. but there is an exhaust leak, and the car is running so rich that it burned our eyes while trying to test them.

the last work done on the car by me was oil change a few weeks ago. also had some exhaust work done right after that, and they put in a new o2 bung, it is still intact and wired up.

replaced map and tps, map made it a hair better, and tps was worse. my tps is good. checked wire connections, and vaccuum lines. have not found anything loose or missing.

if anyone has any advice please help me out, car is 93 eg8 with chipped p28, yes just got chip checked and reburned. no difference.. no idea where to turn, MAYBE bad ecu? doubt it though, but anyone with advice please help.

and YES i've searched, but all the threads i've found have NO answers.. thanks!
" A whole different distributor " New or Used??
if it was used... did you make sure that is was working properly in the old motor it was on.
Where does your Vtec Engage at since your P28 is chipped?
 
and are you sure that your CHECK ENGINE LIGHT isn't on...... or is it the bulb burnt out?

Also reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery for 1 or 2 minutes and connect it back so u can turn it back on.....
if it isnt your Distributor or ecu, it could be a bad Oil pump and the motor isnt letting it rev pass 4K due to Vtec
 
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Lol, would be funny if it was a ground or something stupid...he just never wanted to comment back because of embarrassment...
 
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