IAB's in stock H22 manifold

[ReDLiNe_9700K]

i was wondering if its possible to totally remove the iab's out of my stock h22 manifold, manily because i dont think the iab control box is even hooked up on my motor and also, the ecu that i have dosent even have the iab controlls in it, so their pretty much useless to me. i noticed that the manifold is split into 3 different sections. the top half, the iab's, and then the bottom half........what i was going to do was eliminate the middle portion and just run the top half and the bottom half on the manifold. is this possible???

 

[irhavok]

Originally posted by ReDLiNe_9700K@Sep 12 2005, 10:19 PM
i was wondering if its possible to totally remove the iab's out of my stock h22 manifold, manily because i dont think the iab control box is even hooked up on my motor and also, the ecu that i have dosent even have the iab controlls in it, so their pretty much useless to me. i noticed that the manifold is split into 3 different sections. the top half, the iab's, and then the bottom half........what i was going to do was eliminate the middle portion and just run the top half and the bottom half on the manifold. is this possible???

[post=553451]Quoted post[/post]​

Yes

 

[tab]

yes.

I'd leave them there, and get them working, but you don't have to. It depends on your purpose for this car.

Daily driver: Keep them. The IAB enhances low end torque, and makes daily driving more enjoyable. It is noticeable. My car came with the black box broken, so mine were disabled for about a year. I replaced the black box, and I was happy that I did.

Race/Turbo/Topend: Not really necessary. They open up at 4800 rpms anyway. I'd say your IAB increase would be from 2k-4800 if you keep them.

You can also run a vacuum line from your intake to the IAB control diaphragm. It works, but this is how I ran for a year, and you know how I feel.

 

[sihatchback_RL]

leave them if it is stock, or get a JDM type s or Skunk2

 

[nismogod]

tab, can you explain that a little more? i mean the proceedure of getting them to work? cause like the other guy, my ECU doens't recognize them.

 

[irhavok]

Originally posted by nismogod@Sep 13 2005, 07:09 PM
tab, can you explain that a little more? i mean the proceedure of getting them to work? cause like the other guy, my ECU doens't recognize them.

[post=553960]Quoted post[/post]​

If your ecu doesnt control then you have a few options....

Have your ecu setup to control them (i didnt think this was possible untill i was reciently proven wrong hoever i dont have the site url that does it.. I can find it if necessary)

Get a p13 or p72

Get a MSD (or the like) RPM activated swtich.

Get an intake manifold that doesnt have them.

 

[ReDLiNe_9700K]

today i entirely removed the whole IAB assembly (butterflys and control box) from my intake manifold, so all thats there is the plate with no butterflys. but how much exactly am i loosing without them being hooked up. i cant imagine these things making that much of a difference ....i mean think about it..... their actauly restricting HP for the first 4500 rpm's so how much am i really loosing??

the ecu that i originally had, utilized the iab controll but they were never hooked properly so i just left it at that. my friend has his hooked up but to be honest with you i dont really feel a difference other then the fact it sounds like hes got 3 stage VTEC. thats about it. of the line we run side to side.

 

[tab]

Ok, with a stick, I don't know if I'd notice that much difference. Think about it. You don't launch at idle, and you're gearing is much shorter. However, I do notice a bit more power down low in my automatic, which basically takes off at 1-2k. Give me a stick and I'll make your civic lauch with one chirp and a grin.

It is noticeable, but it's not a turbo. It reroutes the air pattern to enhance lowend torque. Longer intake runners make more top end hp, shorter runners make more low end torque. The IAB gives you the BEST of both. You don't need it, and it won't kick a code.

To wire the IAB, there are two wires. I believe one is hot with the key(black yellow), and the other goes to the ECU which provides the ground. That clicks the solenoid which uses the stored vacuum in the black box to open the secondary butterflies in your intake manifold.

 

[dohcvtec_accord]

FYI, you don't need the black box to be able to utilize the butterflies. Mine came broken too, so I just hooked the vacuum line directly to one of the nipples of the manifold.

 

[sihatchback_RL]

WERD with dohcvtec_accord.......still just get another manifold like i said, skunk2 or JDM type s

 

[nismogod]

skunk2 mani wont fit in an EG hatch with h22. well, not without some real work.

 

[irhavok]

Originally posted by nismogod@Sep 14 2005, 04:57 PM
skunk2 mani wont fit in an EG hatch with h22. well, not without some real work.

[post=554575]Quoted post[/post]​

Sure it will, All you have to do is get a hard line bender which is cheap from autozone. and reloate a few of the things on the firewall.

 

[sihatchback_RL]

skunk2 mani wont fit in an EG hatch with h22. well, not without some real work.

[post=554575]Quoted post[/post]​

nothing is impossible, done this manifold swap in numerous eg's.....easy

 

[tab]

Chris, I did the IAB without the black box. It's much better utilizing the box and solenoid.

 

[dohcvtec_accord]

I imagine it is. We tried a couple of times to fix the box, and it never worked. I didn't care enough to try to get it working correctly.