the starter portion of the alarm stores the RPM value so if the car is started with the remote, and is rev'd over a certain RPM it shuts the car off.
mmm new mirage sextoys.
- Thread starter TurboMirage
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okay, buttoned up and put away.
re-taped everything and double checked my soldering. everything was still good. tossing no codes.
hooray for success! tomorrow ima flash it to 1.49 see if i can get the LC1 back.
re-taped everything and double checked my soldering. everything was still good. tossing no codes.
hooray for success! tomorrow ima flash it to 1.49 see if i can get the LC1 back.
well the tach and emanage are now working 100%. had issues with the RPM wire. hooked both to the CPS and voila!
fresh wash and wax
fresh wash and wax
yeah i have that episode saved 
soon! maybe sooner than you think.
soon! maybe sooner than you think.
from the HONE meet. washed/waxed and every reachable surface in the engine bay armor-alled.
efhondakid
My name is Byron.
Looks good.
today from hot-o-cross LOL
first ever set of 1.5 intake and exhaust manifold flanges. now i can make an equal length turbo manifold and a SMIM.
fap fap fap fap
fap fap fap fap
started on my new swaybar bracketry.
going to make brackets off the frame rail using 2x2 square tube. probably overkill since im welding to the frame but oh well. after working out some measurements with a ruler, i've found im going to make the brackets 9.5 inches long and add on an extra inch outward toward the bar to fill the gap. i have some things i have to move a bit first though, and the new headerback (catless) will go on next week so i can finish the drivers side bracket.
the plan:
once the brackets are up and welded into place im going to weld the grade 8 nuts to the inside of the square tube. hooray!
started making the little brackets.
LOVE having a drill press.
bolted up.
tacked things down a bit.
going to make brackets off the frame rail using 2x2 square tube. probably overkill since im welding to the frame
but oh well. after working out some measurements with a ruler, i've found im going to make the brackets 9.5 inches long and add on an extra inch outward toward the bar to fill the gap. i have some things i have to move a bit first though, and the new headerback (catless) will go on next week so i can finish the drivers side bracket.the plan:
once the brackets are up and welded into place im going to weld the grade 8 nuts to the inside of the square tube. hooray!
started making the little brackets.
LOVE having a drill press.
bolted up.
tacked things down a bit.
these too
here we go. take off your header and clean it up. drill a hole that is big enough to fit the sensor through the bung and sit flat.
now i used a threaded bolt (or the bung bolt when the sensor isnt in) to keep the bung from warping. secure it all with a c-clamp and then weld away.
now go one step further and cover it in high-temp paint.
now i used a threaded bolt (or the bung bolt when the sensor isnt in) to keep the bung from warping. secure it all with a c-clamp and then weld away.
now go one step further and cover it in high-temp paint.
e5 colormatched spoiler with custom m3 lip 
nice pedo bear
word!
finished the other side finally. here are the results!
my welds are pretty nice for no gas.
the brackets are a few inches too long. going to have to cut them down after cutting the metal plate to match the frame. then weld the plate to each bracket and bolt it to the car.
yes they are two different colors
my welds are pretty nice for no gas.
the brackets are a few inches too long. going to have to cut them down after cutting the metal plate to match the frame. then weld the plate to each bracket and bolt it to the car.
yes they are two different colors
one bracket complete...
full headerback put on, 2.5in, 28in long resonator with a flowmaster 44 muffler.
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