My Goal is 350-400 whp on a jdm gs-r block

[Turbo&Auto]

A few things can determine the comp. ratio. When you rebuild the motor you'll be asked which comp. ratio piston/rings you want. That's the time to decide on a #.

You can also lower the comp. ratio by going to a thicker head gasket. OR even by going with a 1.8l bottom end and a 2.0l head. Something like that, I'm not too familiar with the different honda motors. BUT that's the basic idea.

 

[JDMBurna]

ok i see.any idea what compression i should go for if i want that setup with the turbo? ?

 

[Turbo&Auto]

8:1, 8.5:1 or 8.8:1. Again, I'm not a big Honda guy so I dont know exactly what's available for each motor. But enything under 9:1 will be fine for turbo and high boost.

 

[get_nick]

Quoted post[/post]]
A few things can determine the comp. ratio. When you rebuild the motor you'll be asked which comp. ratio piston/rings you want. That's the time to decide on a #.

You can also lower the comp. ratio by going to a thicker head gasket. OR even by going with a 1.8l bottom end and a 2.0l head. Something like that, I'm not too familiar with the different honda motors. BUT that's the basic idea.

first off, 2.0 honda heads suck. crv's are not made to rev high. they are made for torque. unless you add the turbo the same time as you do all of the internals you will lose power. compression makes more power for your car. that's why the higher compression type r motor makes more hp and tq than say the gsr. but don't go thinking you can put a turbo on a type r because the compression is to high to run enough boost to get you up to that amount of power you are looking for. and it is a waste of money to buy a type r motor just to pull it apart and replace everything.

low compression will allow you to boost more. say you can boost 10 pounds on a stock gsr block. if you get 10 hp per pound of boost, you will add 100 hp. so if you dyno stock at 140 the the wheels, then you can assume you are at 240 hp. if you build the block to hold 20 pounds, you will add 200 hp to a motor that puts down say 120 na. so you will be at 320 hp.

as for your transmission. an ls tranny will be fine if you are going to boost it. the long gears will keep you in peak hp for a longer time. not my first choice but it will do if you are tight on money. if you are buying a complete swap, just keep the gsr tranny. it is a good tranny.

lower the comp and you can boost more. but... the motor is going to put down less hp until it is boosted. so don't lower the comp until you have your stuff together and ready to go. or at least if you don't have another car to drive. keep your gsr tranny until you can afford an lsd.

 

[posol]

sleeves:
Don't go more than 84mm. otherwise they just get too thin, and you end up being no stronger than stock sleeves.
That said, some of the most power honda motors out there are 81.5 sleeved blocks.

pistons/rods:
just about anything forged will work. Crower, manley, or pauter rods; CP, wiseco pistons, 9-0.5:1 compression. don't go to 8. too damn low, especially for a street car. your off-boost response will be lame, and your spool time will suffer.

headwork/cams: you can easily hit 350 whp on a stock head. gsr cams are great for boost. i'd worry about this last if you have extra money left. focus on your fuel system and bottom end.

tuning: aem is great, but pricey. hondata s300 is pretty cool, but not too many people are tuning it yet, as its fairly new. hondata s200 is outdated. if you're going to go the chipping route, crome pro is where its at. Either choice will be more than enough to give you a good soild safe tune.

IM: go with a JG/Edlebrock. much better suited to boost than the skunk2.

Bristol: a lot of us are from CT. Hot import nights is lame. don't bring your car there if you go, you have a 1:4 chance of it getting stolen.

with a GT35R, you'll be on your way to 400 whp on pump 93 no problem.... with the right tuning.

you're up in mass, and not too far from us down here in ct, so there's access to some good tuners.

 

[JDMBurna]

that all sounds good, thanks for the advice. about the ls tranny, i already have the jdm gsr tranny. is that better or is there something special about that ls? ide rather not spend more money to buy a different tranny anyway so im hoping the gsr tranny is good. i got the gsr axles too and everything else, (ecu main harness etc.)
yea its not my car going to HIN anyway its my girls brothers. i will let him know though. i just wanna go check out the skylines cause ive never seen a real one in person.
i am going to order the internals for the motor soon. and then get the turbo after that, i think im gonna go with the kteller garrett turbo kit for 2,800$. has anyone had any experience with this? the more powerthe better so if theres another turbo kit for slightly more but worth it please let me know. i want to be ready to go for the summer and then maybe drop a nos kit in toward the end of summer/fall

this is the turbo im thinking of going with http://www.kteller.com/store/product_info....roducts_id/1304

any input? everything seems cool and it comes with EVERYTHING> will i get the power im looking for out of this? they say the hatch in the pic has 402 whp but doesnt really say what mods it has other than the turbo.and its saying ill get the 3 inch piping kit for 200$ more, do you think that includes the entire exhaughst system or is it just the downpipe there talking about?

 

[get_nick]

keep the gsr tranny

you won't be able to use the harness. it's made for right hand drive.

once you get the turbo kit on and built you will realize that 400 hp is excessive. just because you have a lot of power doesn't mean you will be fast. you have to put money into stuff like limited slip, and suspension work. i have personally seen cars with over 375 hp get beaten by cars with a good driver that only have 250 hp. driver skill helps and you need that. you would be more than happy with 225. anything more than that is a safety issue for a beginner.

 

[SlushboxTeggy]

Quoted post[/post]]
reliable is all bassed on the tune itself. but you have to get it sleeved to get a 84mm. 700 is alttle expensive for pistons,i think you could get a set for 500 for cp's, wisecos or somthing like that. stock bore is plenty. hotrex on here just did 390whp on stock sleeves and bore with a b16.

but he did have the block filled and had forged internals, dont forget that. he also new how to build a honda engine andpiece together a sweet kit rather than just buy one.

Quoted post[/post]]
Go with what Pissedoffsol said.

My preference:
Wiseco 9.5:1 pistons
Eagle I-beam rods
OEM Honda gaskets, seals, and bearings
ARP head studs (you have to buy new head studs anyway, might as well upgrade)

yup

 

[JDMBurna]

yea about the brakes... do i need a big brake conversion? or can i just go with the brembo drilled slotted rotors? and possibly some performance calipers? what kinda suspension? do i need reinforcement or just some performance shocks and struts? or do i need control arm and tie rod upgrades? or everything?

 

[SlushboxTeggy]

everything would be the easy answer. but you will need alot of it even if you decide you dont want it all.

 

[reikoshea]

i thought hotrexs car was a GSR. If it was a B16 his dyno just got a WHOLE LOT more impressive.

 

[SlushboxTeggy]

Quoted post[/post]]
i thought hotrexs car was a GSR. If it was a B16 his dyno just got a WHOLE LOT more impressive.

it was a gsr, but he put a b16 in it. not sure if he blew the gsr or bought a shell, but definitly a b16 in a gsr.

 

[reikoshea]

now those numbers make since. a gt35r at 21psi making only 400HP on a GSR didnt click with me. now its all comming together