My set up TECHS HELP

[JDMPlaya]

First off i have a question about 2 engines that im deciding on.. the motor is going to be turbo'd

d16z6..worth the work of putting into an HF?
ZC.. worth to customize the z6 turbo kit to fit th z6 engine?

does the vtec make any difference when you have a turbo? would it be off to go with a non vtec? which engine would benefit me in the long run? more HP/TQ after the kit is installed? more turbo friendly basically..

than here is my set up..

D16z6 or ZC
Apexi turbo kit
Dual Chamber BOV
GT intercooler
DSM injectors
Resistor box
walbro 255 pump
Profec-b boost controller

thats what i have now just waiting for the engine..

Now my Q's!

Now on those DSM injectos can someone direct me to directs on using these with my set up?

Can I have A/C & P/S in an HF?

If i do go with a z6 is there a less complicated wiring guide to wire vtec?

a turbo cam.. good results on HP?

I dont have any guages yet, what gauges SHOULD i have?

Same with electronics, controllers, ect.. suggestions?

What tranny is the best for d-series? price? web site?

and the last question.. anyone used ZDYNE ecu's for their turbo ? if not what do you reccomend i use for my ecu


thanks for reading !! help greatly appreciated!!

 

[posol]

well, both motors are pretty good.
IMO, I'd go for the z6 for the simple fact that they are cheaper, and there's more parts availble for them.

zdyne is great... but if you are going to put a z6 in your car, i'd highly suggest you convert over to obd1.

using a/c p/s and such depends on the manifold design, and size/placement of the turbo itself. some work, some don't.

wiring VTEC isn't hard man. its 4 wires. we can get more details into that after if you deceide to go that way.

as for a turbo cam- i say boost it first. then, deal with the cams/head work and stuff. once boosted, boost is free (for the most part) run 1 more psi, or spend $500 on cams, ya know?

dsm injectors go into the stock rail with minor shaving. i don't have a link. someone else here can probably help you with that.
your car should already have a resistor box in it.
gauges-

oil perssure, egt, and boost are the 3 im running.
I have a/f on my turbo timer, so i chose not to get a gauge for that... plus, im not running a wideband o2, so the reading is kinda bogus anyway.

since you own a 4th gen, the crx Si tranny is probably your best option as far as gearing/strength is concerned.

 

[JDMPlaya]

hey thanks alot for the feedback

know where is a good place i can find that z6? i can find zcs but not z6

so after i goto obd 1 then what ecu?

so the z6 will basically bolt up?

 

[radnulb]

Many things:

1. Zdynes are old, outdated units. They have shitty customer support. They do not have datalogging. They are no longer being updated. They are overpriced, and an overall waste of money. Total waste IMHO.

2. Converting to OBD1 is no joke. Think hard before you do it. You need to make sure your distributor matches the ECU, so OBD1 ZC will probably mean a new distributor. OBD0 Z6, likewise. As for OBD1 ECUs, any non-vtec ECU (P05*,P06,P74,P75) will run a ZC *IF CHIPPED*. OBD1 P28 ECUs are native to the Z6 motor, and P30/P72 will work if appropriately chipped. Currently, the ECU solutions available for OBD0 ECUs are not up to par with those available on OBD1. Ghettodyne and Turboedit both can support boost (via the same buggy ROM) for OBD0. On OBD1, you have a choice between Hondata, Uberdata and Crome - all of which are considerably more polished for boost.

3. Hondata, as a commercial product, will give you considerably more of a polished solution, for a price. Uberdata and Crome are both DIY-oriented boost solutions, and will not incurr any cost to you aside from the hardware needed to run them(which you'd need anyways for a hondata). Uberdata currently has some features Crome lacks that imporve drivability, such as cold start and TPS tip in correction. A lot of people like Crome's interface better. For the most part, ROMs will be able to be edited in both editors. see www.pgmfi.org forum/software for information on Ghettodyne, Turboedit, Crome, Uberdata.

4. On your topic of motors - ZCs may be easier for you to find, but apparently the supply of quality ZCs from Japan is starting to slow down. Be sure to check leakdown/compression numbers before you buy. ZCs are a great motor from the factory for a turbo - appropriate compression, nice combustion chamber design, DOHC. On the other hand, Z6s are plentiful in the US, so it will probably be easier to find one in good shape than a ZC(it is here at least.) Z6s flow pretty well for a SOHC, have a bottom end that is not-too-shabby in terms of strength, and come from the factory with a cam that is fairly forced induction friendly. Z6s vs ZC on a technical level is not a debate I want to touch - the two motors are close enough I couldn't reccommend either on this basis. The deciding factor should be which motor you can obtain in GOOD CONDITION cheaper, in my opinion. Also consider that there were very very very few OBD1 ZCs made, and no OBD0 Z6s so the motor you get may shape your decision as to whether to convert to OBD1 or not.

5. You may also want to consider the D16Y8, which came in the 99-00 Civic Ex I believe. Its a more modern version of the Z6 with an improved cam. Additionally, the distributor bolts to the motor differently which makes it easier to use an OBD0 distributor on a Y8 than Z6. Both Z6/Y8 will more or less bolt up, change drivers side mount for the one from your HF.

6. Be mindful of your transmission. You can't use hydro (92+) transmissions in a cable car (4G civic / 2G CRX) w/o some rigging. The HF transmission you currently have will SUCK for any of the motors you are looking at. A JDM ZC, ZC/Si hybrid or 88-91 Si transmission would be best. Additionally, you need to watch out for clutches. 88 and 89 year motors (88-89 HF, 88-89 Z6, 88-89 ZC) have a 200mm clutch disc and a correspondingly sized flywheel. 90+ motors (90-91 ZC, Si, Z6, Y8) have a 212mm clutch and corresponding size flywheel. Also, the 88 model years are an oddball, having 20 instead of 21 splines on the transmission. What this means in simple terms:
-Get a 212mm (90+) clutch disc - it is a marked improvement
-if you have a 90+ motor and a 21 spline tranny (90+) get a 90-99 civic clutch
-if you have a 89 motor, get a 90+ clutch and a 90 flywheel so it will work
-if you have a 88 transmission, get a 90 flywheel and a (?) 89 prelude clutch (20 spline, 212mm - benefits of larger disc, still works with 20 spline tranny)

Hope that helps.
-Dave