MYbuddys ZC Motor going DUMB!

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Bart

Junior Member
:huh: Hey Yall
ok listen my buddy just bought a Honda Civic Si with a ZC Motor...
ITs weird cuz he drove it for a month stright without problems and yah theres a problem....
he was driving down the 401 and it turned off
so he try'd to start it and it just wouldn't so after getting it towed for 150$ :lol: he took it to Honda too see withs wrong with it they tested it...
he ended up paying 71.55$ for nothing... all inspections...
Can someone please help me out!!
its stalls every couple of weeks usually after driving long or pushing it hard..
it has a D16ZC motor.
-The idle fluctuates in the morning unable to duplicate fault..
the y inspected the
-plus
-cap
-rotor
-and coil.
All appeared to be in good condition and are all properly working.
they cleaned the throttle body
they said the idle valve not hooked up to cooling system , causing fluctuating idle (throttle playe does not close all the way?)

right upper ball joint worn
shifter rob worn out and loose..
right inner cv boot split open...
both rad hoses cracked.
both axle seals leaking
seatbelt buckle recall parts ordered
________________________________________________________

All for a price of $$82.28 out the door lol its gay...
ight so what do you all think??
PLEASE HELP ME
email me @ littleshorty4life@hotmail.com
and tell me whats the problem...
 
D16ZC??? is it a ZC or D16z6? big difference in motors. the ZC is a DOHC non-VTEC motor and the D16z6 is a SOHC VTEC motor but both are 1.6L motors.
 
Its a DOHC ZC motor
i'm not the good with knowin' about honda's
 
i had my ignition relay replaced, it cost me around 250 bucks with labor and parts and everything
 
The main relay is something like $70, it's not hard to change, you could probably use a haynes or chilton to do it. It's located underneath the dash, just get the new one and search around for it because I left my helms at my godfather's house. And if the idle controller is not hooked up properly, the car won't idle properly. So hook it up!
 
THANKS ALOT YALL...

i think i'm gonna go pull the relay out of the local scrap yard....
lol for free lol hahahah
THANKS YALL :worthy:
and one more thing! for the person who said some thing bout : the idle control thingy

"And if the idle controller is not hooked up properly, the car won't idle properly.." why does the car idle fine when cold till it is pushed hard or driven in on the 401 hard.... for a hour!
explain!
 
Your ECU has a preprogrammed fuel map for warm up, so until your engine hits a certain temp (I don't remember what), your car is not running with a variable fuel map. Don't rely on the gauge, because once it gets up into the arc, it still has a few minutes to go before it is actually warmed up. Best way to know is that once the fan kicks on, the car is at operating temperature. The car also has a fast/cold idle, and a normal/warm idle. Below that certain temp, your car runs at a higher idle (normally something like 1500), which is why when your car is cold it seems as if it is idling normally. Once the car warms up, the ECU allows the idle to fall to what SHOULD be around 750 rpms. But with a broken/misconnected idle controller, a leaky throttle body/intake manifold, or misadjusted idle, the engine will not be at 750 rpms, but instead choking itself out and dying.
 
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