New Break In Method?

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Originally posted by tomtom@Feb 5 2003, 10:08 PM
dam guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
sorry to tell all yal this but i work at a dodge dealer for 2years, ford dealer for about 1 1/2 year and we do all the pdi (predelivery vechile inspection) guest what we don t check shit cause if something does break its under warranty
anyways we get the cars and trucks with1-5 miles on it and we drive the shit out of them
my friends at toyota and honda say the same

why u think the fast cars only get test driven by shop formens(they know we don t check them all we do drive the shit out of them)

i got to drive a new dodge viper befor (in circles in the parking lot with the service manager watching out the window)lol
the fastest car i drove off the lot is a lighten and v12 mercedes (i only got to drive them because they failed smog and i toke it out to warm it up)
belive me they were really warm after wards :D
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of course new cars arent tested at the dealerships if they were every car would have an oddometer reading or more then around 0.0 they test cars at the factories

also when someone builds an engine for their race car (say a tuned 383 chevy stroker) they drive it hard as soon as its in their car. you dont hear about racers taking it easy to "break in the motor" they go hard or are sent home. an F1 or CART cars motor is rebuilt after everyrace they dont go easy on it for the first few thousand miles cuz if they did they would never run at 200+ mph at race time.

id bet this would work but like all things you can go too far. babying will get you under powered but redlining for the first 1000 miles will prolly give you a good start at voiding any warrenty u recieved.
 
Originally posted by [spoon
,Apr 11 2003, 10:47 PM] of course new cars arent tested at the dealerships if they were every car would have an oddometer reading or more then around 0.0 they test cars at the factories

also when someone builds an engine for their race car (say a tuned 383 chevy stroker) they drive it hard as soon as its in their car. you dont hear about racers taking it easy to "break in the motor" they go hard or are sent home. an F1 or CART cars motor is rebuilt after everyrace they dont go easy on it for the first few thousand miles cuz if they did they would never run at 200+ mph at race time.

id bet this would work but like all things you can go too far. babying will get you under powered but redlining for the first 1000 miles will prolly give you a good start at voiding any warrenty u recieved.
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Ok, a few things to keep in mind here

1. Race engines and street engines are built with completely different materials and setups, requiring different breakins
2. Race engines don't have to last past the race that they were used in- so longevity is not an issue, and harsh breakin is less of a problem
3. Why is everyone talking about a "383 Chevy stroker" all of a sudden? Is it just me?

:blink:
 
B/c everyone thinks the 383 is a "race" motor. Hello and welcome to hot rods, they are used in the streets more than a race car.. Most drag racers are using either 400's bored to 406 or big blocks. Nascar and other oval type racers use 377's in their chevy's. Its a destroker.
 
Originally posted by Domeskilla@Apr 12 2003, 03:08 AM
B/c everyone thinks the 383 is a "race" motor. Hello and welcome to hot rods, they are used in the streets more than a race car.. Most drag racers are using either 400's bored to 406 or big blocks. Nascar and other oval type racers use 377's in their chevy's. Its a destroker.
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No, I was talking more about the thread where the guy was asking about stroking B blocks and getting more power... something like that, and he keeps talking about the 383 setup to prove his lack of understanding. Whatever. I'm tired and I need to go home. I've been at work since 1:30pm, and it's 4:00am.

I just want to talk to Eric about his results on the break-in method.
 
Here is how I did it:
On the first start I laid down some news paper on the garage floor because it was a little dirty so I could see any leaks. I turned the idle up to 1800-2000 RPM and let it idle up to full operating temp (I let it idle a little while after the water came up to temp to make sure the oil was warm as well). I backed it out of the garage, turned it off, and double checked that all my manifolds were torqued down. Then I started it up again and turned the idle back down to factory. It was really nice to have a car that would idle without bouncing again. I took it for a little drive around town. I did a few, like 4-5, 1/2-3/4 throttle pulls to 5000 RPM in first. After those I added pulls in second, then in third. I didn't have any roads where I could get up to 5000 RPM in fourth so I didn't use the top two gears. As soon as I finished my last third gear pull I went home and changed the oil. I cut the filter open and checked it and the old oil for metal. There was some (not surprising) but not a lot. Then I checked the valve lash, and drove it fairly easily. Not exceeding 5000 RPM for the first 150 miles, and I added another 500 RPM every 150 miles until I got to 8000. Then I changed my oil to synthetic (Red Line), and set the valve lash again. That is where I am now. I have about 1500 miles on the synthetic oil and the engine is running great. I have no leaks, I am not burning any oil. I am getting about 28 MPG in town and 33-35 on the highway. I am going to compression test it next weekend. I would this weekend but there is a programming competetion between the EE department and the CS department that I am in.
 
as far as I was ever concerned or told.

if you break a motor in babying it it's gonna drive like a baby.

If you romp on it it's ready to race.
 
My last motor in my race car break in went like this. Fired it up, and let it warm up for 5 minutes. Drove down the street. Came back checked for leaks. Loaded the car on the trailer. Took it to the dyno. And let it rip to 9k in 2nd and 3rd gear. No problem :D . I was scared as hell the whole time. Build it right and let it rip!
 
if your building a small block chev for streeting and you want torque you build a stroker. a bigblock will give you more power but compare some weights. its called a big block for a reason.

my dad is building an 88iroc convertible, it came with a 305 tpi (tuned port injection) but hes gonna put a 350 tpi in for some extra power. if he were to put in a 383 he skrew the car over cuz the torque would twist the frame (were adding subframe connectors and other things to beef up the frame so the 350 doesnt hurt the frame)
 
Would you guys stop trying to bogart this thread. If you want to talk Chevys, start a thread in anything goes, or better yet, find a Chevy board.
 
If you want to beat the shit out of a motor from the jump. (i.e. racing, motors that are rebuilt frequently) you can go a little looser of the tolerances. As far as the stuff we all have that spends most of the time on the street, my method is the same as far as re-torqing, valve lash ect. As far as the revs goes, I'm somewhere inbetween. I just do some low rev in town driving for a few days or so and then proceed as normal. No problems yet... As far as Honda bikes being relevent, that is where they started. I stopped of at a guys bike shop where I may be doing some wrenching to talk. When I picked up a bike head he was working on, I was surprised to see 1/4 of a SOHC D series head. They were almost identical.
 
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