new jdm h22 hatch

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h22a hatch

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hey guys just joined this forum. I recently bought a 95 civic hatch with an h22a swap. 120k on body and between 85-90k on motor. Everything seems to be in good condition and so far im very happy with it. Guy i bought it from didnt kno jack shit bout cars and when i asked him what all is done to it he said all i kno is its an h22 with a 2 step... Everything that i can notice thats done is intake, full exhaust with no cat, AEM fuel rail, FPR, MSD ignition, and fuel pressure gauge. Im soon going to be removing the valve cover so i can spray it purple and was wondering if there was an easy way to tell if they are aftermarket cams or ne head work done just by removing the valve cover. Also wondering if there is an easy way to tell what size fuel pump is on it?? Im thinking bout spraying it after winter pending how many miles i put on it(just a small 75 shot to make smile) i heard these motors are known for taking massive amounts of nitrous so im thinking a 75 shot will be okay with this amount of miles(assuming compression will b good after winter)
Sorry for the long post and thanks for anyone who takes the time to read this and reply
 
Cams-depend what level it is, you can hear the difference in idle. You can take out the dizzy and check any stamping on the side of the cam.

Head work- you can take out the intake manifold and check the head.

Fuel pump- good luck.
 
thanks for the advice...im pretty sure its all stock the idle doesnt seem lopey at all like it is cammed but i figured since im soon taking the valve cover i would check n see if there are any signs i should be looking for with it off...n the fuel pump has me stumped to if i spray i want to upgrade to a 255 but dont want to buy if its not nesscary..lol..guess ill jus end up spending the extra money
thanks for reading all this and giving me some adivce
anybody else have any other ideas?
and what spraying a 75shot with this much miles on it(assuming compression is good)
 
Unless the H22 has been sleeved I personally would not spray it. The stock FMR sleeves and pistons in the H22 are not known to be the strongest or most durable. But a Sleeved H22 is a very good strong motor.
 
really so u have to sleeve the motor if planning on spraying or going forced induction...thats the complete oppoisite almost of what my one friend told me..he said that stock h22's are known for holding 200 shots of nitrous..guess ill have to save up sum cash money and work on building the motor b4 going with the spray..disapppointing
 
You dont need to but I would not count on the bottom end holding up for to long. The FRM liners as they wear start to cause oil consumption and blow by even a on a stock motor, normal for a H22 with higher miles on it. The H22 is a potent power plant with 2.2L and DOHC Vtec these motors can make big numbers NA or boost if built right. The older fist gen H22 is not FMR lined I believe but could be wrong ans is a semi closed deck block which makes it a pretty strong block without the issues of the FMR H22s. There is no way a stock motor can handle a 200 shot even a 75 shot is pushing the limit a bit IMO. Just boost it, turbo is just about as costly as a correctly setup NO3 system and never needs a refill. Plus you dont need to turn on your turbo for more power it is always there. If its a FMR block sleeve it it you plan to spray or boost.
 
i plan on spraying it eventually i like the idea of driving round all motor then when sum punk comes up jus flicking the switch and having an xtra 75-100hp...i have been researching the h22a and from wat ive found 96 and up are FMR earlier are iron sleeved and much stronger.
Next question is there a way to tell if mine is 95 or earlier without looking at the sleeves since my motor is in my car and currently my dd
 
With some google searching and the VIN off the block you will be able to tell what year car the motor came out of. 96 and up is OBD2. Your car being OBD1 it is most likely a OBD1 H22. The 8th number of the VIN will give you the year it came out of.
 
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