Obd 2 Gsr Solution

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Here is my problem and I appreciate any feedback on the subject. I have a 97 GSR. AEM CAI, DC 4-1 Header, Thermal Axle-back. In the future, ITR cams, cam gears, 3 angle and minor port work, upgraded TB. That is all my plans consist of. I want to have control of VTEC engagement, a/f, redline and timing. I will dyno tune the whole thing now and when the head work is done. What is my best solution. Can I get good tuning witha VAFC and not worry about redline and timing or should I go Hondata. If I go that way what exactly do I need; obd1-obd2 adapter, ecu what? Would getting a adapter and a Skunk2 ecu be simpler and cheaper. I have never seen a chip OBD2 ecu. Can it not be done? Please let me know. I am totally lost with all this stand-alone and OBD stuff and I'm hoping to get a grasp on it with this post. As always value is important, not so much it being cheap.
if you go hondata- you need to get a chipped ecu. having a gsr, this isn't a cheap option. here's the deal. gsr's use iab's for the intake manifold. only a gsr and a prelude p13 ecu has the ability to control these. obd1 gsr and h22 ecus aren't cheap. they are about 300 a pop, if not more.

another option is to go with a skunk2 manifold, which don't have these 2nd aries, and in my opinion, is a better manifold.
if you don't have to worry about these anymore, you can now run a p28, a cheap ecu, and great for hondata. there are plenty of harnesses availble for use to convert the obd1 ec to plug into your obd2 car- skunk2, hondata, hasport, kenji, etc.

i highly recommend the hondata. pills gained .5 second in the 1/4 by switching to hondata N/A in his b16. why? because you can't really tune with a vafc.
That seems like a great route. I really have been wanting to keep the GSR manifold. I know the Skunk2 is a better setup btu I am trying to retain as much low end power as possible and that is what the AIB setup is great for. Some stand alone setups have relays for things like intercooler water sprays, nitrous things like that. Does Hondata have something like that I could use to control the IAB solenoid. It is a really simple setup and it can be easily disconected by disconnecting and plugging the vaccum line. Tadah a single stage manifold. And boy does it kill your low end power. I would love to control that also. What do you think? What am Ireally missing if I just use my stock ecu and raise my fuel pressure and micro tune with a VAFC. I have a very mild setp and I don't want to get the Hondata setup and the only way it makes me go any faster is if I tune for 20 MPG and rid ethe knock threshold. I do not race on the strip and I live in the mountains so low to mid range power is way more important the maximum top end power. 5 hp at 5500 is worth losing 2 at 8500.